Carb Question: Aisin H3662 vs Weber?

[sleepycruiser]

I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV in my ‘64 (I also have two as backups), but my 40 stalls when stopping and I have to give it more gas. Runs ok other than that.

I found an Aisin H3662 somewhat local to me. Would this be a better option for $150? Also, does this look real? I’m not sure about real vs clones.

Anything else to consider if I swapped the Aisin in? I don’t want to have to change a bunch of other parts out.

 

[PTills]

an aftermarket carb. Amazon 89$ bucks. These two I rebuilt and you can see there’s no branding on that carb unlike these by the sight window. If it was cheap or a city racer or troll hole copy I would go for it as a spare if it’s local cheap.

 

[sleepycruiser]

an aftermarket carb. Amazon 89$ bucks. These two I rebuilt and you can see there’s no branding on that carb unlike these by the sight window. If it was cheap or a city racer or troll hole copy I would go for it as a spare if it’s local cheap.

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Ah, thanks. So the one I posted is a clone of some sort. $150 doesn’t seem like a good deal for that then.

 

[charliemeyer007]

So you have fresh gas with fuel dryer. Your fuel filters are new - gas doesn't pass threw paper elements wet with water. Set them in the sun for a few days, they will dry out and be good as new - rotate them often. Does the carb have a built in filter? Yes clean it too. Air filter is clean. Valves and ign timing set correctly.

Your fuel pump is good? Get engine warmed up with a short drive. Shut down engine - disconnect fuel hose inlet to carb. Put hose in coffee can, start engine and watch fuel flow - it can pulse but no long periods of no fuel flow. Weak flow - blow some air in the hose - maybe you got trash in the tank that restricts flow.

Those items are fine - then you need to clean and or adjust the carb. Spray cleaner doesn't much compared to taking the carb apart and using chem dip or a heated ultra sonic cleaner with carb juice.

You can build/buy an electric fuel transfer pump. With a 5 gallon gas can you can bypass your tank and fuel pump and see if it runs better. The pump can also empty you tank so you can pull it and clean it out if needed. My design - switched, fused, filtered 12' power to cig lighter or battery, 5' draft 20' delivery (can be reversed to harvest fuel). Was about $50 a few years ago on Amoron/ebay

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have a Rochester 2BBL that came on my 72 when I got it 82. I worked on it once way back in the 2000's - accelerator pump got bonded to the body. I freed up the leather pump cup, greased it with neat's-foot oil been fine since. Amoron has chinesium copies for less than $100. I might buy one but first I'll try the ultrasonic cleaner and carb juice. The china delco dizzy is working fine with real delco points

 

[RevISK]

I ran a 32/36 on my 40 and when it ran well, it ran great. Mostly struggled with it though.

There are quite a few bits to get to go back to OE style but imo it’s worth it.
I got a City Racer Fuji carb and have since collected a couple Aisin carbs.

I did really like the electric choke that was on the Weber though.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I ran a 32/36 on my 40 and when it ran well, it ran great. Mostly struggled with it though.

There are quite a few bits to get to go back to OE style but imo it’s worth it.
I got a City Racer Fuji carb and have since collected a couple Aisin carbs.

I did really like the electric choke that was on the Weber though.

I’m almost ready to fly someone to my house to do all the stuff. Lol!

 

[brian]

I want to know about that throttle cable adapter on the other side of the linkage setup

 

[sleepycruiser]

Double post

 

[RevISK]

I’m almost ready to fly someone to my house to do all the stuff. Lol!

I’ve got a place to stay there.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I’ve got a place to stay there.

Now you have two places to stay.