Center Console
- Thread starter 4Roller
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Interesting... 
I hope it works out well for you! 
I hope it works out well for you! 
Interesting idea, but I wouldn't have used plywood. It will vibrate like crazy and eventually those sheetrock screws are gonna start pulling out.
Haven't seen anybody using a Club since the 80's.
Haven't seen anybody using a Club since the 80's.
- Thread starter
- #4
Its not plywood, and those are not sheetrock screws, they are wood screws. This is just the frame of it, it will be fiberglassed soon. And I have used this wood on my speaker box, and it has not failed me in 2 years, nor has it vibrated loose! 
I didn't mean any offense, but that sure looks like 1/2" CDX to me. I assume you also glued all the joints. The fiberglass will siffen things up for sure.
Looking forward to seeing the final result.
(plywood is one of the worst things to use for speakers, except for dense furniture grade Baltic Birch microlam. MDF is much more acoustically "inert")
Looking forward to seeing the final result.
(plywood is one of the worst things to use for speakers, except for dense furniture grade Baltic Birch microlam. MDF is much more acoustically "inert")
Its not plywood, and those are not sheetrock screws, they are wood screws. This is just the frame of it, it will be fiberglassed soon. And I have used this wood on my speaker box, and it has not failed me in 2 years, nor has it vibrated loose!
What is that wood product if it isn't plywood? Looks like plywood to me. Also, no offense. I'm just curious.
Most plywoods have some voids in them. I see a couple in the cut edges there. For speaker use those voids cause problems sound wise. Baltic birch is void free and the plys are thin and uniform. While MDF is nice and dense and uniform and makes great speaker enclosures, it is not structural strong for use like in a vehicle.
For the center console I'd have used 1/8" baltic birch for shape and form then do the fiberglass over it for strength. The 1/8" baltic birch is thin enough to bend to provide some curves.
The other more likely way I'd do it would be to make a foam block to shape, then fiberglass it and remove the foam. You can take the sheets of foam they use for insulation, layer them up, and carve to shape. First check the insulation foam you have in your area that it is fiberglass resin compatible.
Gives me some ideas. Make a console and cover it with a layer of CF. I'd only do the front of the console as I want to retain the bench seat. I'd integrate a cup holder into it so I don't have to use the upper ones.
For the center console I'd have used 1/8" baltic birch for shape and form then do the fiberglass over it for strength. The 1/8" baltic birch is thin enough to bend to provide some curves.
The other more likely way I'd do it would be to make a foam block to shape, then fiberglass it and remove the foam. You can take the sheets of foam they use for insulation, layer them up, and carve to shape. First check the insulation foam you have in your area that it is fiberglass resin compatible.
Gives me some ideas. Make a console and cover it with a layer of CF. I'd only do the front of the console as I want to retain the bench seat. I'd integrate a cup holder into it so I don't have to use the upper ones.
- Thread starter
- #9
Yeah sorry, it is some time of Plywood I guess, I was in a bad mood that day, I apologize. Anyway, I am going to do some more on it, on my next day off. This by no means is supposed to be an award wining job, I just want it to be functional for what I need. I am going to Raise the stock height of the radio position, add some LED light switches and add a CB in the lower part of the dash. The only fiberglass I am doing is some Fiberbondo. Like I said, Cheap and easy. I added a Arm Cushin from a Crown Vic, and shaved it down to fit nice and snug. I always hated the stock position of the radio, and wanted and larger area, so I decided to cut it out. I have an extra dash in case I screw it up too bad. Also going to add a couple cup holders!
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