Circulating heater install on 1HDT

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Are you sure there is no air in there because then the heater cannot get rid of the heat and will melt itself?
It looks really bad, for a few times now you almost set the truck on fire, was the heater not damaged when slamming it in?
EDIT:IAN and Scuba have problems, I thought it was one car :doh:

I only have a small block heater for a week now (in a HJ60), it has a negative ground connected to wiperbolt, manual insists on using grounded 220V wires and I added 7 liter coolant after install.
Just connected it with a 20m cable and time clock (not at home now, tomorrow morning going to Amsterdam)
Funny feeling like a prius owner carrying cables & timeclock :hillbilly:

At 0 degrees Celsius: (last year @ -18 degrees Celsius without block heater no problems)
-my block heater can be touched without leaving a burn mark, no electric shock (to my surprise) :bounce:
-after 2 hours thermostat is warm, upper hose to radiator is warm, windshield is defrosted, warm (above 0 Celsius) air coming out the vents, when opening hood everything is warm, valve cover is warm/hot.
-rear heater is cold, but warms up soon like it did before.

pictures: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/525082-2h-freeze-plug-block-heater-2.html
 
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The replacement heater is a 1500w unit. These have a thermostat and a check valve. I've been periodically checking the heater to make sure it's in good shape. The cords never get hot. No other anomalies noted. This came as a surprise. Though I never pull the plug off the top of the heater for fear of getting a loose connection.

I'm going to take the failed one over to the manufacturer (Phillips and Temro - right here in Winnipeg) for their evaluation. This thing is CSA approved so should not pose a fire risk. It looks like the rubber plug melted and took the contacts with it, therefore no fire. But the manufacturer should be notified so that they can evaluate.

I run the heater for 2 hours before work, and on/off cycling all day at work with the parking lot timer system.
 
I'm hoping it's a fluke issue as well. My wife's Golf TDI has nearly the same heater on it and it's been running great for over 8 years.
 
got 1500 w unit for one year with no issue, keep it hooked to power source at work for 9 hours Mon to Fri, truck get warm less then one minutes. Am very happy with my unit.

Made a big different on cold night here in Toronto specially when below – 10 deg, my timer comes on at 4 am to 7 am , truck start right away, keep it run under 1-2 minutes then ready to hit the road with warn hot air
 
Scuba, did you ever hear back from Philips temro? Are you still running this unit and have you had any other issues?
 
I never pursued anything with Philips and Temro. The new heater worked well last winter once all the air worked its way out of the system. Definitely mount it as low as possible. Mine is now right beside the frame, but decently protected. With the 1500W heater, My temp gauge goes most of the way up as soon as I turn the key after only an hour and a half on the timer at -20°C. Unfortunately, most of that heat is then lost as I idle along in bumper-to-bumper traffic.
 
Thanks. Mine is going in next week probably so I'll remember your trick of elevating front and running with rad cap off.
 
I've got to do this again as well, I think I'm going with a 1000w model this time, as I had issues last time around with blowing breakers on the plug-ins at my work, and shorting out the block heater extension cord I was using, as it drew too much power.
 
What happens to the flow when the heater control is set to off (valve closed). Does the warm coolant just bypass the valve and go back to the block?
 
Sounds like keeping these 1500 W heaters in top shape is a challenge, any kind of corrosion forming on the contacts can cause those issues of melting heaters. With all that salt on our roads it would be easy to have some get into the electrical connectors. I completed my Webasto heater install and will never go back to an electric block heater again. I have both a programmable timed start and remote control ( trunk release) . The warm starts are infinitely more gentle on the truck. The beauty of the webasto is of course no extension cords and being able to use it anywhere. Here in Ottawa it gets plenty cold but no one offers block heater connections, ( perhaps our parliamentarians have them ). My suggestion to any one contemplating a heater is to get an Esbar or Wabasto, the inline pump also alleviates the convection issues.
 
Radiant heat from the hot block when driving and heat when plugged in tend to keep the connections dry so salt is not such an issue.
Best bet is source the feed from the block drain plug and mount the heater lower than the source, this way you should always have fluid available and cannot run the kettle dry.
 
Squash said:
Best bet is source the feed from the block drain plug and mount the heater lower than the source, this way you should always have fluid available and cannot run the kettle dry.
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I have tapped into the low side of my 12ht, where the vac idle up temp switch is,
and hot goes to a t into the heater lines just before the valve.
Works fine, but I wonder if it interferes with the intended flow of the coolant while driving, since my heater is open when of.
Water to the interior was originally not tapped the way I do it now...

I don't get that much heat from engine, temp does lower when engine at idle, and it only runs at normal temp just before the thermostat opens up.

I have ordered a ir temp reader, so I will investigate further.
 
TLC Norway said:
I have tapped into the low side of my 12ht, where the vac idle up temp switch is,
and hot goes to a t into the heater lines just before the valve.
Works fine, but I wonder if it interferes with the intended flow of the coolant while driving, since my heater is open when of.
Water to the interior was originally not tapped the way I do it now...

I don't get that much heat from engine, temp does lower when engine at idle, and it only runs at normal temp just before the thermostat opens up.

I have ordered a ir temp reader, so I will investigate further.
Click to expand...

Sounds normal to me. I get the same heat performance after installing the circulating heater as I did before. Except now my engine is warm after being plugged in.

When the ambient is below -20C, I put cardboard in front of my rad and I idle up to 1200 when sitting in traffic. The temp gauge still goes down, but not nearly as quickly.

Without the circulating heater, on a -25C morning, my engine would not reach operating temp on my 20 minute commute. With the heater, it's at operating temp when I start it!
 
I'm in need of some advice and help. I have a 1hz with a temro circulating heater installed. I'm not having any success with it though. Currently it is plumbed with the supply from the block drain. The 5/8 hose then curves to the heater inlet approximately 3" below block drain level. The heater sits at frame level. The outlet of the heater uses the Y fitting tied into the feed for the heater cores. This section has 14-18' of vertical before curving down and into the heater cores. The heater valve is bypassed.

When plugging this in I get a very hot riser section and the hot liquid appears to make a sharp turn at the Y and head into the block outlet. The section of hose feeding the Y from the block get hot too. Next I start to get boiling and steaming from the Y. So much so that a steady stream of steam is leaving that fitting. No matter how tight I tighten clamps or what have you. The section of hose entering the heater cores gets warm at best... certainly not hot and it appears no flow is happening there. I will say I have 10 feet or more of hose to get through both cores and back to the block since the truck has the front and rear heaters in series. However this same phenomenon was happening when in stock configuration.

I can't figure out why I'm having no luck with this thing. I've replace the heater once too to see if that was it... No luck though.


I'm getting close to scrapping it altogether and installing a lower rad hose heater.

Any advice? Better location to tie discharge into?
 
arnott1t said:
I'm in need of some advice and help. I have a 1hz with a temro circulating heater installed. I'm not having any success with it though. Currently it is plumbed with the supply from the block drain. The 5/8 hose then curves to the heater inlet approximately 3" below block drain level. The heater sits at frame level. The outlet of the heater uses the Y fitting tied into the feed for the heater cores. This section has 14-18' of vertical before curving down and into the heater cores. The heater valve is bypassed.

When plugging this in I get a very hot riser section and the hot liquid appears to make a sharp turn at the Y and head into the block outlet. The section of hose feeding the Y from the block get hot too. Next I start to get boiling and steaming from the Y. So much so that a steady stream of steam is leaving that fitting. No matter how tight I tighten clamps or what have you. The section of hose entering the heater cores gets warm at best... certainly not hot and it appears no flow is happening there. I will say I have 10 feet or more of hose to get through both cores and back to the block since the truck has the front and rear heaters in series. However this same phenomenon was happening when in stock configuration.

I can't figure out why I'm having no luck with this thing. I've replace the heater once too to see if that was it... No luck though.


I'm getting close to scrapping it altogether and installing a lower rad hose heater.

Any advice? Better location to tie discharge into?
Click to expand...


Could you post pictures of your setup?
 
Needs to be plumbed like this. Mine works great.

1422983859212.webp
 
djsherif said:
Needs to be plumbed like this. Mine works great.
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Mine is seriously just like that.... That's why I'm so confused. It should work and simply doesn't.... I wonder if I'm getting air ingress there when it cools and that block circulation
 
It may take a long time to clear the air out. The water valve is a high point. Keep burping out air and it should eventually work. You could raise the front end for quicker burping.
 
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