Carb Cheater

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I didn't have the time today to go all the way through the video and the website doesn't have much info on how it operates ... what's it doing? It looks like it's got a mini air intake that must plumb to the included baseplate to lean out rich mixtures. Electrical wires for the coil? Is that a signal for a mini fuel injector that plumbs into the other port on their baseplate?
 
It controls a vacuum leak based on wideband AFR readings to obtain your setpoint target, aparently.

I am having a hard time not thinking it's a good idea for those not wanting to go full blown TBI conversion.

I've seen a few videos of people who have done it, and so far, can't really see it as a gimmick, or BS, and was hoping someone here might have some first hand knowledge.
 
It controls a vacuum leak based on wideband AFR readings to obtain your setpoint target, aparently.

I am having a hard time not thinking it's a good idea for those not wanting to go full blown TBI conversion.

I've seen a few videos of people who have done it, and so far, can't really see it as a gimmick, or BS, and was hoping someone here might have some first hand knowledge.
I saw that little doodad with the very cute 1" round air filter on it and figured that's essentially what it was. They're not advertising it as TBI, so I figured there'd be no fuel. They're just leaning out the mixture based on whatever parameter you set. Interesting idea with pros & cons. I guess if you tune the carb super rich, then you'd be giving this device a wide range to operate.

I have an A:F gauge from Autometer ($150) and know how to rebuild a carb and use the various vacuum doohickies in a 2F engine bay to tune the mixture for various circumstances.
 
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I bought Two of the Carb Cheater LITE versions a year or so ago but they're still sitting in the box CHEATER LINK

The full versions are for Q-jets or something like that and not applicable.

The 'Lite' version is just a complete with O2 sensor Bluetooth kit that either uses your phone or supplied display. It allows full wireless monitoring of A/F Mix, RPM, Vacuum reading, etc. No GPS, though. It's actually an incredible value for what you get. If Autometer sold it, it would $600

I have an Autometer A/F wideband already in the 60, but it's analog and I don't really like it so I got these for the 40 and the 60. What's nice is no wires through the firewall. I didn't want a flashy digital gauge that was distracting, so this fit the bill nicely. Monitor can be shut off or simply used just for tuning.

I don't see how people can tune these carbs without, at minimum, an AFR meter, particularly with RFG gas and alcohol spiked gasoline.

His video shows the monitor can pick up signals from 300 ft away.

I plan to do a write-up on the install, but other projects first....


 
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His video shows the monitor can pick up signals from 300 ft away.

Perfect for double transfer case trucks that crawl super slow ... set it in gear, get out and walk away. You can still monitor your truck while it's climbing over obstacles!
 
Like others said, it's just a wideband oxygen sensor with an electronic valve that controls vacuum going into your manifold.

Few things:
  1. This inherently requires your carb to be jetted/adjusted slightly rich.
  2. It's not going to be able to handle large fueling issues
  3. It's most effective at idle and cruising, it will be less effective at high throttle, and do nothing close to WOT
  4. It does nothing to improve fuel distribution, manifold wetting, or eliminating any of the other traditional carb "nuances"
But, for someone looking to improve their around-town drivability, squeak out a bit more fuel economy and give some semblance of "modernity" to their carb'd vehicle without converting to EFI, I think it's a pretty good buy at under $400.
 
@Lead Head this was my take on it as well. Not expecting miracles. My issues tend to be at idle and around town. And in this economia, a few extra MPG sound great.
 
You can buy temporary widebands that clip onto the tailpipe so you can monitor when you drive around, and easily remove it once your issues are solved. It’s really the only way to do it without guessing.
 
You can buy temporary widebands that clip onto the tailpipe so you can monitor when you drive around, and easily remove it once your issues are solved. It’s really the only way to do it without guessing.
Just keep in mind if you have cats, the readings of a tailpipe sensor really won't be meaningful. Additionally, carbs are really only ever "perfect" at one temperature/humidity/altitude. You'd be surprised at how far your air/fuel ratio will change going from a hot humid summer day to a cold winter day.
 
A statically tuned device metering in a dynamic environment
 
I looked more closely at the carb cheater versions. There is no phone app for Carb Cheater Lite - it's by the wireless display only. The provided display looks like very nice quality so no issues for me.

The Carb Cheater full version requires a 'spacer' between the carb and Intake manifold. So as stated, no applicable to 2bbl Aisan.

The guy who makes these kits (Thunderhead289 on YT) is a software engineer and gearhead.
 
Our carbs all have a place to introduce vacuum at the manifold below the carb…
 
@zeeklafreek my thoughts exactly
 
As well as the two ports on the Air Horn (that's how the HAC works).
The HAC ports filtered air into three locations on the carb, and one is below the throttle blades - it's not dissimilar to the device in the first post in that way - except it's not reactive or programmable. Up here in Denver and at higher altitudes in the mountains highway cruise shows 17-18+ on my A:F gauge. It did in my previous 60, and in this 60 with the tired old motor and the rebuilt one. I have theories about why, but that's for another time. a 25CC VTV on that vac hose that feeds air below the throttle blades does wonders for bringing that down ;)
 
Yes, I've thought about a VSV in some of those locations, but ultimately, I'm still smogged, and the HAC is working so I'd rather just let the system be automatic.

Target AFR for your elevation and light load should be around 15-ish. I'm at 800' above sea level and mine does the same. 🤷‍♀️ I always just attributed it to all the smog sheet, particularly Air Injection
 
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