- Thread starter
- #821
Lookin' studly*...
*Fresh hardware by @beno
*Fresh hardware by @beno
Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #823
Next year...
- Thread starter
- #824
The FF got the full treatment. Round of fresh Koyos, seals, ebrakes, disc brakes, wheel studs, paint, etc.
It is ready for duty. I'm ready to finally have some hubs poking out of the rear wheels.
It is ready for duty. I'm ready to finally have some hubs poking out of the rear wheels.
- Thread starter
- #825
I did end up using the Sequoia calipers with *coughAutozone*cough pads. They were in great shape, the piston moved freely, and the rubber bits looked ok, so I threw some hi-temp paint & clear on and peeled out. They for sure bolt on, mate to 80 series discs and take 80 series pads.
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Excellent and filed away in the memory for roadside repairs. 1st gen Sequoia calipers in 80 series rear if needed.
Your paint looks nice and hides the boogers quite well. How did you prep and paint? Rattle can vs real paint?
Your paint looks nice and hides the boogers quite well. How did you prep and paint? Rattle can vs real paint?
- Thread starter
- #827
My general paint method is to: take off the loose rust (for the axle & parts that are also greasy I scrub with degreaser & a Scotchbrite pad), then wipe down with non-chlorinated (flammable kind) brake cleaner. I prime with Rustoleum professional, putting on a heavy coat, almost to the point of dripping. Then two heavy, almost dripping coats of Rustoleum Professional semi-gloss.
The key to a smooth finish (and good adhesion) is to put down a thick coat and maintain a wet edge. Light dusting coats dry before bonding (and will flake off) and leave a dull finish.
I use rattle cans because they are convenient for the small batches of parts I'm usually painting. But this is decent stuff. It held up and looked good on my sliders even after ten years (of course it doesn't hold up to rocks). When it dies down it looks like powder coat.
The key to a smooth finish (and good adhesion) is to put down a thick coat and maintain a wet edge. Light dusting coats dry before bonding (and will flake off) and leave a dull finish.
I use rattle cans because they are convenient for the small batches of parts I'm usually painting. But this is decent stuff. It held up and looked good on my sliders even after ten years (of course it doesn't hold up to rocks). When it dies down it looks like powder coat.
- Thread starter
- #828
FWIW, I noticed that the diff opening in the FF housing is a tighter fit than my old 60 housing. Both the 80 diff coming out and my 60 diff going in took some persuasion. I think they cut the hole more precisely as time went on.
Nice Cam! I ended up going to Harbor Freight a month ago and getting one of their sand blasting cabinets. They were like 50% off! So now that i'm tearing the front end apart, the knuckles and parts are getting blasted, then painted. Feels good to have it really "nor-cal" clean!
Nah, it's probably just a warped housing.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
It is a snug fit on the 80 housing, and 4.11 is the largest diameter ring gear by a few mm. I think the cut outs are just slightly smaller on the 80 housing. If you look at the 3rd member itself, the 80s is smoother with less deep fins.
It is a tight fit.
I didn't notice one of these copper air lines in there.... why not?
This is the front of mine... tore it down to inspect the wheel bearings and i guess driving through door high ocean 5 or 6 times last summer really is bad! Found rust and other debris so i did a full tear down. While in there i re-ran the copper line, new O-rings on the air locker and cleaned it up real nice.
I didn't notice one of these copper air lines in there.... why not?
This is the front of mine... tore it down to inspect the wheel bearings and i guess driving through door high ocean 5 or 6 times last summer really is bad! Found rust and other debris so i did a full tear down. While in there i re-ran the copper line, new O-rings on the air locker and cleaned it up real nice.
- Thread starter
- #836
FINALLY have hubs sticking out of the rear wheels. That was I all I really wanted in the first place 
I still need to plumb the rear brakes and connect the ebrake cable.
I also threw in some 866 coils to try out. If these work, I may try one last set of front coils (OME mediums) before calling it quits.
So there isn't really room for the rear coils to fit 100% perfect. I had to cheat a little to squeeze them in, but I think I made it work. The last axle was my practice version. On this one, I moved the UCA mounts inboard - when I moved the coil perches on the axle, I was getting some rubbing between the bolt & spring.
I also rotated the spring perches forward 8 degrees to better point the springs at the upper coil buckets. It looks alot better under there now. Lots of clearance for everything.
I still need to plumb the rear brakes and connect the ebrake cable.
I also threw in some 866 coils to try out. If these work, I may try one last set of front coils (OME mediums) before calling it quits.
So there isn't really room for the rear coils to fit 100% perfect. I had to cheat a little to squeeze them in, but I think I made it work. The last axle was my practice version. On this one, I moved the UCA mounts inboard - when I moved the coil perches on the axle, I was getting some rubbing between the bolt & spring.
I also rotated the spring perches forward 8 degrees to better point the springs at the upper coil buckets. It looks alot better under there now. Lots of clearance for everything.
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- Thread starter
- #837
Big shout out to our most recent sponsor, Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting. @beno furnished the 80 series e-brake cable and lots of shiny new nuts and bolts to put on the rear axle. It looks new back there. Be sure to give him a shout the next time you need some OEM loot for your whip - parts@landcruiserpartsandconsulting.com
- Thread starter
- #838
I got the brakes plumbed and bled. Without the LSPV & ABS, I have a FIRM pedal. ZERO sponge. And they straight WORK 
It's a night and day difference.
I also got the 866 springs in. I think these are the ones. The height is perfect unloaded. It has just a touch of the stink, so it should level out when I fill it up with all my Coleman appliances, it's-not-cast-iron steel pans, and espresso gear. They seem to ride better than the heavies, too.
Between the new suspension and the brakes, the truck really feels like it's perfectly balanced with the V8.
It's a night and day difference.
I also got the 866 springs in. I think these are the ones. The height is perfect unloaded. It has just a touch of the stink, so it should level out when I fill it up with all my Coleman appliances, it's-not-cast-iron steel pans, and espresso gear. They seem to ride better than the heavies, too.
Between the new suspension and the brakes, the truck really feels like it's perfectly balanced with the V8.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Wow. Nearly done and a month to spare.
The hubs look good. Welcome to the "hub club". All we need is for @beno to clean out his living room and get that Full Float in it's place.
And where's the line for the airlocker?
The hubs look good. Welcome to the "hub club". All we need is for @beno to clean out his living room and get that Full Float in it's place.
And where's the line for the airlocker?
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