Pulled out the power steering box today and exhaust. Whoever worked on it last definitely didn't use a torque wrench. Those suckers were extremely tight. Also disconnected the fuel lines from the tank.
Tomorrow I'll pull the fuel and brake lines and start cutting out the old engine and transmission mounts.
Started wiring. Got the DBW pedal wired and mount made to fit the 80. Got most of the interface between the old harness and new ecm done. Still need to sort out emissions and the EFI relay. Probably some others ha.
My local steel place is mostly closed due to covid so I had to order steel for the motor mounts online. While waiting for that I decided I'd work on a project I've been putting off for a few months - putting in a rear winch. Got the mount for the warn m12000 welded in.
I got it started - no coolant and not much ATF in there so its pretty short. Also got the exhaust in. I started with a factory 2uz exhaust knock off from an Ebay vendor. I had to move the passenger side cats aft of the transfer case and slightly squish the pipe that goes along the passenger frame rail to squeeze it between the frame and transmission/transfercase.
Here is the first start. It didn't continue running since the MAF was not plumbed
Here is some exhaust routing stuff:
I plumbed in the MAF and power steering. Hoping to get some real street cred with the AN fittings and aluminum.
I reused the factory FJ80 filter box. I really like the vortex design and particle trap. I'm a bit worried about the proximity of the rubber PS fluid return to the header (about 1.5" from the headers heat shield). I've got some Earls flame shield on order that was originally for the fuel supply and return hard lines near the drivers side catalytic converters. I'll probably poach a foot of that, or reroute it under the air filter box. TBD.
I've had a bit of an issue w/ the throttle. The throttle would go to what seemed like throttle, but if I pushed the pedal any further would go to idle. I was thinking this was fail safe mode, but fail safe requires the user to turn of the car and turn it back on to unlatch the fault. Mine, you can just reset by releasing the pedal to zero and resuming. In any case - I tried a new throttle body and accel pedal position sensor. Same issue with each. So I just inspected the new TB w/ the aid of a brick to see how far open it would go. Its going to 100% WOT. So I'll make an adjustable mechanical stop on the pedal to keep it from over running WOT. Figured future 2uz swappers might want to know about that issue.
I also sanded the old finish, fixed a few dents, primed, sanded and repainted. I went w/ an industrial paint called IMRON 3.5 HG+. Its a single stage paint and it's supposed to be real tough. It was quite a bit cheaper than going w/ a traditional base/clear combo. Got a bit of paint on the tire threads, but that should come off in a few wheeling trips I think.