Build Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40

[fjwagon]

.....but it seems like the clamp on the carb and the cable end should line up better. When clamping the cable it feels like the brass end of the cable should lad between the clamps on the carb otherwise I’m just squashing the cable. Thoughts?
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I think you called it right. I'm not so sure if the accelerator cable is touching the black cable located above it...but is I would suggest t-wrap it or reroute it so they do not rub. The vibration will eventually wear the insulation and ground it out. You could possibly put spacer to bring down the accelerator cable...I guess once you start messing with you will figure it out. By the way, nice work, you possibly saved this cruiser from being parted out.

 

[bdawg23]

I think you called it right. I'm not so sure if the accelerator cable is touching the black cable located above it...but is I would suggest t-wrap it or reroute it so they do not rub. The vibration will eventually wear the insulation and ground it out. You could possibly put spacer to bring down the accelerator cable...I guess once you start messing with you will figure it out. By the way, nice work, you possibly saved this cruiser from being parted out.

That’s the choke cable possibly rubbing the wire that runs to the idle cylinoid. I’ll check it out and see if I can clean this up or protect the wire better. Thanks!

 

[bdawg23]

Well I was hoping to finish getting the windows on the doors updated with new felts and belts but I somehow ended up with inner felts that fit and outer belts that fit but no inner belts and no outer felts

EDIT: There are not outer felts at least on my year. I just need to order the outer metal plate with the clips to hold down the weather stripping.

 

[bdawg23]

Ok, so door weather stripping and belts...

Turns out the inner only gets a felt and the outer gets the weather stripping. I just need to order the outer metal plate with the clips to put on the weather stripping.

New exhaust is on but it wasn't without a VERY bad moment. A few miles from the shop and the front started feeling extra vague. Turns out I almost lost a front wheel. All the lug nuts loosened up because I must have not tightened them properly after putting on the wheels. Those are all metal shavings from the studs which now need replaced

Here is a quick clip of the truck running with the new exhaust:


Also very dumb of me and I don't know if the flapper valve was here and it fell out when I first got the exhaust and intake manifold or if I just never noticed but what are folks doing to block off the heat exchange flapper shaft? I saw a post where folks have welded that shut. The other side has the plug in place. Getting a nice exhaust leak here that is really taking away from the new exhaust. Open to guidance here...

Also realized I have no rear brake lights today. I looked at the brake pedal switch and it wasn't plugged in but what's worse is that I can't seem to find where it plugs into the harness. There are no matching plugs nearby

 

[EWheeler]

Exhaust sounds great! What are the specs on pipe diameter and muffler choice?

 

[bdawg23]

Exhaust sounds great! What are the specs on pipe diameter and muffler choice?

2.5 inch from exhaust manifold to a Xlerator 6494 muffler and then 2.5 inches to the exhaust tip.

Also just noticing that that right rear shackle...maybe its the camera angle but it doesn't look very good. Feel like that should be perpendicular to the top hanger...

 

[TwelveGravity]

I don't know how accurate this is but by the looks of it theres a few wires that leave the brake switch then make their way over to this plastic plug? It was hard to get a decent picture with my phone and everything being tuck up back there but maybe it'll help.

 

[bdawg23]

I don't know how accurate this is but by the looks of it theres a few wires that leave the brake switch then make their way over to this plastic plug? It was hard to get a decent picture with my phone and everything being tuck up back there but maybe it'll help.

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Thank you, helpful for sure. I have a plug from the brake switch that is missing a plug into the main harness. Strange though cause I had brake lights before. I’ll keep looking

 

[bdawg23]

Found a friend who offered to help me with the welding project to close up the exhaust manifold hole.

Maybe not necessary but pulled the exhaust manifold to make sure we could weld this up perfectly the first time.

So much for having a running truck by 2026

Also looks like a nice crack on the intake manifold and I’m guessing I didn’t care when reassembled because I have a block off plate installed.

Have a great NYE’s y’all!

 

[60 40]

Looks like you are moving along well and learning new things about your rig as well as avoided danger with the loose lug nuts. Too bad you will have to replace them but that's not so bad.


Make sure your guy knows what he's doing or do some research, my understanding is that welding cast iron can cause issues with cracking if certain steps aren't followed especially in the cooling process.

Happy New Year!

 

[bdawg23]

Looks like you are moving along well and learning new things about your rig as well as avoided danger with the loose lug nuts. Too bad you will have to replace them but that's not so bad.


Make sure your guy knows what he's doing or do some research, my understanding is that welding cast iron can cause issues with cracking if certain steps aren't followed especially in the cooling process.

Happy New Year!

Thanks! At this point it’s frustrating to take something apart again but at least it’s familiar and everting comes apart easily since most of the bolts are new

Thanks for the cast iron call out. He is a welder by trade but I’ll bring it up and do some reading tonight too.

 

[60 40]

You pretty much have to like taking things apart or be willing to pay someone else to do it if you own an old 40 like this.

I'm thinking in your current situation it might be easier to buy or find a replacement break drum, many including myself have these lying around as scrap in our part hording pile. Similarly lots of us have swapped out the exhaust manifold for headers so the old manifolds stashed in shed just taking up space. Put up a classified add if you find someone local the shipping won't kill the deal.

 

[knuckle47]

It’s been a long time ..but back in the 1980’s I kinda remember something like this intake manifold crack was common issue. My own 75 has had this repaired. I discovered it when I installed the Holley Sniper. Someone did do a nice job on it. I also have a spare 2F intake manifold “incase”. Welding that should be fine in my opinion

 

[cruisermatt]

Congrats on getting on the road Brandon.. now fix those rear U-Joints which are out of phase.

 

[bdawg23]

It’s been a long time ..but back in the 1980’s I kinda remember something like this intake manifold crack was common issue. My own 75 has had this repaired. I discovered it when I installed the Holley Sniper. Someone did do a nice job on it. I also have a spare 2F intake manifold “incase”. Welding that should be fine in my opinion

Thank you! Im thinking that adding to cast iron and not trying to repair a crack should make this straight forward but ya never know

 

[bdawg23]

Heat flapper update, didn’t weld it.

Visited a friend of mine and he wouldn’t weld it. He said it’s too nice of an OEM part and welding it could weaken the cast iron leading to a crack now or however long from now.

Probably good advice but in really wanted to seal this thing up!

In the meantime this is what I did to block the hole.

My thought was I’m not damaging the hole this way and I could order the flapper assembly eventually to repair it properly.

 

[60 40]

I like it.

If you flipped it with the nut on the outside you would have the ability to re tighten by holding the bolt after it inevitably comes loose. This also would allow you to use two nuts to lock it if you wanted.

Downside is it would be less attractive.

 

[bdawg23]

I like it.

If you flipped it with the nut on the outside you would have the ability to re tighten by holding the bolt after it inevitably comes loose. This also would allow you to use two nuts to lock it if you wanted.

Downside is it would be less attractive.

Good idea with the two nuts, I was trying to find a metal locknut at the hardware store but they only had nylon lock nuts in metric for that size bolt.

I was going to drill out the other side an run a threaded rod across with nuts on the outside but i didn’t want to drill another hole.

 

[bdawg23]

Ok, I’m lost here. I could have sworn I was looking for a connector from the harness for the brake switch but I can’t seem to find where I plug this in. Am I totally missing something here?

I have the plugs for the cluster pulled around the outlet side for now but I’m pretty sure they aren’t relative here but I’ve been wrong before..

I’m on the start of a two week work trip (Anaheim and then Austin) so I’ll dig into this when I get back.

 

[knuckle47]

Boy, work can sure be a pita