Carburetor disassembly (1 Viewer)

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Ok, I have a second carburetor I can rebuild while I use the one that’s on the cruiser. I’m following pin heads tutorial (finally found it..) and all is going well ish. All of the linkages and screws are removed. But he pulls the top cover off no problem.. mine is stuck so tight you’d think it was made that way! I’m rebuilding the same carburetor he’s rebuilding… am I missing something?? I’m very hesitant to start smacking it around..

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Ok, I have a second carburetor I can rebuild while I use the one that’s on the cruiser. I’m following pin heads tutorial (finally found it..) and all is going well ish. All of the linkages and screws are removed. But he pulls the top cover off no problem.. mine is stuck so tight you’d think it was made that way! I’m rebuilding the same carburetor he’s rebuilding… am I missing something?? I’m very hesitant to start smacking it around..

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if ALL the fasteners are removed for sure ?

i say AGE and TIME have FUSED it on together for sure !

use a wide flat head and just like shucking a oyster , Gental and carefully pry between here and here in a back and forth star pattern if you will


apply only light to moderate pressure in succession in a even way ........
 
REmemeber one important fact

when you do free it up , expect it to POP OFF with some force and pressure , wear saftey glasses

now ;

this is what i do , get a LARGE CLEAR produce bag or other bigger then the carb clear bag and instert carb and put your hands and LARGE flat head inside , seal up end best u can

just like a SCIENCE LAB does in the BOX they use ........

then you can be safe and more important NO LOST parts like a check ball flying across your shop never to be seen again

its all contained in your improvised INERT LAB setting environment............... :D



good luck

matt


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After ensuring all of the screws are removed take a look at some of the flat areas on the main body. Find one or more that has part of the top sticking over it. If need be put a spacer block on it and use it as a base to pry up on the top. You should be able to break the gasket seal free this way without risk of damaging the sealing area.
 
Ok. It’s apart. All the bolts where out. I gently and slowly have it a few taps with a pry tool and a hammer around the carb till it cracked open.
This carb is rough!!! Wow. I may have to start sourcing some internal parts. Most internal screws look rusted and I have to rebuild kits, but it doesn’t have replacement screws. There is also a float rest? Pin heads didn’t have that. I also may be missing a spring in the needle valve (again this differs from pin heads tutorial).

im really new at this. So bear with me.

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@cruiserboy14 They are a perfect fit. The only downside is that shipping makes the per screw price kind of high. If you can order other fasteners at the same time (they have all the correct Cruiser nut & bolt sizes and finishes) then it makes it more reasonable.
 
Does anyone know if it’s possible to find any internal hardware for our carburetors?
 
Slight problem, can I drill this out? Or is this top half now junk? Also this other piece that is supposed to be held in by the broken screw is stuck as well.

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I’ve been rebuilding Landcruiser carbs since 1986, and I’ve NEVER seen that screw break off…ever.

Youve got nothing to lose at this point. Drop the air horn in your dip tank for a few days and maybe the solvent will help break things loose. I do occasionally see power pistons that are frozen, and the dip usually works for freeing them up.

Good luck.
 
I’ve tried to cut a little groove in the screw and soaked it for a few days in pb blaster. Still no budge. Next I think I’m going to soak it in Chem-dip. See what happens. On another note, evapo-rust is amazing! It’s really cleaning up my rusty parts!

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The screws for the throttle plates are M3. There are 2 screws on the high speed plate that are actually M2.5. on the last carb I did, someone accidentally stipped out the high speed shaft and I had to tap those for M3, which actually makes all the plate screws match.
You will need to use an easy out on that screw that held the retainer and it should come out without retapping. You will want to use high grit, like 3000 and polish the piston once you get it out.
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Following this as l’ll be rebuilding one in the near future. The pin heads tutorial are the ones on YouTube?

have you tried screw extractors to take out the broken screw? Has worked well for me in the past.
 
Well one piece came loose after the chem dip!! Thanks @65swb45 I had to work it free but it moved this time! I also tried the left hand drill bit method: no success. I’ll be trying the videos that @avicenna110 recommended next.

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I’ve almost got it fully disassembled and cleaned. Question: does this plunger have a rubber gasket in any of these grooves?

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