Brown Spark Plug Boot (1 Viewer)

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Through a series of fortunate events, I managed to get the full history of my LX all the way back to 2003, and found it had been nearly exclusively Lexus serviced. 60 pages. But in that 60 pages, somehow Lexus had never replaced the spark plugs? I hopped right on it, got them done no problem. They were in pretty sad shape, but the truck was still running fine.

But, one sparkie was particularly nasty, and the boot had browned around it. See photo. My gut tells me this is likely from exhaust that was seeping out from the edges of the plug as it may have loosened a bit over 230,000 miles. The browning on the top of the plug indicates that as well. Thoughts? Anything to be concerned about? Thanks.

put that poor sparkie out of its misery
 
Solution
Same happened here for one out of the eight of mine. I didn’t replace but should have since you can buy the boot itself. Also be aware of using anti seize on the plugs. There’s a write up about it from 2001lc.
Same happened here for one out of the eight of mine. I didn’t replace but should have since you can buy the boot itself. Also be aware of using anti seize on the plugs. There’s a write up about it from 2001lc.
 
Solution
Same happened here for one out of the eight of mine. I didn’t replace but should have since you can buy the boot itself. Also be aware of using anti seize on the plugs. There’s a write up about it from 2001lc.
Thanks for the heads up no anti-sieze. I used it. Hadn't seen @2001LC 's post . I just did it 2 days ago -- should I worry about it now, or wait 30k like you mentioned and redo them with new plugs? I guess I could pull them out sometime this week and clean all the anti-seize off of it that I can. Or re-do the job entirely. Any recc's?
 
If it were me, I'd pull them and clean the threads off. Make sure the new plugs are torqued properly to around 16-18ft-lbs.

I check my plugs torque about every 6 to 8 months. So far no issues.
 
If it were me, I'd pull them and clean the threads off. Make sure the new plugs are torqued properly to around 16-18ft-lbs.

I check my plugs torque about every 6 to 8 months. So far no issues.
I imagine some anti-sieze will be down in the threads of the block. Any recommendations for how to safely clean that out without leaving dust/paper towel residue? Or maybe better to leave that alone. Sorry, newbie over here

Edit: I guess I could pull the sparkplug, clean it, thread it all the way back in, pull it again, and repeat until there is approx. no anti-seize left.
 
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I imagine some anti-sieze will be down in the threads of the block. Any recommendations for how to safely clean that out without leaving dust/paper towel residue? Or maybe better to leave that alone. Sorry, newbie over here

Edit: I guess I could pull the sparkplug, clean it, thread it all the way back in, pull it again, and repeat until there is approx. no anti-seize left.

I wouldn't be concerned about paper towel residue. That will be burned up in the combustion process. Just take caution so that no other debris gets into the cylinder.
 
I'd guess it to be a leaking spark plug seal. While in there, you will want to change the valve cover gasket(s) and washer seals as well.
 
Toyota makes no specification for a parts number for just the boot, not the full coil. Anyone know where I can get just the boot? I dont see it on toyotapartsdeal.com, unless i missed it; I only see the full coil .

a1_190500B.jpg
 
Denso is the OE manufacturer for LC100 Coil Packs....
 
There's also duralast cp091. I bought these a while back and they seem to be pretty good quality. They had them in stock at autozone.
 
Well, once you 'break the seal,' it could certainly leak. Would hate to do the job twice and at 233k, it likely needs changing anyway.

 
Well, once you 'break the seal,' it could certainly leak. Would hate to do the job twice and at 233k, it likely needs changing anyway.

This is on my to-do list. Mine has a small leak that the dealer found.
 
I got them cleaned and reinstalled, and engine runs fine. I did use the contact cleaner on them. But I got the classic lights: Engine, VSC Trac, and VSC Off, like mentioned in this thread. I got no after my first install. But after reinstall, I'm getting errors. I unplugged the negative terminal on the battery during the second install. I did not during the first install. It drives fine and all electrical systems are working fine. I'm assuming unplugging the battery may have done something, as mentioned in the thread linked above? Edit: went out 30 mins later, cranked again, and lights went away. Nevermind.
 
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I imagine some anti-sieze will be down in the threads of the block. Any recommendations for how to safely clean that out without leaving dust/paper towel residue? Or maybe better to leave that alone. Sorry, newbie over here

Edit: I guess I could pull the sparkplug, clean it, thread it all the way back in, pull it again, and repeat until there is approx. no anti-seize left.

Use a cheap microfiber towel like you can get in the $10 packs for set of 10, won't leave residue and you cant "lose" a chunk of it in a cylinder.

Here is what you are looking for to service the OEM coil packs. You can replace just the rubber boots/gasket/spring so long as the coil itself isn't burnt and cracked.

Amazon product ASIN B00FRMAL8M
Last note is on torque specs (grabbing from @flintknapper vs making you read another thread)

Valve cover bolts: (4.4 Ft lbs.) 53 Inch Pounds
Coil Packs: (5.5 Ft lbs.) 66 Inch Pounds
Spark Plugs: 13 Ft lbs. 156 inch pounds.

Would highly recommend using inch pounds as my ft lbs wrench at such low specs will not be accurate. A 1/4" inch lbs wrench is the ticket as you can be very specific. Check your valve cover bolts as you might be able to get away with just tightening them for now.

If reinstalling previously installed spark plugs keep in mind the crush washer will have already been crushed. So you will want to give it some extra.
 
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