Check engine, VSC TRAC and VSC OFF Lights

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TurbineTester

TurbineTester

Joined
Apr 28, 2016
Threads
20
Messages
172
Location
Georgia,USA
Good morning all,

I've been driving my "New To Me" 07 100 Series Land Cruiser since May with no issues at all. Last week the three lights mentioned above all lit up. No problems with driving or cranking or anything else as far as I can tell. I went to an auto store and pulled the following codes.

Current - C1201 - Engine Control System Malfunctions

Current - C1223 - Malfunction in Antilock Brake System Control System

Current - C1241 - Low Battery Positive Voltage or Abnormally High Battery Positive Voltage

Current - C1246 - Malfunction in Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor

Current - P0504 - Brake Switch A / B Correlation

Current - B2799 - Engine Immobilizer System Malfunction

History - P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

I've done some basic research but I'm getting a little overwhelmed. The C1201 code calls for repairing or replacing what appears to be a $750 Engine Control System, while the C1246 seems to be a $400 pressure sensor. And everything might simply relate back to a low voltage on the battery, though I hope the alternator would compensate for that. I've had a problem with ants getting into my truck this summer do I'm wondering if they have possibly gotten into some electrical connection some where? My question for those more experienced than myself, is what code should I attempt to troubleshoot first.

Thank you all in advance for any help and guidance you can provide.
 
I'd start with battery, weak battery can create all kinds of issues. With good battery, maker sure post are clean (bright silver) and greased. Dry post will build a gray oxidation that looks clean but inhibits connection. Be sure too disconnect battery for 30 minute to reset systems.
 
P0420 is usually cat or O2 sensor. Just dealt with similar myself. But agree with @2001LC start with battery as it odd that so many came on all at once all of a sudden IMO.
 
I had been noticing that the voltage meter on the dash never seemed to get above 12V. I thought alternators usually output 14 or more volts...
 
Probably some spurious codes related to the battery voltage code so I'd clear them all and recheck in a few days. You'll either have codes that need to be investigated or nothing and you're done. You should be getting around 14.2v at 2000rpm, no load, out of your alternator (read using a meter at the battery + to chassis).
 
I stoppeded by parts store and they did a charging system check. The handheld computer didn't get very far before it kicked out an error saying that the voltage regulator on the alternator was bad. Part store, OReilley, has the part for $160. My mechanic said that the Napa part is $250 (they always use NAPA now now because of lots of failures on the other brands)and that it's about $250 in labor to do the swap because you have to take off the power steering pump to get to the alternator. So yikes, $550 to replace the alternator...
 
If I was you I would read on here about replacing it yourself. I am about to do mine as I have noticed my voltage is getting low (13.7 drops to 13.2 after it gets warm), and from everything I have read it is not a hard job. Looks to be a :banana: process so I think you could save yourself some scratch, and have it done in a couple hours. You DO NOT have to take off the pump. Most people don't even remove the pulley.

Edit: May want to take a read though this thread.
2006 Alternator replacement
 
One more thing, after reading this thread, I went and bought a Denso alternator (rebuilt, because they are all rebuilt now) on Amazon this morning for 180 bucks. Shipped to the door tomorrow afternoon. Gotta love Prime. I believe you can get the Bosch ones for a little cheaper, but I would rather stick with Denso. Just preference though. They have other brands for like 125.
 
Ok a little update. I hadnt done anything about this since my last post. This weekend I had a dead battery so I charged it up. It started the first time I after charged it, but after that the battery was totally dead, wouldn't even take a charge. I noticed that it was a Toyota battery so I took it to the dealership who replaced the battery under a prorated warranty for $75. I'm still getting the same lights on the dashboard, but the dealership says they did a charging system check and that the alternator is fine. The service manager says they get LOTS of people coming from O'Reilly and AutoZone with "bad voltage regulator" errors such turn out to be false. Good news is that according to the service records on the vehicle, the alternator is also under warranty until November if this year (1 year warranty). So now I'm very confused. Who do I believe, O'Reilly or the dealer as it relates to the alternator? If it's not the alternator, what's the next step?
 
I suppose I should swing by O'Reilly and have them clear all the codes first. Then see if they reappear before doing anything else.
 
I went by a major auto parts store yesterday yesterday and asked them to clear the codes. When I asked if he could clear the codes the guy said they were no longer allowed to do that because of a lawsuit, so all he could do was read them. I asked him to just go ahead and read the codes, and while he was outside I kind of laid it on thick and he reluctantly cleared the codes. He did tell me that AutoZone and advanced auto no longer even read codes. Seems like this may be a new policy for the does in my area at least, had any one else encountered this lately? So I guess I'll ride for a while and see if anything else comes up but man, none of the error codes except the "low battery positive voltage" mentioned the battery. It seemed like the codes mention everything BUT the battery...
 
I got back in my truck this afternoon and of course it was hot here in Georgia! Probably not heat related, but as soon as the truck started I got the check engine light again, and the two VSC error lights. I checked the codes and it only kicked out the P0420 code. Didn't mention anything about the vsc errors. So I guess I investigate the P0420 code first and then the VSC?
 
I've read a good bit about the P0420 code. Mine is a bank 2 error. I am probably going to go the spark plug defouler/extender route. Not sure which sensor I need to install the extender on though. Can anyone tell me which side of the car is bank 2 (passenger assumed) and which sensor it is (post cat assumed)?
 
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