burst brake line... (1 Viewer)

[alteredraptor]

so one of my brake lines just randomly burst about 20 minutes prior to this post... im lookin for help on the cheapest and easiest way to fix the problem... i did locate the lea, but im unable to pinpoint it... all i know is that its by the two lines going to the rear, right next to the gas tank, and a little connector piece on the frame rail... truck is an 87 runner... any ideas? oh, and are the lines regular flare, or bubble?

 

[pappy]

I'm guessing from the description it's a hard line. I'm not sure what you mean by "and a little connector piece on the frame rail" unless you are talking about a frame clamp. The line should not have any connectors until it gets to the proportion valve.

Lines will be double flare. You can purchase line at any autoparts store. Size is 3/16", or you can purchase real metric stuff, but I don't remember the size. There are also these fancy connectors that you can use to splice in the new line to the old, but I don't remember what they are called. The folks at the autoparts store should be able to set you up.

Plan to purchase the following tools: tubing cutter, brake line bender, brake flaring tool. You don't need to spend a ton of money here. The cheap flaring tool will work just fine.

 

[Trevor]

I just replaced mine on my '93. They rusted-through beside the gas tank. Toyota wanted $40 a piece for the pre-bent hard lines that run the entire length of the frame. That's without a discount. I figured this was easier than messing with flaring / bending / splicing / etc.

Once the gas tank was out, installation was easier than I thought it would be. The lines just slid in between the cab and frame (no lifting cab or bed).

 

[alteredraptor]

I'm guessing from the description it's a hard line. I'm not sure what you mean by "and a little connector piece on the frame rail" unless you are talking about a frame clamp.

it is a hard line yes, and if thats the word for it than thats what i mean... the frame clamp, i never had to deal with those before so i didnt know the word till now, thanks for that, i will get to work on that today and post what happens...

 

[alteredraptor]

ok... i got one line replaced, but now i ran into a snag... can anyone offer some good advice with my problem, my problem being that i have a stuck fitting in the i think its the proportioning valve... im not entirely sure, my wrench stripped the end, and i tried using a vice grip but that just made it worse... any ideas would be great.

 

[pappy]

ok... i got one line replaced, but now i ran into a snag... can anyone offer some good advice with my problem, my problem being that i have a stuck fitting in the i think its the proportioning valve... im not entirely sure, my wrench stripped the end, and i tried using a vice grip but that just made it worse... any ideas would be great.

Were you using a regular box/open end wrench? The correct tool is a flare nut wrench and I highly recommend making the investment. I'm not saying they would have removed the nut, but they are less likely to damage it. Mr. Toyoda is notorious for over-tightening those damn things.

 

[alteredraptor]

i do have a set of them, and that is what i was using, i even sprayed rust penetrant and waited for half an hour... so yea... im lost... help?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Heat... Start with propane and if that doesn't work move onto acetylene. Good luck!!!

 

[alteredraptor]

would the heat harm that valve at all or no? only asking czu im new to those

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I'd just be careful, and start slow with the heat. Bottom line is; if you don't get that fitting off you're going to me getting a new valve too....

 

[alteredraptor]

ok than, thats good to know.

 

[Chop Shop]

you dont need heat. It will ruin the prop valve and then leak.


Dont pull it like a sissy, hit it.

The fittings are soft metal and get froze in. If you put a wrench or vise grip on them and pull slow and nice they will round off everytime.

If you put a wrench on or vise grip and smack it HARD with your hand or a hammer it will crack loose easily.

75 percent of the time they will round off even with a flare wrench. If the truck looks nasty or rusty, I just go right to the vise grip and save the damage of rounding it all to shiit.

Since your truck had a nasty corroded bad line to begin with Id say the fittings are probably just ass nasty and would have gone right to the visegrip first.

 

[Chop Shop]

I'd just be careful, and start slow with the heat. Bottom line is; if you don't get that fitting off you're going to me getting a new valve too....

It will come off easily without heat.

 

[alteredraptor]

well i did apply alittle heat from a propane torch, used a vice grip and it came out... i got both new lines in, i bled the system, got the air out... but now my system wont build up pressure... any ideas on where o begin?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

You must still have air in the lines, try bleeding from the prop valve.

 

[alteredraptor]

will do... i so didnt even know you had to do that, let alone could... i will do that as soon as i can

 

[alteredraptor]

alright, thanks everyone, my brakes are now fixed, bled the valve, that helped out ALOT, but after that, another line burst, replaced that now im all good... leave it to all the great people here who know what theyre doin

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Did the second burst happen near the first? Next to the gas tank seems to be a problem area...

 

[pappy]

Did the second burst happen near the first? Next to the gas tank seems to be a problem area...

Yep, junk gets tossed up between the tank and frame and causes problems. Not uncommon to find rocks up there. Pressure washing that space frequently is the ticket.

 

[1BADAWD]

Nope we're blaming the dmv, they cursed it, lol.