Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

New shortened table with grinder and big old Chinese vise finally at a decent working height. Now all I need is a Miller-weld stool (or maybe a S&W like Dexter). Crude rattle-can paint touchup.

Checked the alternator mounting bolts today, hit them with some Kroil - they don't seem too rusted up and seem to move. Look original too, number 6 or 9 on all three bolt heads I think. One bolt has always been bottomed out/loose, probably because of the missing hook/spacer. Dumb question - the hook lies flat on the engine block right, with the alternator bracket on top of the hook?

short-bench.webp
 
Fast Eddy said:
I think the alternator bracket goes first. The engine hooks are meant to be optional.
Click to expand...

I think you're right. Looking closer at the 3rd bottom bolt there seems to be a boss off the engine block that meets/aligns the alternator bracket below so I guess the hook would only work on top of the bracket.
 
OK, so the PO strikes again. Pulled the top 2 bolts to mount the new engine lift hook from kiwidog. They came out but not too free and easy. Examined the ends of the bolts and the threads seemed a little strange, shiny worn on the ends and one bolt didn't seem to want to go back in easily. So I decided to pull the alternator, mounting bracket, clean everything up and check out all the threads more closely. I like to be careful with tapped holes in the block, etc.

I'm thinking somebody pulled the engine hook when working on the alternator in the past and tossed it. Then they reinstalled the bolts, the two top ones now being too long and just bottomed them out in the block, messing up the threads on the ends of the 2 top bolts. They could have at least added a few washers.

So chasing the threads with a tap in the block (carefully) and will maybe try to order new hardware from Toyota, can't get my "hardware store quality" dies started on the bolt ends.
 
OK, so the PO strikes again. Pulled the top 2 bolts to mount the new engine lift hook from kiwidog. They came out but not too free and easy. Examined the ends of the bolts and the threads seemed a little strange, shiny worn on the ends and one bolt didn't seem to want to go back in easily. So I decided to pull the alternator, mounting bracket, clean everything up and check out all the threads more closely. I like to be careful with tapped holes in the block, etc.

I'm thinking somebody pulled the engine hook when working on the alternator in the past and tossed it. Then they reinstalled the bolts, the two top ones now being too long and just bottomed them out in the block, messing up the threads on the ends of the 2 top bolts. They could have at least added a few washers.

So chasing the threads with a tap in the block (carefully) and will maybe try to order new hardware from Toyota, can't get my "hardware store quality" dies started on the bolt ends.
worn-threads1.webp


worn-threads2.webp


worn-threads3.webp
 
Fast Eddy said:
I'm not going to argue with ordering new Toyota parts, ever, but if I were you I'd just hit the ends of those on the bench grinder and get rid of the few bad threads. There's plenty of bite left, IMO.
Click to expand...

Yeah Eddy - the bolts/washers (91611-61030) are discontinued at Toyota anyway. I split an old die, used a small vise, stepped back a few threads and recut the ends inside out. Came out pretty good.

split-die.webp


alternator-bracket_diagram_detail.webp
 
Hook is on - quick iPhone shot attached. Does seem to impact access (a little anyway) to that spark plug, maybe that's why it was tossed at some point.

Just ordered passenger door rubber (67861-90300) from Toyota - the last weatherstripping I need to complete all the doors. Keep thinking this stuff won't be available too much longer.

iphone_hook-on.webp


door-rubber.webp
 
This 3M 38987 Adhesive Remover works great for getting the old stuff off, better than the old 3M stuff I was using before. The new Toyota rubber is a perfect fit (so were the others), with even a special little cutout for vent hole at the top. It leaves about an inch to trim at the bottom.

3m-38987.webp
 
California smog today. Don't think the 40 has been tuned up in the last 2 years but it went right through. Guy told me CA is thinking of moving the "smog-required" limit up from 1976 to 80 something - sounds too good to be true.

 
Perfect 40 toolbox? Found an old Snap-on KRA-58B from 1966 on Craigs' List. Even came with the owners manual. Original paint, slides good shape and the guy said it had been in storage for many years. Did a simple cleanup and hit it with some car wax. Very heavy, seems to hold a lot of tools.
snapon1.webp
snapon2.webp
snapon3.webp
snapon4.webp
 
Wow! What a score that is :clap:!! You sir hit pay dirt on this find....

Cheers!!
 
Guy sent me an old original drawer slide tool, works like a charm. Also got keys made at the local locksmith, he had a little extra effort finding a correct key blank for the old 1966 SO lock. Lock now works great.

drawer_tool1.webp
drawer_tool2.webp
keys.webp
 
Mysterious, cool toy arrived in the mail yesterday. No idea who it's from, although it has a strangely "Canadian" quality about it? A few spots of epoxy primer here/there and it will be perfect! Not sure if these manuals are right.

fj40-toy-web.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom