Builds Building Barbara - FJ80 Build Thread

Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Pulled out the power steering box today and exhaust. Whoever worked on it last definitely didn't use a torque wrench. Those suckers were extremely tight. Also disconnected the fuel lines from the tank.

IMG_20200324_185831.jpg


IMG_20200324_185820.jpg


Tomorrow I'll pull the fuel and brake lines and start cutting out the old engine and transmission mounts.
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Got the original motor and transmission mounts cut out. I've gotta fill in a couple gouges from cutting which I'll do when I weld in the new mounts.

IMG_20200325_165717.jpg


Got the new motor and transmission roughly in place. The exhaust is pretty tight so I moved the brake and fuel lines. They'll probably go on the outside of the frame above the sliders I think.
IMG_20200328_182231_644.jpg

IMG_20200328_165806.jpg

IMG_20200328_165758.jpg


I'm making motor and transmission mounts from leaf spring bushings. Need to get some steel for that tomorrow morning.
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Started wiring. Got the DBW pedal wired and mount made to fit the 80. Got most of the interface between the old harness and new ecm done. Still need to sort out emissions and the EFI relay. Probably some others ha.
IMG_20200401_153218.jpg

IMG_20200404_143759.jpg


My local steel place is mostly closed due to covid so I had to order steel for the motor mounts online. While waiting for that I decided I'd work on a project I've been putting off for a few months - putting in a rear winch. Got the mount for the warn m12000 welded in.

IMG_20200405_182026.jpg


IMG_20200401_153218.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
I got it started - no coolant and not much ATF in there so its pretty short. Also got the exhaust in. I started with a factory 2uz exhaust knock off from an Ebay vendor. I had to move the passenger side cats aft of the transfer case and slightly squish the pipe that goes along the passenger frame rail to squeeze it between the frame and transmission/transfercase.

Here is the first start. It didn't continue running since the MAF was not plumbed

Here is some exhaust routing stuff:
IMG_20200423_184753.jpg


IMG_20200423_192136.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
I plumbed in the MAF and power steering. Hoping to get some real street cred with the AN fittings and aluminum.

IMG_20200505_104353.jpg


I reused the factory FJ80 filter box. I really like the vortex design and particle trap. I'm a bit worried about the proximity of the rubber PS fluid return to the header (about 1.5" from the headers heat shield). I've got some Earls flame shield on order that was originally for the fuel supply and return hard lines near the drivers side catalytic converters. I'll probably poach a foot of that, or reroute it under the air filter box. TBD.

IMG_20200505_105558.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
I've had a bit of an issue w/ the throttle. The throttle would go to what seemed like throttle, but if I pushed the pedal any further would go to idle. I was thinking this was fail safe mode, but fail safe requires the user to turn of the car and turn it back on to unlatch the fault. Mine, you can just reset by releasing the pedal to zero and resuming. In any case - I tried a new throttle body and accel pedal position sensor. Same issue with each. So I just inspected the new TB w/ the aid of a brick to see how far open it would go. Its going to 100% WOT. So I'll make an adjustable mechanical stop on the pedal to keep it from over running WOT. Figured future 2uz swappers might want to know about that issue.

I also sanded the old finish, fixed a few dents, primed, sanded and repainted. I went w/ an industrial paint called IMRON 3.5 HG+. Its a single stage paint and it's supposed to be real tough. It was quite a bit cheaper than going w/ a traditional base/clear combo. Got a bit of paint on the tire threads, but that should come off in a few wheeling trips I think.

IMG_20200528_185837.jpg
IMG_20200530_171426.jpg
IMG_20200531_183846.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Messages
25
Location
Frisco Co
I've had a bit of an issue w/ the throttle. The throttle would go to what seemed like throttle, but if I pushed the pedal any further would go to idle. I was thinking this was fail safe mode, but fail safe requires the user to turn of the car and turn it back on to unlatch the fault. Mine, you can just reset by releasing the pedal to zero and resuming. In any case - I tried a new throttle body and accel pedal position sensor. Same issue with each. So I just inspected the new TB w/ the aid of a brick to see how far open it would go. Its going to 100% WOT. So I'll make an adjustable mechanical stop on the pedal to keep it from over running WOT. Figured future 2uz swappers might want to know about that issue.

I also sanded the old finish, fixed a few dents, primed, sanded and repainted. I went w/ an industrial paint called IMRON 3.5 HG+. Its a single stage paint and it's supposed to be real tough. It was quite a bit cheaper than going w/ a traditional base/clear combo. Got a bit of paint on the tire threads, but that should come off in a few wheeling trips I think.

View attachment 2326700View attachment 2326701View attachment 2326702
I like the color!
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
46
Location
Okanagan
 
 
Fantastic write up, thanks. I do believe you will never misplace your truck.

Thanks for al the great photos, the engine looks right at home in there, and your exhaust is monumental! I hope you can post a photo of the exhaust from the under side to show the way you routed it all.
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Fantastic write up, thanks. I do believe you will never misplace your truck.

Thanks for al the great photos, the engine looks right at home in there, and your exhaust is monumental! I hope you can post a photo of the exhaust from the under side to show the way you routed it all.
Thanks!

Unfortunately its tough to take an all encompassing photo since I did it literally from the ground up. As in working from the dirt. Haha. I'll write up a summary of what products and materials I used and how I put everything together.
 
Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
66
Location
Colorado
Heres a summary of the exhaust routing. I bought some factory knock off catalytic converters from ebay.

For the drivers side the factory cats fit in no problem, but I didn't want to use the bolt flange style connectors so I cut them off. I welded on a 2" vband clamp to connect the header/manifold to the cat. I cut the back bolt flange off and welded on an elbow to bring it over the top of the rear of the transfer case, driveshaft/ujoint. This stuff was all 2.5". This area took some careful consideraton to avoid interference with the rotating assembly. I welded on another elbow to turn it towards the back. The elbows were cut out of a 2.5" mandrel bent u-bend. I highly recomment just buying some u bends in the sizes you specify in favor of trying to get matched 45deg or whatever bends. This bend back was extended to a 2.5" to 3" Y pipe (see second picture).

The passenger side cats did not fit where the opriginal location. I think the 80's have a little bit narrower of a frame than the 100s or other 2uz donors. So I cut off the header to cat flanges on both, cut out both cats, and the drop down elbow. I used the elbow to get the exhaust to be about level w/ the frame rail. I tacked in my 2" vband to connect the down pipe to the pipe to carry the exhaust back. This took a bit of finessing too. I had to notch and bend the straight pipe and crush the pipe to be a bit of an oval to give some space to the transfer case on the right side of the first picture. I welded in the passenger side cats where the 80's factory muffler would ride. The cats basically immediately dump to the Y pipe.

From the Y pipe its all 3" tubing. I originally was going to try to dump out the exhaust in front of the passenger rear tire, but I didn't have space. So I had to route the exhaust following most of the original path (see second picture). For this I didn't have enough mandrel bent pipe, but I did have enough striaght. So I used the chop saw and cut about a dozen or so 15 degree pie slices. You can use these like an elbow for home duct work or a stove pipe to create very nice bends w/o a bender. You just need to think about where it needs to go before you start putting it together. Anyway after I got the 3" pie cuts routed to be just aft of the cross member where the panhard rod connects I started planning my muffler placement. I should also note that I put a V band between the muffler and Y pipe tucked up nice and high. I also had V bands between the Cats and Y pipe. These really make it way easier to get out/apart.

Mounting the muffler was a bit tricky w/ the rear winch in there, but it fits ok and its not too loud.

IMG_20200422_171116.jpg


IMG_20200423_192117.jpg
 
Top Bottom