Cheap tricks: 22r

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Joined
Mar 12, 2007
Threads
29
Messages
297
Location
Highwood, MT
I recently aquired a 1981 Trailblazer, or what's left of it... for $100. It had been tuff trucked and had a banana front housing, but it runs really strong and the entire drivetrain works. It even has some worn 35s.

Before I get to carried away: I already have a nice tricked out '94 waiting for enough garage space to complete a 3RZ swap. It has crawler gears, all the good basic stuff etc.

I have decided to slap this $100 '81 together as cheap as possible for our next trials competition and to use as a tractor on our property. I don't have to much experience with carb trucks and I am looking for cheap tricks to make it run/wheel/crawl better without actually plunking down the coin for gears, dual t-case and such. The front already has a tight limited slip, and I figured on welding the rear and maybe adding a hand throttle. Also thought I would try to get a cheap set of 31s or use my old 33" Swampers to achieve a little more realistic gearing.

Are there any cheap ignition recurve mods or any other cheap tricks to keep her lugging and running good at angles? The total investment limit is under $500...

Any input to achieve wheeling performance without expense is appreciated.:wrench:

:beer::beer::beer: Three beers for the best suggestion!

Wheel On!
 
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See if you can find another rig for $100 that has fuel injection, swap it over. The AISIN carb is good, but no matter what I did with mine, it never did run well on steep inclines.
 
I believe there is something to the length in the tranny/ TC that limits many mods to it.

No matter, it's the 1 piece bellhousing and weaker tranny....skrap it!


Its crossmember or length, or maybe there were two lengths?...something like that.


regardless, you're on the right track with picking such a fabulous body.
 
Not if, but when the stock carb takes a total s***, you should look for a used/cheap holley 350 2 barrel (or Ford 2 barrel, same thing). Since I get accused of pimping my products on Mud, don't get the adapter and float bowl baffle from me.
 
I'd put a 3rz in it when the 22r takes a dump...


October 08, p. 42. Petersen's 4Wheel & off-road. Clampy gets 4 new cylinders and 100 horses...


:clap:
 
Not if, but when the stock carb takes a total ****, you should look for a used/cheap holley 350 2 barrel (or Ford 2 barrel, same thing). Since I get accused of pimping my products on Mud, don't get the adapter and float bowl baffle from me.

So far you are the only one who qualifies for the beer, Jim!

:beer:

I tuned it up and advanced the timing to about 12 BTDC and took it on a little low speed escapade. It sure runs better but now it gets hot after a while. Do you think it is getting hot from the timing advance or just because I was finally crawling and the old radiator is to crusty to cool it while wheeling?

Also this truck has a vacuum pump above the AC compresor that is not being used, what the heck is that?
 
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What kind? I know its comparing apples to ornages but every Cruiser I have evey ownwd I ditched the EGR . Got worse MPG's of course but no ther appant damage. I thought mabe being this is my first 4 banger there maybe another problem that I am not aware of if I pull the EGR related componts. QUOTE=WristPin;3563004]dont take off the EGR. there is no benefit. It will cause long term damage.

Dont confuse the air suction and reed valve system for the EGR.[/QUOTE]
 
dont take off the EGR. there is no benefit. It will cause long term damage.

Dont confuse the air suction and reed valve system for the EGR.

I don't understand why would it cause damage? I am on my 6th 1st gen toyota and none of them till this one have had an EGR. This 82 I completely desmogged. I just made it to Canadian specs which as I said before don't even have an EGR or cat or smog pump. As a matter of fact there are only 5 vacuum lines in total and no Cat required till 87 model year. I just ripped out the whole rats nest and it cleaned up my engine bay and runs a million times better.
 
dont take off the EGR. there is no benefit. It will cause long term damage.

:confused: What kind of damage? All my EGR junk is long gone and still runnin' like a champ.


H8PVMT: Cool find, you need to post a pic. The smaller tires will help gearing. You might find a used Weber or a pair of lower geared 3rd members in the classifieds. $500 budget will be a challenge, but I'm never too proud to dumpster dive either.. ;)
 
It releives heat, and when you have a cooler engine you have a longer lasting engine. hes preached it to me over the phone one thousand times over. So, i mickey moused mine into working while removing the rest of the junk. Pretty happy so far!
 
Do you think it is getting hot from the timing advance or just because I was finally crawling and the old radiator is to crusty to cool it while wheeling?

Probably due to low speeds and old radiator... Any temp issues coming from advanced timing have been at highway speeds under load in my experience.

Also this truck has a vacuum pump above the AC compresor that is not being used, what the heck is that?

Sounds like a smog pump to me???


It releives heat, and when you have a cooler engine you have a longer lasting engine. hes preached it to me over the phone one thousand times over. So, i mickey moused mine into working while removing the rest of the junk. Pretty happy so far!

Eh.. I call BS on this one. Show me hard data to back it. Otherwise I'll run my 200k 22r till it catches on fire and burns to the ground. :grinpimp:
 
Eh.. I call BS on this one. Show me hard data to back it. Otherwise I'll run my 200k 22r till it catches on fire and burns to the ground. :grinpimp:

Long term it would make sense, it is logical to assume that a cooler running motor will last longer. Not to mention achieve better full economy. Besides, i dont really want to run around without my EGR to show you hard data to back it. It would be waste of good scientific ability.:flipoff2:
 
Saying the EGR makes the engine run cooler is really not true. The EGR lowers combustion chamber temperatures, which I believe is how it lowers NOx. Whether this makes the engine run cooler is up for debate. I don't have an EGR on my 2FE, and it doesn't get anywhere close to 195* around town, and only gets this warm on the freeway.

Sure would seem that having a hotter combustion chamber temperature would help improve fuel burn.
 
Oh I am not saying the engine is running cooler because i am desmogged.....I just through in the temps.
Saying the EGR makes the engine run cooler is really not true. The EGR lowers combustion chamber temperatures, which I believe is how it lowers NOx. Whether this makes the engine run cooler is up for debate. I don't have an EGR on my 2FE, and it doesn't get anywhere close to 195* around town, and only gets this warm on the freeway.

Sure would seem that having a hotter combustion chamber temperature would help improve fuel burn.
 
Saying the EGR makes the engine run cooler is really not true. The EGR lowers combustion chamber temperatures, which I believe is how it lowers NOx. Whether this makes the engine run cooler is up for debate. I don't have an EGR on my 2FE, and it doesn't get anywhere close to 195* around town, and only gets this warm on the freeway.

Sure would seem that having a hotter combustion chamber temperature would help improve fuel burn.

Yet, if you 'de-smog' some engines youll see a loss in fuel economy? It is up for debate, but I cannot defend Wristy beyond what he has shared with me. I noticed better fuel economy when I 're-smogged' my truck. It also idle at a lower tempature.
 
i was told the same thing from a mechanic buddy of mine that removing or a nonworking egr valve/system will kill a 22r/22re. and he never told me why so wristy i would also like to know why? not trying to be stupid but i would like to know. also chris i told you this a while ago before i came and helped you with your head gasket. but i could not tell him why so that is why i am asking.
 
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