Yukon Territory, near where the coldest temperature for North America was recorded.
For about the same cost, adding the double cardan CV joint front driveshaft was a much more worthwhile investment.
Circulating heater install on 1HDT
- Thread starter finderscuba
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For about the same cost, adding the double cardan CV joint front driveshaft was a much more worthwhile investment.
Note: Be sure to switch your controls to Defrost and maximum heat for good circulation.
I just installed a 1500W circulating heater on a 1991 HDJ-81 with 1HD-T. The PO had done an ASCD delete so there was an existing 3/8" hose on the block for me to cut into. I basically tee-ed into that and connected the heater inlet with a 5/8" hose.
For the heater mount I used the hose support bracket connected to the fuel filter support (took it off and drilled the bracket to suit the cheapo heater mounting strap.) Ran the outlet hose into the heater return from the firewall.
Here's a couple pictures... (EDIT: ran circ. heater for 20 mins at -20C and engine then idled right off - BIIIG difference!)
For the heater mount I used the hose support bracket connected to the fuel filter support (took it off and drilled the bracket to suit the cheapo heater mounting strap.) Ran the outlet hose into the heater return from the firewall.
Here's a couple pictures... (EDIT: ran circ. heater for 20 mins at -20C and engine then idled right off - BIIIG difference!)
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FOLLOWUP: The Auxiliary Heater burnt out and I got as new one to replace it. Instructions said not to run the return over the engine block (as I did when I put it into the heater return line). I'm thinking of piping the supply and return into the ACSD connections...
Anyone know if this will work? Or a reason why it wouldn't?
Anyone know if this will work? Or a reason why it wouldn't?
Block drain as supply is best. The kit normally supplies the adapter.
"Y" Ties into the heater hose before your firewall valve.
14mm deep socket removes the block drain, access this easily by removing front tire, skirting and slipping socket with a decent extension between the frame and inner fender.
Sounds complicated, yet I have done this in under 1/2 hrs.
"Y" Ties into the heater hose before your firewall valve.
14mm deep socket removes the block drain, access this easily by removing front tire, skirting and slipping socket with a decent extension between the frame and inner fender.
Sounds complicated, yet I have done this in under 1/2 hrs.
OK thanks, I'll look at the block drain. No kit what thread is the plug?
Going back into the heater hose is where I originally had it but instructions for the circulator says not tp go over the motor which is why I think it burnt out (maybe got airlocked somehow). Thats why I'm proposing going back into the return line of the ACSD.
5/8 adapter for block drain comes with every kit I've ever owned.
Block drain is lower than the ACSD.
This is on my HZJ75, the 1HD-FT and 1hdt are the same.
You can do likewise on the gasser FZ series by removing the PHH and running hose like the diesels.
Block drain is lower than the ACSD.
This is on my HZJ75, the 1HD-FT and 1hdt are the same.
You can do likewise on the gasser FZ series by removing the PHH and running hose like the diesels.
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Ahah! You went into the heater supply line not the return - which should make no friggin' difference. This just supports the view that these heaters are just garbage.
Running these for 40 years!
They work great....mine have run for days on end.
Very nice install
I have read lots of posts on these heaters, and @Squash is the EXPERT!