Low gears, 5.29's and the 80 is almost a real crawler. Was incredible on Dusy 2 years back.
Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant
- Thread starter FJ60Cam
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Low gears, 5.29's and the 80 is almost a real crawler. Was incredible on Dusy 2 years back.
Looking very good Cam!!
- Thread starter
- #144
Thank you sir!
- Thread starter
- #145
After a lot of overthinking (because I don't know anything about AN fittings), I ordered most of what I'll need to fab up my fuel delivery and power steering. I'm still a ways off from needing this, but I don't want to have to figure it out and order when I get to it.
After trying to fit together bits and pieces and looking for the lowest price, I ended up getting this kit... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Regulator-Pump-Kit,103299.html
Post-build edit. Don't buy the kit, source the pieces separately. The filter/pressure regulator is an off-brand, hecho in China, and mine failed. Luckily it happened a few miles after returning home from a 5000 mile trip so I wasn't stranded. Be sure to buy a genuine Wix 33737 filter/regulator and carry a spare. Filter failure will appear as a pump failure.
I ran the TBI version of this (Walbro) pump on the 2F TBI system to replace the pump supplied by AFI. The (lack of) noise was remarkable compared to the kit pump. It was virtually silent. I'm hoping that's the case here.
That got me everything I need except the hose and fittings between the pump & filter/pressure regulator, and between the filter/PR and the fuel rail. For those I got (4) of these Russell push lock fittings and some hose...
Amazon.com: Russell 624010 Twist-Lok Red/Blue Anodized Aluminum -4AN Straight Hose End: Automotive
Amazon.com: Russell 634153 Black 15' -6AN Twist-Lok Hose: Automotive
For the power steering high pressure hose, I ordered up a field serviceable diy kit from PSC. http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pressure-hose-kit-toyota-toyota-pump-to-toyota-gear.html plus one additional fitting to go into the GM pump. This should be cheaper and easier than finding someone to make one.
Post-build edit. I ended up having a hose made and keeping the DIY as a spare.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe I can put together the rest of my hoses (power steering return and transmission cooler) with off the shelf hose & hose clamps since they are low pressure.
Post-build edit. Don't buy the kit, source the pieces separately. The filter/pressure regulator is an off-brand, hecho in China, and mine failed. Luckily it happened a few miles after returning home from a 5000 mile trip so I wasn't stranded. Be sure to buy a genuine Wix 33737 filter/regulator and carry a spare. Filter failure will appear as a pump failure.
I ran the TBI version of this (Walbro) pump on the 2F TBI system to replace the pump supplied by AFI. The (lack of) noise was remarkable compared to the kit pump. It was virtually silent. I'm hoping that's the case here.
That got me everything I need except the hose and fittings between the pump & filter/pressure regulator, and between the filter/PR and the fuel rail. For those I got (4) of these Russell push lock fittings and some hose...
Amazon.com: Russell 624010 Twist-Lok Red/Blue Anodized Aluminum -4AN Straight Hose End: Automotive
Amazon.com: Russell 634153 Black 15' -6AN Twist-Lok Hose: Automotive
Post-build edit. I ended up having a hose made and keeping the DIY as a spare.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe I can put together the rest of my hoses (power steering return and transmission cooler) with off the shelf hose & hose clamps since they are low pressure.
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I'm using the same Walbro GSL392 fuel pump for my TBI engine and it is very quiet. The only time I can hear it running is when I first switch on the ignition key and fuel pump start to run.
Got mine on fleabay $91.xx shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-GSL3...sure-Fuel-Pump-Complete-/171155381796?vxp=mtr
Got mine on fleabay $91.xx shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-GSL3...sure-Fuel-Pump-Complete-/171155381796?vxp=mtr
- Thread starter
- #147
Cool, good to hear it is quiet as well.
Amazon (prime) has 'em for $83 right now
I went to the trouble of making a list of all the little part numbers and trying to shop around, but still couldn't get it any cheaper than the kit. Plus, this way they'll all be in the same box for safekeeping.
I should be a Russell AN fitting salesman now. I know all the numbers by heart.
Amazon (prime) has 'em for $83 right now
I went to the trouble of making a list of all the little part numbers and trying to shop around, but still couldn't get it any cheaper than the kit. Plus, this way they'll all be in the same box for safekeeping.
I should be a Russell AN fitting salesman now. I know all the numbers by heart.
Yes the low pressure side of the p/s system can run conventional clamps and hose, since you are in a low pressure environment. Just make sure the hose is good for the fluid type to be used. Same with the transmission hose.
I tried a different hose (do-it-yourself) type setup on the pressure side of the p/s system..never got it to seal correctly. Resorted to the old school setup with having local hydraulic shop make up some hose with fittings for me. The have the fittings that you crimp with the machine that puts out some crazy pressure...but that seems to be what it takes to get the fittings to seal on the high pressure p/s hose side.
I like PSC products....I'm running one of their ps/pumps and reservoirs
I tried a different hose (do-it-yourself) type setup on the pressure side of the p/s system..never got it to seal correctly. Resorted to the old school setup with having local hydraulic shop make up some hose with fittings for me. The have the fittings that you crimp with the machine that puts out some crazy pressure...but that seems to be what it takes to get the fittings to seal on the high pressure p/s hose side.
I like PSC products....I'm running one of their ps/pumps and reservoirs
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- Thread starter
- #150
Like I said before, I had to overthink the fuel fittings because it was new territory for me.
Here's the new filter/pressure regulator & it's fittings...
These fittings have two o-rings that make the seal, and usually a plastic clip that holds them on the hard pipe. The plastic clip made me paranoid, so I opted for the kind that screw together.
Here's the new filter/pressure regulator & it's fittings...
These fittings have two o-rings that make the seal, and usually a plastic clip that holds them on the hard pipe. The plastic clip made me paranoid, so I opted for the kind that screw together.
I've been using the external version of the walbro fuel pump for my 60 from day one of my engine swap on the 5.7 vortec I have...no problems..still running the same fuel pump. Yes you can hear it, but thats due in part to the way in which its mounted...not a big problem on a 4wd truck, even on the road its not that noticeable...I would have to admit I have a hearing problem so I may be immune to some of the noise. I like the dual filter/regulator setups....I think I read somewhere that was OEM on the vette.
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- Thread starter
- #152
PSC Goodies...
Beefy hose with inner braided steel...
Outer fitting that you first thread on the hose counter-clockwise...
Then the AN fitting that threads inside the hose in the clockwise direction...
The Toyota-to-AN, and GM-to-AN fittings for the box and the pump...
This is -6 AN if you're taking notes.
Beefy hose with inner braided steel...
Outer fitting that you first thread on the hose counter-clockwise...
Then the AN fitting that threads inside the hose in the clockwise direction...
The Toyota-to-AN, and GM-to-AN fittings for the box and the pump...
This is -6 AN if you're taking notes.
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- Thread starter
- #153
Water temp and oil pressure sender adapters that will allow me to use the 2F senders and keep the stock gauges.
I plan on getting a scan gauge digital readout or a phone app for accurate numbers and for taking note of the normal position on the stock gauges.
I plan on getting a scan gauge digital readout or a phone app for accurate numbers and for taking note of the normal position on the stock gauges.
Wow Cam you have become a AN fitting expert! I know who to call when I need fuel pump/ power steering hose stuff. Keep up the good work
If you have a choice, I'd go with some crimped high pressure hoses. The kind you're using are great for trail repair, but I don't use them since I had a hose connector fail on the trail once. All my high pressure hoses are crimped.
- Thread starter
- #157
Well dang. I guess I'll make one for now and then get somebody to copy it with crimped fittings later on.
Make the hose you need so you know the length and orientation of the fittings. Take the hose(s) to an auto parts or anyone else that can make hydraulic hoses and have them made. Should not be too expensive. Keep the original hose you made for a spare.
- Thread starter
- #160
Edit on the oil sender adapter...
The contraption pictured previously is from Jags That Run and allows you to use both the GM and the Toyota senders.
When I ordered the water temp adapter from Marks, I saw that they had a cleaner, one-piece oil sender adapter. So I ordered that one too. When I opened the package, I saw that the Marks adapter eliminates the GM sender. It only has threads for the Toyota sender.
Thinking that I needed both, I went back to planning on using the JTR unit. After further research, it looks like the computer does not use the oil sender output, it is only used for the dash gauge/light. I pulled out my harness and could not find an oil sender plug, so that confirms it for me.
Here's the new one...
You can re-tap the threads in the head for the water temp, and re-tap a spot in the oil pan and avoid the adapters.
I didn't have these taps, so instead of buying the taps, I figured I'd just spend a few extra bucks and save time with straight bolt-on mods.
The contraption pictured previously is from Jags That Run and allows you to use both the GM and the Toyota senders.
When I ordered the water temp adapter from Marks, I saw that they had a cleaner, one-piece oil sender adapter. So I ordered that one too. When I opened the package, I saw that the Marks adapter eliminates the GM sender. It only has threads for the Toyota sender.
Thinking that I needed both, I went back to planning on using the JTR unit. After further research, it looks like the computer does not use the oil sender output, it is only used for the dash gauge/light. I pulled out my harness and could not find an oil sender plug, so that confirms it for me.
Here's the new one...
You can re-tap the threads in the head for the water temp, and re-tap a spot in the oil pan and avoid the adapters.
I didn't have these taps, so instead of buying the taps, I figured I'd just spend a few extra bucks and save time with straight bolt-on mods.
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