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Just know that some little piddly s*** is gonna plague you right off the bat anyway :D
He has a nice play ground right behind his house to do short day runs on. Great area to wring out a new build and still be close to home.

Had to work on the daughters 4 runner today, but got a few things done. Got all the connections made for the trans, t case, VSS, low gear and NSS and got it all loomed and secured. Started on the heater lines too. Figured a way to route em, but I just am not sure how to mount em in place so the don't flop around.
Another positive, is that the wiring is basically done. It's ready to crank. All I need now is fluids, fuel and the exhaust.
What about the OEM hose clamps that were used to secure the rear heater hoses? I think I still have mine if you can't find the ones from your rig.
 
It more something to hang hose clamps off of. Because the motor was cheated so rar over the the PS, there is not a whole lot of space for those lines to run, back to the fire wall. I got a couple of 90* elbows from napa and routed them UP, over the head and back down to a 90* that I stubbed through the fire wall. There is one spot off the intake manifold that I can bolt a pair of hose clamps to. Other than that, I can bolt em to the cowling on the motor, or make a bracket off the head.
 
It more something to hang hose clamps off of. Because the motor was cheated so rar over the the PS, there is not a whole lot of space for those lines to run, back to the fire wall. I got a couple of 90* elbows from napa and routed them UP, over the head and back down to a 90* that I stubbed through the fire wall. There is one spot off the intake manifold that I can bolt a pair of hose clamps to. Other than that, I can bolt em to the cowling on the motor, or make a bracket off the head.

It's a bit difficult getting the picture without a picture but maybe you can make come steel piping attached to the engine and connected with hoses?
 
Here's a couple of shots of the trans/ t case loom on the trans, and the heater hose stuff.
I think ideally, Id like the heater lines to have tighter bends and be a little cleaner, but...Im not gonna get all crazy about it either. This black heater hose is cheap and easy to replace when needed.
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Here's a couple of shots of the trans/ t case loom on the trans, and the heater hose stuff.
I think ideally, Id like the heater lines to have tighter bends and be a little cleaner, but...Im not gonna get all crazy about it either. This black heater hose is cheap and easy to replace when needed.

Use steel or copper pipes over the engine and connect with ruber hoses. Conect pipes to the engine with some brackets made from sheet metal:lol::lol::grinpimp:
 
Got the heater lines routed!:bounce::bounce2::bounce:
Found these slick little deals called "uni coils"...what they do is "mold" the hose so you dont have to use elbows. Theyre about 8 bucks a piece, but worth it IMO. Also...got the 3AN fitting to convert my brake hose connections and also got brake lines.:clap:
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FWIW Keith I have not had good luck with plastic coolant hose fittings (barbed fittings). I've had two eventually fail...
 
FWIW Keith I have not had good luck with plastic coolant hose fittings (barbed fittings). I've had two eventually fail...

What did you use instead???
The 90s through the fire wall and the adapter you see in the pic are what I had used. Im NOT hopeful that I can eliminate the connector as that is a reducer (3/4- 5/8)
 
try the hose place at glendale and rock they had silicone heater hose reasonable, and all kinds of fittings .. I second the metal or copper pipe if you can.. but that said I did what you did on the crew cab and just used silicone hose and insulated it where it was near heat... oh and the silicone hose is blue.. for that bling effect.....
 
What did you use instead???
The 90s through the fire wall and the adapter you see in the pic are what I had used. Im NOT hopeful that I can eliminate the connector as that is a reducer (3/4- 5/8)


I ended up sourcing my fittings (brass and stainless), including reducers, from McMaster...couldn't find what I needed locally. But if you are using the plastic coolant fittings...even though the local parts houses sell them for that very application...plan on replacing them down stream. And you know they won't go south in your driveway ;)

They'll be fine to get you going just don't forget about replacing them...based upon my experience with same.
 
I ended up sourcing my fittings (brass and stainless), including reducers, from McMaster...couldn't find what I needed locally. But if you are using the plastic coolant fittings...even though the local parts houses sell them for that very application...plan on replacing them down stream. And you know they won't go south in your driveway ;)

They'll be fine to get you going just don't forget about replacing them...based upon my experience with same.

2x on the plastic conectors, they age fast when getting hot and cold all the time. They get brittle and crack.
 
Good to know. I'll keep an eye on mine. I have two cars with plastic valves. I wonder if the OEM stuff is a different formulation of plastic...

Depends on the formula of the material and the amount of softener that was used to give it the right flexibility. Some deteriarate faster then others.
 
Just checked the band account!!!! OUCH!
So the exhaust is gonna have to wait for a bit....Ive been spending money on this thing like a JUNKIE! holy christ!?!?!?!:eek::eek:
Thank GOD its almost OVER!!!!!
 
You should really consider getting a separate account, sharing an account with an entire "band" can only cause problems...keep it going, lookin good!

:beer:
 
matchan420 said:
You should really consider getting a separate account, sharing an account with an entire "band" can only cause problems...keep it going, lookin good!

:beer:

Aaaaahh... Just saw what you were talkin about w/ the band acct. Lol.
 
waiting for time said:
Carefull with the delay, there is no cruiser rehab center yet.

No worries. Still lots of loose ends to tie up. I'll just keep hammering out the details.
 
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