Like others have said rip it all out ! really pretty easy to tell whats not OEM anything zip tied on and all wires coming from it or patch on wire taps.
One of the first things I did on my 80 and my first Gen Tundra
car wont crank unless jumped, battery dying, low idling ( sometimes at 100 rpms) and then stalling, driving at 50mph and throttling and drops to 0mph
- Thread starter cruisingalong45
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One of the first things I did on my 80 and my first Gen Tundra
- Thread starter
- #22
i think i found the brain and its called rostra aspr
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Start there and the trace all
Of the wiring to its termination points. See if you’ve got any factory connectors left. Unhook/unplug all
Of that s***. Then see where things stand.
Yup, like all said, alarm. Eventually, it will likely cause a no start, like it did for me. I had to tear one out in the parking lot, then back to business...
- Thread starter
- #25
I think I ripped the whole alarm system out and put temporary electrical tape connecting and covering everything back to original.
but there seems to be a problem still (not totally unexpected)
I jump the truck and charge the battery a bit, the discharge light turns off but my idling is often very low it's reading 100-600 and when I disconnect the jumper cables the truck slowly but surely eventually dies. maybe its the battery? I ordered the fusible links but it will be awhile
but there seems to be a problem still (not totally unexpected)
I jump the truck and charge the battery a bit, the discharge light turns off but my idling is often very low it's reading 100-600 and when I disconnect the jumper cables the truck slowly but surely eventually dies. maybe its the battery? I ordered the fusible links but it will be awhile
Did you install a new battery yet? If not slap a new one in along with a new fuseable link. Without these two things being good your just pissing into the wind. If those are good I’d look into throttle position sensor / MAF sensor / IACV / temp sensor for the computer not the gauge / and throttle body cleanliness.
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
Air, fuel, spark.
When you buy the new battery, purchase one that is rated high for cold starts.
You’ve got the alarm pulled which is great. If it wasn’t THE problem it can’t have been helping. And you’ve diagnosed at least one failing part. New TPS is in order and you’re doing some “while I’m in there” things? Which is also in the money. But that low idle, man, I really think you need to double check the IACV. I’d add that to your parts list as well.
Getting these old trucks in good running order is frigging expensive, but absolutely worth it.
Replace the freakin battery already.
Have your alternator tested.
Replace fusible links.
Have your alternator tested.
Replace fusible links.
- Thread starter
- #31
I put my moms car battery in my car and tried cranking it only for a few seconds as to not kill her battery and it didn't turn over( it just kept cranking, same thing happening when I jump the bad battery ) , I already placed an order on the fusible links and am trying to buy a new battery today but don't have a car to get to an auto parts store.
- Thread starter
- #32
just cranking with a battery that is good (I had this one tested at a auto parts store) says it wasn't fried. going to be a long land cruiser journey for me as I don't have a lot of money to constantly put into it. but I'm willing
Sounds an awful lot like the alternator not putting out. Can you get it running long enough to check with the voltmeter?
- Thread starter
- #34
no not anymore
Read post #2...again.
Let's take a step backwards here for a minute. If you have not already downloaded the FSM and EWD from the Resources section, please do so (they are free and a wealth of information). There is also a sticky at the top of this forum: FAQ (FAQ - 80-series FAQ for General Info, Modification and Repairs - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-faq-for-general-info-modification-and-repairs.84888/) that will also help in diagnosing common issue with the 80.
Many of the suggestions are from very season people on this board and come from years of experience. We are trying to help you solve your trucks issues with going full parts cannon mode.
What @jonheld has been saying is very sound and will get you to a point where you can diagnose your problems with a very high degree of certainty. If you cannot get the truck to a state that will allow the diagnosis this will cause more issues and possible money spent where it is not needed.
If the truck will start even with a very low idle you can manually keep it running by moving the throttle by hand under the hood. Just don't go crazy, the rpm should be around 800. If you can do this you can then do other tests that have been suggested.
Along with others I would be leaning toward an alternator issue but if you are not providing the proper voltage to the system this is merely a shot in the dark. To verify from your previous posts, you have taken your battery in and had it tested (voltage and load test) correct? Also, "it wasn't fried" is not really a reading, do you know what it tested at on both tests? Did you ever get the fusible links in and swapped out?
Now, concerning the money or lack thereof. If you have time and some tools, the resources and experience here can get you a long way before you have to spend a lot of money. Most of the test suggested so far require basic hand tools and a multimeter. If you cannot test your alternator yourself, many parts stores will test for free you just need to bring it to them.
Please keep us updated but also let us know what you have done per the FSM or suggestions so we can assist you in the right direction.
Many of the suggestions are from very season people on this board and come from years of experience. We are trying to help you solve your trucks issues with going full parts cannon mode.
What @jonheld has been saying is very sound and will get you to a point where you can diagnose your problems with a very high degree of certainty. If you cannot get the truck to a state that will allow the diagnosis this will cause more issues and possible money spent where it is not needed.
If the truck will start even with a very low idle you can manually keep it running by moving the throttle by hand under the hood. Just don't go crazy, the rpm should be around 800. If you can do this you can then do other tests that have been suggested.
Along with others I would be leaning toward an alternator issue but if you are not providing the proper voltage to the system this is merely a shot in the dark. To verify from your previous posts, you have taken your battery in and had it tested (voltage and load test) correct? Also, "it wasn't fried" is not really a reading, do you know what it tested at on both tests? Did you ever get the fusible links in and swapped out?
Now, concerning the money or lack thereof. If you have time and some tools, the resources and experience here can get you a long way before you have to spend a lot of money. Most of the test suggested so far require basic hand tools and a multimeter. If you cannot test your alternator yourself, many parts stores will test for free you just need to bring it to them.
Please keep us updated but also let us know what you have done per the FSM or suggestions so we can assist you in the right direction.
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
Very well put.
Is this attachment a video?
Mud won't jet you upload video directly.
You need to upload to YouTube, Vimeo etc, and then copy and paste a link
From your first post^^
The random gauge movement suggests a bad alternator or bad ground connection somewhere. If I'll the only issue you had was the gauges jumping, a bad ground at the dash/instrument cluster would be a suspect.
The fact you also have idling issues, loss of power, and battery issue, sideways is possibly a bad battery ground, or a bad alternator ground, or a bad connection at the plug on the back of the alternator.
All things you can check our without spending any money.
The post above is solid advice.
There's lots of help available here, just keep asking and answering questions as best you can. Asking questions costs nothing. On the contrary, asking questions helps you gain knowledge and skills.
Keep your thread updated, and someone will point you in the right direction
There's some grumpy old buggers here, but lots of us also remember being young and being in over our head fixing a sh¡t box we have no business trying to fix.
- Thread starter
- #40
when i had battery tested it was not came out as not fully charged and 154 cold cranking amps which was better than my other battery... which scored 0 on all tests. the fusible links are still on the way and wont show up until the 26th, so I'm waiting on those. school off tomorrow so will likely spend the whole day pissing in the wind. but maybe I'll get a eureka moment and solve something
greatly appreciate the help and I'll check out the link provided