Bump it Offroad (BIO) rear bumper (1 Viewer)

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The powder coat seems poorly done , it chips easily and then it's all downhill from there . I suppose I should have taken preventive measure from the start

I have had BIOR (Mike's) sliders on my truck for four years. I got under the truck yesterday, no signs of chips or rust. Of course I'm in Colorado, not the North East. I expect the bumper to perform the same rust wise. I'm sorry you have rust.
 
I've had my BIOR front tube bumper for 5 years, I haven't noticed any problems with the powder coat. It's never parked under cover, I've pushed down small trees with it, nudged wooden gate posts, and the winch "tray" often has sitting water (I park on a hill). I assumed I'd have to touch it up by now, but so far so good.
 
I've had my BIOR front tube bumper for 5 years, I haven't noticed any problems with the powder coat. It's never parked under cover, I've pushed down small trees with it, nudged wooden gate posts, and the winch "tray" often has sitting water (I park on a hill). I assumed I'd have to touch it up by now, but so far so good.


Nice....maybe it's just luck of the draw on who he had powder coat the bumpers .I imagine quality varies
 
I've had BIO sliders on my UZJ100 for 10+ years and while they're pretty scraped underneath, I've never had issues with the powdercoating either. Still holding on strong and not even faded much. Pretty happy with the design as well.
 
Is everyone still pleased with their BIOR rear bumpers?
 
Yes-
 
Is everyone still pleased with their BIOR rear bumpers?
After a year my powder coat started to chip and is rusty now. I'm on year three and I actually just took mine off the rig this weekend to get it properly painted up.

The truck is so much quieter, didn't realize how much noise that thing was causing when going down the back roads .

Even with a heavy dose of anti seize the hardware provided rusted up bad, I suppose air tools would have helped remove it but it took a while remove the hardware. I'm going to have to re tap all the holes get it cleaned up and put new hardware in.

In comparison to my front arb bumper which has 0 rust and is rock solid it's hard to say if I'll put this BIO bumper back on again
 
After a year my powder coat started to chip and is rusty now. I'm on year three and I actually just took mine off the rig this weekend to get it properly painted up.

The truck is so much quieter, didn't realize how much noise that thing was causing when going down the back roads .

Even with a heavy dose of anti seize the hardware provided rusted up bad, I suppose air tools would have helped remove it but it took a while remove the hardware. I'm going to have to re tap all the holes get it cleaned up and put new hardware in.

In comparison to my front arb bumper which has 0 rust and is rock solid it's hard to say if I'll put this BIO bumper back on again
Mike, if you decide to sell it I'm interested.
 
Mike, if you decide to sell it I'm interested.

I'm struggling with what the right decision is on the bumper. My stock spare tire carrier doesn't exist anymore so I am kind of needing a way to mount the spare and may be destined to re-paint and install this back on my rig.

Will see how much time / cost it will take to get it re-painted.
 
I'm struggling with what the right decision is on the bumper. My stock spare tire carrier doesn't exist anymore so I am kind of needing a way to mount the spare and may be destined to re-paint and install this back on my rig.

Will see how much time / cost it will take to get it re-painted.
FYI I have spare a spare tire winch/apparatus stuff that I would sell for a reasonable price. Shipping might not be worth it but if you have any plans to roll through Denver...
 
FYI I have spare a spare tire winch/apparatus stuff that I would sell for a reasonable price. Shipping might not be worth it but if you have any plans to roll through Denver...
Thanks for the offer.

When I removed the BIO bumper it left the welded nuts in the frame in a pretty haggard state. Not really lining up properly anymore and the rusted bolts probably put a hurting on the threads when I removed them.

First step on my end is to see if I can run a tap through it and save the threads, if not I need to make a plan B

Local shop says they will re-powder coat for under $400 so it may be worth saving.


>> Anyone else have a bunch of noise coming from their rear BIO bumper or perhaps I installed it not centered and it was hitting the fenders? All I know is now that it's off my truck is a lot quieter riding around town.
 
Thanks for the offer.

When I removed the BIO bumper it left the welded nuts in the frame in a pretty haggard state. Not really lining up properly anymore and the rusted bolts probably put a hurting on the threads when I removed them.

First step on my end is to see if I can run a tap through it and save the threads, if not I need to make a plan B

Local shop says they will re-powder coat for under $400 so it may be worth saving.


>> Anyone else have a bunch of noise coming from their rear BIO bumper or perhaps I installed it not centered and it was hitting the fenders? All I know is now that it's off my truck is a lot quieter riding around town.
I have a high clearance rear with a tire swing out. Mine starts to rattle and make noise when the swing out clamp needs adjustment. About 1/4 turn on the 2 nuts then it’s tight and quiet again. Other than that I cannot see how it could make noise. Something must have been loose or rattling against the vehicle somewhere. Just check everything when you reinstall it. You could call Mike and ask him about it too, he is a great guy. Good luck!
 
I have a high clearance rear with a tire swing out. Mine starts to rattle and make noise when the swing out clamp needs adjustment. About 1/4 turn on the 2 nuts then it’s tight and quiet again. Other than that I cannot see how it could make noise. Something must have been loose or rattling against the vehicle somewhere. Just check everything when you reinstall it. You could call Mike and ask him about it too, he is a great guy. Good luck!
Yeah good call on that, I have noticed very small adjustments to the clamp are necessary to keep the swingout from knocking around.

I'm not sure what was causing it, all I know is now that it's off the ride is much quieter. Hmmmm.
 
Update on my rear bumper.

I was able to save the welded nuts in the frame which is a relief, so far so good. Seems like a lot of crap collects in the frame and that caused the weld to break. I was able to run a tap ( M14 x 1.5 ) through all of those holes.

Dropping the bumper off at the powder coater next. They claim they will strip it down, zinc paint prime it, and then powder it for around $350, seems worth it.

Pictures below show the inside of the frame and bumper rust.

>> Would it be crazy to park on an incline and let the garden hose run in the frame with the hopes of flushing all that mud out or will I make things worse?

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I'm struggling with what the right decision is on the bumper. My stock spare tire carrier doesn't exist anymore so I am kind of needing a way to mount the spare and may be destined to re-paint and install this back on my rig.

Will see how much time / cost it will take to get it re-painted.
Blast it, re-powder coat and add a matt clear top coat to keep it from fading out & rusting.
 
Blast it, re-powder coat and add a matt clear top coat to keep it from fading out & rusting.


Good advice , thanks .

Is it possible the truck rides rougher with the bumper installed because of my springs ? I have old man emu installed but I think I went with the light duty option. I gotta imagine that's better than stock.

Im hoping I just didn't have the bumper centered properly and it was contacting the body a bit since I see some rust / contact marks on the vehicle.

There's definetly a huge difference in vehicle noise when I'm hitting bumps and dirt roads, handling feels the same.

I'm kind of dredding putting it back on and it getting rough again. All this time I was blaming E rated tires and interior panels but with the bumper off it rides and sounds like a nice plush cruiser should.
 
Update on my rear bumper.

I was able to save the welded nuts in the frame which is a relief, so far so good. Seems like a lot of crap collects in the frame and that caused the weld to break. I was able to run a tap ( M14 x 1.5 ) through all of those holes.

Dropping the bumper off at the powder coater next. They claim they will strip it down, zinc paint prime it, and then powder it for around $350, seems worth it.

Pictures below show the inside of the frame and bumper rust.

>> Would it be crazy to park on an incline and let the garden hose run in the frame with the hopes of flushing all that mud out or will I make things worse?

View attachment 2636718
What does one have to do if those nuts are in the frame rails crooked to the point that you cant thread the bolt in? Came across this when trying to mount a hitch
 
What does one have to do if those nuts are in the frame rails crooked to the point that you cant thread the bolt in? Came across this when trying to mount a hitch

I was able to just put a metal punch type tool in from the bottom and just flex it around to get it centered. It was more of a pain than it sounds. Once sort of centered I ran a m14x1.5 tap through it to help the bolt go in easier. Put the bolt in about half way and then repeated the process on the other side.

This will be harder when the time comes to mount a bumper or trailer hitch since once I remove the bolts that are in now the welded nuts kind of go crooked again.
 

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