Build Build: Rusty Pumpkin Project 74' FJ40

[bdawg23]

Anyone know if I should be using an ignitor with this setup I have currently?

I believe it's a semi-electronic distributor and coil with internal resistor. Refresher pics below if it helps;

 

[bdawg23]

Alright still no spark but I got the new fuel line installed and it looks sweet! Thanks @cruisermatt !

Also, I think the ignition I have the black box inside the dizzy is the igniter in my system so under need an external igniter.

I’ve got continuity between coil and coil wire going to center of dizzy, 12v across the dizzy, can get a plug to spark with the coil hooked up to the battery, checked the center spring loaded contact on the dizzy cap and I have continuity from contact point on top to spring loaded contact point below.

Really don’t know what’s left to check here

 

[TwelveGravity]

View attachment 4009767

What is going on in this area with the 4 hose clamps?

 

[TwelveGravity]

Following, for inspirational purposes

 

[charliemeyer007]

They were on sale buy 2 get 2 free

 

[RevISK]

What is going on in this area with the 4 hose clamps?

View attachment 4018105

Couldn’t fit 6

 

[bdawg23]

What is going on in this area with the 4 hose clamps?

View attachment 4018105

It’s where the

What is going on in this area with the 4 hose clamps?

View attachment 4018105

it’s where this part goes, I had one on each side prior and felt like having some redundancy would be better than a single clamp on each side. Seemed like something that could fail. I don’t have heat installed so it’s just the straight pipe without the heater port.

 

[knuckle47]

@bdawg23 if you decide in the future you want to add heat I have 3 complete heater systems I have re-built, re foamed and re-painted just as rainy day projects at the house. All have rear heater assemblies as well. I may have a 4th once the a/c goes in this winter. I don’t take her out in snow or slop but it’s been 40* in the am and 55* in the afternoon on some gorgeous sunny days where the little bit of added heat was really nice.

I enjoyed your video but hate the stall in progress due to this electrical thing. Hope you get it resolved quickly. Next video I want to see it running. I know you do too

 

[bdawg23]

@bdawg23 if you decide in the future you want to add heat I have 3 complete heater systems I have re-built, re foamed and re-painted just as rainy day projects at the house. All have rear heater assemblies as well. I may have a 4th once the a/c goes in this winter. I don’t take her out in snow or slop but it’s been 40* in the am and 55* in the afternoon on some gorgeous sunny days where the little bit of added heat was really nice.

I enjoyed your video but hate the stall in progress due to this electrical thing. Hope you get it resolved quickly. Next video I want to see it running. I know you do too

I will want to add heat for sure. I love these cold clear crisp mornings we’ve been getting in central PA.

ME TOO!

I might try asking around to any local mechanics to see if they’d come over and take a look.

I have two weeks of work travel starting tonight (including EICMA, which I bet you’d like!) so this will be sitting idle for a bit.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Ahh, so you deleted the heater port. It would be nice if someone made a 1 piece hose if one choses to delete the heater. Did you also remove and plug where it ties in up on the top of the head?

 

[bdawg23]

Ahh, so you deleted the heater port. It would be nice if someone made a 1 piece hose if one choses to delete the heater. Did you also remove and plug where it ties in up on the top of the head?

View attachment 4018567

View attachment 4018568

Yea, for now this is what the block had on it but I’ll put some set screw plugs in the clean this up eventually. I do want to add heat back into the truck but the old heater setup was jank and full of rust so I deleted it.

 

[bdawg23]

Alright, my next move is to replace the dizzy to see if this fixes my lack of spark. I had some feedback that the dizzy I bought is a Chinese knockoff and there is a good chance it was DOA. I can't figure out anything else after all this trouble shooting so if anyone has a points dizzy laying around they want to sell send me a message!

 

[bdawg23]

Alright, my next move is to replace the dizzy to see if this fixes my lack of spark. I had some feedback that the dizzy I bought is a Chinese knockoff and there is a good chance it was DOA. I can't figure out anything else after all this trouble shooting so if anyone has a points dizzy laying around they want to sell send me a message!

It must be Sunday...I'm ordering more Land Cruiser parts Just ordered a new distributor no need to check your garages anymore

 

[bdawg23]

WE'VE GOT SPARK!!

Replaced the dizzy with Toyota unit with points and got spark first try. Sprayed a little carb cleaner in the carb and it lit off with a few burbles.

However after a few minutes the coil was already very warm and I think something isn't correct with the wiring. Even with the key off I'm getting 12V at the black/yellow wire on the coil.
- I disconnected engine ground and still got 12v at black/yellow wire with key off
- I turned key off and 12v stayed at black/yellow wire

I pulled the ignition fuses and no longer had 12V with key off at black/yellow wire. When I turned the key to ON, I then got 12v at the black/yellow wire. This makes me think that somewhere in this circuit I have something shorting out connecting the circuit.

I wonder if this is also related to the ammeter not being connected? When I tried to connect the ammeter the wires sparked and all the truck lights came on (really hoping I didn't blow out my new headlights!). Currently have the white wire and white/blue wire connected directly to each other because I cannot connect them to the ammeter without sparks. I check the ammeter and I've got continuity from one post on the ammeter to the frame of the gauge cluster which I'm thinking is causing a short.

At least I've got spark now, I guess??

 

[pb4ugo]

Be careful when dealing with the cluster and the ammeter. If either of the ammeter post were to ground out or its wires, you could burn up the wiring harness. It's best to disconnect the batt b4 removing the cluster or the ammeter wires . The 2 posts on the ammeter should be insulated by the gauge from ground. Power goes thru the ammeter gauge, nothing more. You can bypass the ammeter by connecting the white wire coming from the batt to the white blue wire that connect to the other side of the ammeter.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Wiring diagram, test light and VOM. I had my wiring diagram blown up to 18x36 and laminated - much easier to work with.

You have an engine ground and frame/chassis ground. Removing the negative terminal at the battery should remove power from all systems

 

[bdawg23]

Be careful when dealing with the cluster and the ammeter. If either of the ammeter post were to ground out or its wires, you could burn up the wiring harness. It's best to disconnect the batt b4 removing the cluster or the ammeter wires . The 2 posts on the ammeter should be insulated by the gauge from ground. Power goes thru the ammeter gauge, nothing more. You can bypass the ammeter by connecting the white wire coming from the batt to the white blue wire that connect to the other side of the ammeter.

Good reminder here, thank you!

I also disconnect the battery when making any wiring changes, adjustments, and then reconnect.

I do have the ammeter bypassed at the moment with the white wire and white/blue wire connected together. If I try and add the ammeter into the circuit it starts to short out. Could this be a faulty ammeter or would something else cause this short?

 

[pb4ugo]

Keep in mind all the power supplied either from the alt or batt goes thru the ammeter. The ammeter shows the direction of the electricity, charging or discharging. The white wire supplies all the power to the vehicle and fuse box, all keyed and non keyed circuits. The white/Blue wire is basically power from the alt side. If you were to have a direct short you may see smoke and heavy sparkage and possible frying of wires and most likely a blown fusible link, or blown fuses. I think ever so slight spark may not be uncommon. You may have something turned on or a possible short in a sub circuit causing discharge. A digital radio has to draw some power to keep time and provide power to memory for the presets.

 

[bdawg23]

Keep in mind all the power supplied either from the alt or batt goes thru the ammeter. The ammeter shows the direction of the electricity, charging or discharging. The white wire supplies all the power to the vehicle and fuse box, all keyed and non keyed circuits. The white/Blue wire is basically power from the alt side. If you were to have a direct short you may see smoke and heavy sparkage and possible frying of wires and most likely a blown fusible link, or blown fuses. I think ever so slight spark may not be uncommon. You may have something turned on or a possible short in a sub circuit causing discharge. A digital radio has to draw some power to keep time and provide power to memory for the presets.

Thanks for covering this. I had the harness completely out of the truck, removed the tape and spent time tracing wires with the wiring diagram so this info is great as it reinforces what I saw. The time with the harness out of the truck was still brief and I there are still a lot of nuances that I don't know. Def appreciate nuggets like this to help reinforce what I'm looking at. Thank you !

 

[bdawg23]

Wiring diagram, test light and VOM. I had my wiring diagram blown up to 18x36 and laminated - much easier to work with.

You have an engine ground and frame/chassis ground. Removing the negative terminal at the battery should remove power from all systems

This got me thinking on how to test the circuit for constant draw.
- first I removed the negative from the battery
- connected white wire to fusible link on battery +
- key OFF, I tested for voltage across the black/yellow wire and distributor, I had about .08 to .26 volts, it was fluctuating constantly

This tells me there is still power reaching the coil/dizzy through the black/yellow wire with the key OFF

Next I switched the multimeter to ohms to check for continuity:
- I checked for continuity across black/yellow wire and distributor, this was 0
- next I checked across white wire and black/yellow wire and I had about continuity

So if I'm thinking about this correctly, this is telling me that even with the key OFF, there is still a connection between the black/yellow wire and the white wire from the battery which is causing a constant draw situation.

To check this I disconnected the white wire from the white/blue wire (they meet at the ammeter) and I no longer had continuity between black/yellow and white wire. I also lost 12v at the coil which would make sense as the white/blue wire carries power to the fuse block and losing 12v at the coil means there are no other power sources to the fuse block/coil.

looking at the wiring diagram another place the black/yellow wire and white/blue wire come together is at the ignition switch so I think my next move is to remove the ignition switch to see if I can rule the switch out as being good or bad before going further into the fuse panel.

When I bought the truck it had a constant drain problem and the battery would go dead if sitting for a week so this issue isn't new just rearing its face to me because I didn't fix it before rebuilding the motor lol