Canadian BJ42

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I've got my wheel wells and quarters cut. Going to bead roll, bend and epoxy this week I hope. At a stand still with my alternator until I get stronger bits to drill through the shaft. Now I'm going to go try and drop the fuel tank, hopefully I don't get attacked by the bees or spiders who have made a home around it :/
 
I've collected a few parts from the garbage bin at work.

A 8x10x1 oil cooler from a 2011 Nissan Titan (front end hit, cooler was slightly bent. Put it on the ground stepped on it and now it's straight again and still holds oil):

OilCooler.jpg


A 10x4x2 power steering cooler from a Toyota (not sure what model with no visible damage):

PSCooler.jpg


And a trailer hitch off of a 2007 Toyota Sienna (rear end hit, round bar bent. I'll cut it off and mount it to the frame some how):

Hitch.jpg


Here's a picture of one of my wheel wells before I bead roll it and bend it into place (nothing special just thought I'd share):

WheelWell.jpg



Now I'm just wondering where I'm going to stick this all. Might have to modify the from grill a bit more or not use any of it.
 
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Here's a floor I rolled for a 1953 Jeep I'm rebuilding the body on. My cruiser is on pause till that job is finished.
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I didn't see if anyone had answered your query anywhere about wider axles, so i thought I'd pipe up just in case.

I put HJ61 (FJ62) axles under my LX with factory cable lockers which I got when I was still living in Australia. Cable lockers aside, I LOVE the wider axles on my LX; it tracks better, does not jump from rut to rut on degraded roads and corners better. I have not had a chance to get her really off cambre yet, but on side slopes of up to 30° it feels really stable.

The rear axle is obviously quite easy: move the perches in 1" each. The front is a bit more involved as you have to move the frame hangers outboard 1" each (at which time I also moved the hangers/axle forward 9/16" to compliment the 2" rearward move of the rear axle, giving me almost a 93" wheel base).

The most surprising result I found was that the rig is much smoother on rutted dirt roads. I believe this is because the springs are now further outboard and thus the torsion from the axles is spread out over a larger area. I am at a bit of a loss as to why this is, but I am grateful that it is so.

If I had realised just how nice these axles were on a 40 earlier, I would have put them on every 40 I've ever owned.
 
Thanks. I haven't updated in a while.
I just finished that jeep I was working on and am currently in Bolivia (so many cruisers here). Being here I was actually considering 80 series axles with transfer case (if that's possible) and have stock lockers so I can save some money at first. I heard they are even wider.
From what I read in the owners manual the center diff locks when in low range and the front and rear have a switch. Would that stock center lock be fine for off roading if I ditch to ARBs front and rear later?
Thanks again for the info!
 
Sorry to jump in your thread but I have a quick question . I have a 1984 Canadian bj42 it has the same air vents on the hardtop that yours has in your first photos do you have any idea where I can get one of those mine is broken . Just the outside cover part ? Thanks for your help
 
I can't see where that goes but I'm sure a dealership would have it.
 
Shad0wTr0n said:
I can't see where that goes but I'm sure a dealership would have it.

It goes vertically on the side roof panel under the pop-out rear vent window about 3" from the bottom lip of the roof with the opening facing aft.
 
Here's the diagram showing those vents. It should be around $25 per side. (The part number on the diagram is only part of what Toyota needs. But those are the last digits)

Good luck

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Try Cruiser Dan at American Toyota in Albuquerque. He is a Cruiser guy and has the fiche for most regions too.
 
Just got my first round of parts. Super pumped to start working on it again!!!

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Now all I have to do is dig out the truck from the collapsed car tent and snow.
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So I went to go make a path to pull my land cruiser closer to my in-laws house and here's what I find.

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Oh we'll, this is where it was before that.

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And the project continues...
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I took out my front leaf springs a while ago and had chunks of wood stuffed in there when I moved it last. So today I sprung it over so I can move it once again.
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Here's the diagram showing those vents. It should be around $25 per side. (The part number on the diagram is only part of what Toyota needs. But those are the last digits)

Good luck

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The Dealer has had them for like $30 each(or pair)

I've seen billet ones made that won't break if you look at them cross.
 
So I bought a filter kit (oil, fuel, air) and the spot where the fuel filter goes looked like a housing for a paper style filter. So I compared the one I bought with it and I don't think this thing has ever been changed. I took a big set of channel lock pliers and it took 25 minutes of grabbing it in different spots and crushing sections to loosen it. Yikes.

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So after two years (in which I bought another Land Cruiser, and a house AND have spent all my time making the cruiser my daily driver and the house pretty for my wife) I'm finally getting back to the 42. Just relocated it from the in-laws to my garage. Lots of work and posts to come!
 
Looks like alot of metal work ahead of you ! Seeing as your making your own parts you may have others requesting parts once they see your work.
You likly know the original thickness of the metal is 18ga for most of the body. the rear channel is 1/8 as is the under bed channels and body support mounts. I prefer to make all the body parts 16ga.
Great build project !
 

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