CCOT Replica Tank Install for 67 FJ40?

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Hello,

I purchased a '67 that had come with a new CCOT Replica OE tank installed. However, the owner mentioned the filler neck would fill with fuel, and would require waiting for a few minutes between filling because fuel just stays in the filler neck, before gurgling down.

Why is this? I've included a picture of the CCOT tank, with notes showing what has been capped off, and where the 1/2" Hose connects to the filler neck tube to vent I imagine? It seems as if it is not venting properly, causing the filler neck to fill up, before the tank accepts the fuel.

Any help is greatly appreciated. New to Land Cruisers, and New to the Forum! I did search, and could not find anything that could help.

Truck: 1967 FJ40
Engine: 327 Small Block Chevy / 2-Barrel Carb
Fuel Tank: CCOT Replica OE Tank (Metal)

Issue: Tank has multiple connections, which appear to hook-up somewhere? However I believe most of them were for some OE components that went along with the OG 6-cylinder engine. Since I have a SBC, it doesn't appear to need all of the tubes connected? Currently almost all are capped off.

Only hoses connected are as follows: 1. Filler Neck 2. Vent Tube to Filler Neck 3. Main Fuel line to carb. All others 3 on top, one on the side are capped. However the tank seems to not vent properly, which stops fuel from going into the tank smooth. Causing me to have a 1/2 full tank.

2nd issue: The fuel sender appears to be the unit provided from CCOT. When trying to read OHMS it seems to put out 12.2? Couldn't find this OHM reading anywhere, which points to what a OE Early or Later Model sender would read too? Dash has the OE early 67 gauge, which isn't hooked up. How can I get this CCOT tank to read out to a fuel gauge of some sorts?

Thanks for all of the help! Sorry if this is a total noob question!

 

3_puppies

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how about a pic of the fill setup in your rig? the 67 would have the fill going into the top of the tank, not the side.
you could change the fuel guage to match the sender.
 
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Thank you for your response and help! I figured I could run a new gauge. Wasn't sure which one however? '72 & Later?

Here is a few pics of the current setup on my '67. I think the Replica tank from CCOT is for a later model, that actually used all those hookups that I capped off.

So you can see, the tank has three outlets closest to the filler neck that I capped off. Not sure if these needs to breathe or not? The filler neck is hooked up to the OE filler, the owner gave me a galvanized model from Cool Cruisers, new in package. Might help with the angle? Currently the only "vent" is the 1/2" line coming from the mid section, to the filler neck overflow. Is that enough venting for the tank to accept fuel? It just fills up the neck at this time, and takes forever to fill up the tank!



 
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maybe blow through the vent line to make sure it is not clogged.
 
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Blew compressed air through, no luck.

When filling up, I can actually see fuel coming back up the overflow tube, back through the filler neck. I know the tank isn't full however. Any ideas if my hook up, as seen in the pictures I posted is off? Should any of those three lines I capped off be breathing somehow?
 

Bear

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I don't know the internal construction of the CCOT tank, but the OEM later model tanks(under car) have a pivoting flapper just as the fill neck enters the tank. On the new tanks these flappers move and swing easily. If someone has coated the inside of the tank, they can get gummed-up and stay fixed in one position; rust is also another possibility.
The OEM earlier tank such as yours does not come with a flapper, but CCOT may have designed one into their recreation.

Anyway, just a thought.
 
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I don't know the internal construction of the CCOT tank, but the OEM later model tanks(under car) have a pivoting flapper just as the fill neck enters the tank. On the new tanks these flappers move and swing easily. If someone has coated the inside of the tank, they can get gummed-up and stay fixed in one position; rust is also another possibility.
The OEM earlier tank such as yours does not come with a flapper, but CCOT may have designed one into their recreation.

Anyway, just a thought.
Thank you @Bear I appreciate the info!

Yes, I did notice my OEM filler neck didn't have a flapper, however the new galvanized filler neck does. The previous owner gave it to me, but didn't install it because he didn't have a gas cap that fitted. I may utilize this new filler neck, that has the internal flap. Maybe that will reduce fuel from coming back up the filler neck as I am filling her up? I am still concerned about how I have the three pipes capped on top, that was just a guess? Any pro's out there that could lend some advice?!
 
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Have you blown air into the tank through the vent line? Maybe there was an assembly mistake? My 68 is kind of finicky to fill. I have to pull the fuel pump out about an inch or two and use the slowest setting. Mine is the factory tank for reference.
 
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I'm thinking even if your tank vent was plugged (doubtful) that air could still escape the tank through the actual filler neck even as gas is being pumped into the filler neck- - -maybe. One possibility is that the CCOT tank fuel inlet is much smaller that the filler hose I.D., causing fuel to back up. This was exactly the case with my Downey rear fuel cell (because of the thickness of the nylon material at the filler neck), so we have to ream out the filler neck openings to eliminate/reduce the problem. Sometimes merely changing the angle of the gas pump nozzle as you are pumping gas will eliminate fuel back up as well.
 

Living in the Past

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I wondering is that vent tube really a vent tube. With gas in the tank I would blow air thru it and make sure it isn't bubbling. I doubt that fill neck is helping. Original fill neck is a 90 degree turn towards the tank. To me this looks like a PO hack job. Looks like that hose is barely on that fill neck
. I would find the correct tank and fill neck and be done with it. But that's easy for me to say because I have spare tanks for all my 4X series models.

As for a 68 backing up something is wrong. Only issue I have with my 68 is the aftermarket spare tank. Solved that by removing the tank since I don't need the extra capacity. Leaving it there would have rusted on the inside.
 
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I'm thinking even if your tank vent was plugged (doubtful) that air could still escape the tank through the actual filler neck even as gas is being pumped into the filler neck- - -maybe. One possibility is that the CCOT tank fuel inlet is much smaller that the filler hose I.D., causing fuel to back up. This was exactly the case with my Downey rear fuel cell (because of the thickness of the nylon material at the filler neck), so we have to ream out the filler neck openings to eliminate/reduce the problem. Sometimes merely changing the angle of the gas pump nozzle as you are pumping gas will eliminate fuel backup as well.
Thank you guys for guys for the responses!

I am thinking I should run the CCOT Galvanized filler neck, the PO gave me and install a new fill neck that can properly engage over the fill neck, and tank inlet neck. I'll try this, and see what happens! The CCOT Fill neck, has an internal "flap" as well, which I assume could help reduce fuel coming back up the filler neck on fill ups? He gave me the OG tank as well but claimed it was rusty. On initial inspection, however, it looks clean! If the CCOT setup doesn't work? I may go back to stock considering the stock tank has 1 fill neck, 1 overflow vent, 1 fuel line out to carb. Much simpler than this CCOT made for later model rigs!
 

Living in the Past

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Stock the tank fill neck or the fill neck that bolts to the tub have any type of flapper. The tank fill neck is of the top and has a 90 degree turn to the back so no need for a flapper. It is also about two gallons larger. When the bucket seats and center console started the tank got smaller. Only fittings on the tanks that predate the emissions fume recovery tank was the fill, small vent tube next to the fill, outlet to carb which is the one centered on the side and a drain. The side outlet is a threaded fitting. I'm sure your PO cut that fitting off the end of the hose.
 
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Stock the tank fill neck or the fill neck that bolts to the tub have any type of flapper. The tank fill neck is of the top and has a 90 degree turn to the back so no need for a flapper. It is also about two gallons larger. When the bucket seats and center console started the tank got smaller. Only fittings on the tanks that predate the emissions fume recovery tank was the fill, small vent tube next to the fill, an outlet to carb which is the one centered on the side and a drain. The side outlet is a threaded fitting. I'm sure your PO cut that fitting off the end of the hose.
Maybe that is the problem? That the filler neck doesn't have a flap in it, which causes the fuel to come back up the filler neck during refuel? I think I'll try to put the filler neck that has an internal flap inside and see if she can take a full tank without wanting to overflow back through the filler neck. Since like you mentioned, the OE filler neck was designed to work with the almost 90-degree tank neck, and the CCOT filler neck is based off a later model tank, my guess is the angle is off, which might cause the fuel to "bottleneck" during fill-up.

My main question is, are the three vent tubes on top of tank supposed to connected to anything? Or am I safe to have them capped off? I believe on later models these vent lines hooked up to a fuel separator, which led to a charcoal canister? Since I have an early model, with an SBC 327 V8, I don't have any of those parts....
 

Living in the Past

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You don't need to worry about the extra ports. Those were all emissions related. Your stock system is not sealed and has none of that. Your stock gas cap and fill neck that bolts to the tub are vented. If you have a later cap and fill neck that aren't vent it could case vapor lock since your tank could go into a vacuum. Shouldn't effect filling the tank. Only baffle I could see be needed is one that would divert gas away from the vent tube. If I'm seeing this right your vent tube is by the sending unit and should not be a issue. Filling the tank the fewer restrictions the better. The vent tube allows the fumes that are being displaced to excape somewhere other than the fill neck. Baffles and any type of flapper are to restrict the movement of gas while driving.
 
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You don't need to worry about the extra ports. Those were all emissions related. Your stock system is not sealed and has none of that. Your stock gas cap and fill neck that bolts to the tub are vented. If you have a later cap and fill neck that aren't vent it could case vapor lock since your tank could go into a vacuum. Shouldn't effect filling the tank. Only baffle I could see be needed is one that would divert gas away from the vent tube. If I'm seeing this right your vent tube is by the sending unit and should not be a issue. Filling the tank the fewer restrictions the better. The vent tube allows the fumes that are being displaced to excape somewhere other than the fill neck. Baffles and any type of flapper are to restrict the movement of gas while driving.
That makes sense, thank you! I wonder why I see fuel coming back up the vent tube, back into the filler neck when fueling up? What would cause that you think?
 

Living in the Past

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If you have liquid and not fumes coming out that vent opening something not right. If you were filling the tank and the driver's side is lower that vent tube with the pick up close to the sending unit would be in a liquid before the tank is full but not much before unless at a great angle. That is why the vent connection being close to the fill is a good idea as long as it's not getting liquid gas going across the front of the opening. With the angle change of the fill neck with the 73 model it needed to be moved away. I would still blow air thru your vent tube and listen for bubbling. Unless the tank is topped off it should be above the liquid level.
 
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If you have liquid and not fumes coming out that vent opening something not right. If you were filling the tank and the driver's side is lower that vent tube with the pick up close to the sending unit would be in a liquid before the tank is full but not much before unless at a great angle. That is why the vent connection being close to the fill is a good idea as long as it's not getting liquid gas going across the front of the opening. With the angle change of the fill neck with the 73 model, it needed to be moved away. I would still blow air thru your vent tube and listen for bubbling. Unless the tank is topped off it should be above the liquid level.
Thank you. I have fuel essentially back flowing up the filler neck, and recycling through the vent tube on the side of the filler neck/top of the tank. It seems like it is not venting right. I will try to blow some compressed air through the vent tube, and see if I hear bubbling. I am perplexed because the old tank had 1. Filler Neck 2. Vent Tube 3. A line to fuel Tank 4. Fuel Return Line. Seems so simple!

Mine has 1. Filler Neck 2. 3 Vent tubes - I assume to the fuel separator for later model trucks? 4. Vent tube from filler neck to tank 5. Fuel Return 6. Fuel to Carb. Like mentioned before, item #3 vent tubes have been capped off. I wonder if one of them needs to breathe?
 
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Here is a quick diagram showing the old tank, vs. the new CCOT Tank I have. I notated all of the connections available and placed a "green-dot" next to the items I have connected, and a "red" dot to the components capped off. I just want to make sure, what is capped, isn't causing a "breathing" issue with my fuel system, which may be causing the filler neck to overflow during fill up, causing the main inlet pipe to filler neck to recirculate fuel as well. Something is off! My engine is a Small-Block Chevy 350, with a mechanical fuel pump with no return built in. The engine runs great! Just having problems getting the tank to hold a full tank of gas since it overflows immediately upon fill-up. I wonder if any of the lines I have capped, need to be vented somehow, to allow pressure to release?

FJ-Gas-Tank.jpg
 
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