Yes, the valve spring force will go -> rocker arm -> rod -> lifter and push them back down.
Can I put together a 3FE when I don't know what I'm doing? Lets find out...
- Thread starter Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #62
Awesome thanks.
So with all that done, I could finally put on the push rod cover, then was able to add a few other components like the ps pump and distributor.
It’s coming together. The plated parts certainly make it colorful. Once I get the manifolds powder coated, I can start all of that stuff. I will have several desmog questions. I think I have the gist of it.
Also, I’m planning to get my fuel injectors cleaned. I think I read it is a good idea to wait on that until they will get used. Is that correct? Is it a bad idea to get them cleaned and installed, if I won’t be running the engine for a while?
So with all that done, I could finally put on the push rod cover, then was able to add a few other components like the ps pump and distributor.
It’s coming together. The plated parts certainly make it colorful. Once I get the manifolds powder coated, I can start all of that stuff. I will have several desmog questions. I think I have the gist of it.
Also, I’m planning to get my fuel injectors cleaned. I think I read it is a good idea to wait on that until they will get used. Is that correct? Is it a bad idea to get them cleaned and installed, if I won’t be running the engine for a while?
- Thread starter
- #63
Hi all, bumping this thread back up to report on progress and getting into desmog questions.
First, engine is mounted on the frame, and mated to the H42. I have started bolting on all the peripheral components, but nothing tight yet - just want to make sure I have everything, all hardware, little parts, etc. Here are a few progress pictures:
Next post have some desmog questions as I build it.
First, engine is mounted on the frame, and mated to the H42. I have started bolting on all the peripheral components, but nothing tight yet - just want to make sure I have everything, all hardware, little parts, etc. Here are a few progress pictures:
Next post have some desmog questions as I build it.
It's, It's, beautiful.
- Thread starter
- #65
OK, so for desmog and vacuum lines. So far, I have blocked off the EGR ports on intake plenum and the exhaust manifolds, as you can see in the 3rd picture above. I did not install the air injection rail (plugged the ports) or the mess of vacuum hard lines, and did not install the smog pump. So, now for vacuum lines, here are my questions.
1) Do I need the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator? I have read both with some folks saying it is necessary and some saying it is not. Seems folks have successfully desmogged both ways. Here are two pictures I found of desmogged engines (sorry for the high tech computer screen photo snaps). The first has the VSV mounted on the intake plenum, with a vacuum line going from the VSV to the FPR on one side and to the dual port "gas filter" (thats what its called) on the intake from the other side. Second pictures does not appear to have the VSV used at all. Instead, the vacuum line from the FPR goes straight to the a vacuum port directly above on the intake plenum. Does anyone know for sure which way is correct, or maybe said better, which is going to make the engine run best? As I understand, without that VSV, there will be constant vacuum to the FPR, which means the FPR will maintain full pressure at all times. Is that correct? Will it make it harder to start cold or hot? I'd prefer to delete this VSV all together, but not at the expense of a well running engine.
2) second question is regarding that "gas filter" vacuum intake thing on the front of the air intake. I assume this is just a vacuum source and if I end up not using the FPR VSV, I can plug this hole. Does it serve any other purpose?
3) Question 3 is regarding the BVSV on the thermostat housing. It's this thing in the picture below. From what I understand, it controls the check valve for the charcoal canister? So I think one line would run to that valve, and the other is a vacuum source? I'm planning to still run the charcoal canister, so assume I need this. But some confirmation would be nice that I understand correctly.
I'll start with those questions, if anyone has some advice.
thanks.
Edit: I do have vacuum diagrams, but still get confused when it comes to deleting stuff. Slowly learning.
1) Do I need the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator? I have read both with some folks saying it is necessary and some saying it is not. Seems folks have successfully desmogged both ways. Here are two pictures I found of desmogged engines (sorry for the high tech computer screen photo snaps). The first has the VSV mounted on the intake plenum, with a vacuum line going from the VSV to the FPR on one side and to the dual port "gas filter" (thats what its called) on the intake from the other side. Second pictures does not appear to have the VSV used at all. Instead, the vacuum line from the FPR goes straight to the a vacuum port directly above on the intake plenum. Does anyone know for sure which way is correct, or maybe said better, which is going to make the engine run best? As I understand, without that VSV, there will be constant vacuum to the FPR, which means the FPR will maintain full pressure at all times. Is that correct? Will it make it harder to start cold or hot? I'd prefer to delete this VSV all together, but not at the expense of a well running engine.
2) second question is regarding that "gas filter" vacuum intake thing on the front of the air intake. I assume this is just a vacuum source and if I end up not using the FPR VSV, I can plug this hole. Does it serve any other purpose?
3) Question 3 is regarding the BVSV on the thermostat housing. It's this thing in the picture below. From what I understand, it controls the check valve for the charcoal canister? So I think one line would run to that valve, and the other is a vacuum source? I'm planning to still run the charcoal canister, so assume I need this. But some confirmation would be nice that I understand correctly.
I'll start with those questions, if anyone has some advice.
thanks.
Edit: I do have vacuum diagrams, but still get confused when it comes to deleting stuff. Slowly learning.
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Damn, that's a nice looking engine!
Bump. All of the sensors and friends on my t housing have died, rotted and/or fallen off. I'll look when I get home to see if I can give yo something useful. And I hear you on vac diagrams.
- Thread starter
- #68
Thanks. For now, I have decided not to use the vsv for the FPR. I just plugged the hole for the “gas filter”. I read several folks who said they’ve deleted with no ill consequence. If I’m having problems once I get this thing running, can always change.
On the BVSV, still not sure. I have the bottom line running to the charcoal canister check valve. Not sure if the top one needs to be a vacuum source or what.
On the BVSV, still not sure. I have the bottom line running to the charcoal canister check valve. Not sure if the top one needs to be a vacuum source or what.
Seen this? Or this?
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks again. I'll be honest, that first diagram I have a very hard time understanding. The second one makes a lot more sense 
, but is hard to trace the lines on that one. Luckily for me, I have a 3FE on my other 40. Ive traced the hoses on that [smogged] 3FE. As I said, bottom port of the BVSV goes to the check valve. What I had forgotten is that the top valve goes to one of the EGR ports on top of the throttle body...so the yellow line in the diagram. Its kind of hard to follow the lines through all the spaghetti mess, wiring, etc. But I'm pretty sure I have that correct.
I'm thinking I still need to run the hose from the top fitting of the BVSV to that EGR port on the throttle body. My assumption on how this works is: the BVSV measures coolant temperature and opens up a vacuum to the check valve based on the temp readings. So if I don't run that top line, there is no vacuum to "open" up to the check valve and it in turn won't vent the charcoal canister properly.
If any of that doesn't sound right, would like to know!
, but is hard to trace the lines on that one. Luckily for me, I have a 3FE on my other 40. Ive traced the hoses on that [smogged] 3FE. As I said, bottom port of the BVSV goes to the check valve. What I had forgotten is that the top valve goes to one of the EGR ports on top of the throttle body...so the yellow line in the diagram. Its kind of hard to follow the lines through all the spaghetti mess, wiring, etc. But I'm pretty sure I have that correct.I'm thinking I still need to run the hose from the top fitting of the BVSV to that EGR port on the throttle body. My assumption on how this works is: the BVSV measures coolant temperature and opens up a vacuum to the check valve based on the temp readings. So if I don't run that top line, there is no vacuum to "open" up to the check valve and it in turn won't vent the charcoal canister properly.
If any of that doesn't sound right, would like to know!
Btw where does the vac line(s) from the D Cap go? Since wer'e all here hanging out...
- Thread starter
- #72
On mine, there are two vent lines from the distributor. One goes to the firewall (presumably for dry clean air), the other to the air intake (I *think* it went to the air cleaner assembly for folks who have that installed). I have a cone filter, so the line just goes to the intake tube.
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- Thread starter
- #73
Bumping again with more progress and a few questions. To start…I suppose we can say I can build a 3FE without knowing what I’m doing. Finally, got things up and running. First start was last week. Here is a video of the very first start up. Took a minute to get going, I assume took a bit for the fuel to get there.
So was very pleased. Had a few issues I needed to work through with some fuel leaking and other minor problems. But all working well now. Here is a picture of the whole engine installed:
As of today, it seems to be running pretty well. A couple issues, which I will discuss on the next post. Only one engine code, and it’s related to the vss which I don’t have hooked up (need to figure out what to do with it since I have Dakota digital gauges).
And for anyone who cares, here is the maiden voyage driving out of the shop. Video is kind of long (2 1/2 min) and maybe boring, but was exciting for me!
So was very pleased. Had a few issues I needed to work through with some fuel leaking and other minor problems. But all working well now. Here is a picture of the whole engine installed:
As of today, it seems to be running pretty well. A couple issues, which I will discuss on the next post. Only one engine code, and it’s related to the vss which I don’t have hooked up (need to figure out what to do with it since I have Dakota digital gauges).
And for anyone who cares, here is the maiden voyage driving out of the shop. Video is kind of long (2 1/2 min) and maybe boring, but was exciting for me!
- Thread starter
- #75
So yesterday I took it for a bit of a longer drive. Got it up to faster speeds (about 50mph). I’ve noticed a couple problems, and I think they might be related.
First, I think my fuel pressure is too low. I don’t really notice it in performance, Eg there is no hesitation or stalling or anything, but I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it reads about 35psi pretty constantly, whether the engine is cold or warm. FSM say fuel pressure should be 37-46. So it’s close, but is a little low. My FPR is brand new, but is aftermarket.
Second issue is backfiring. I don’t notice this when the engine is cold, but when it warms up. It was most apparent when coasting in gear and letting off the throttle completely. FSM troubleshooting says could be related to lean mixture. So I think this might be related to the fuel pressure issue.
Where I’m at now is back to my first question in post #65 above. I elected to not hook up the fuel pressure vsv. In doing some more reading, it’s seems that deleting that vsv can cause lean problems. So thinking I will connect that back up to see. But if anyone knows specifically about this, would love to hear it.
First, I think my fuel pressure is too low. I don’t really notice it in performance, Eg there is no hesitation or stalling or anything, but I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it reads about 35psi pretty constantly, whether the engine is cold or warm. FSM say fuel pressure should be 37-46. So it’s close, but is a little low. My FPR is brand new, but is aftermarket.
Second issue is backfiring. I don’t notice this when the engine is cold, but when it warms up. It was most apparent when coasting in gear and letting off the throttle completely. FSM troubleshooting says could be related to lean mixture. So I think this might be related to the fuel pressure issue.
Where I’m at now is back to my first question in post #65 above. I elected to not hook up the fuel pressure vsv. In doing some more reading, it’s seems that deleting that vsv can cause lean problems. So thinking I will connect that back up to see. But if anyone knows specifically about this, would love to hear it.
Hey @Curtice - Any update on this project? Curious if you are still running without the regulator VSV and/or BVSV?
- Thread starter
- #77
Not really. I have not hooked up the VSV since I've had other things to deal with and hasn't been a priority. The engine is running great still. The symptoms above are still there, but it doesn't seem to be a big deal in terms of performance. I'm getting around 12.5 mpg on average, which isn't bad I don't think for a 3FE in a 40.