Builds Bought our newborn a Toy (1 Viewer)

[avicenna110]

this was my first engine pullout and it went on quite smoothly until when it came to mounting it on the stand. The legs from the 2 ton crane and the 2000lb stand from HB hit each other when trying to mount the engine and I had seen some videos online of the engine falling over in the process if you do stupid things in the process. I didn't wanna rush it so it took me most of the day to do this single step. I read online that you have to lift the stand a bit and place it over the legs of the crane while the engine is up on the crane. Under no circumstance the legs of either crane or stand should be folded. This is how the engine could tip over while lowering the engine. You then lower the engine very slowly, while swinging the stand slightly to the side and on the ground.

 

[avicenna110]

The frame was stripped and I was pleased with the general condition of it.

I degreased it and started stripping the paint with an angle grinder. I spent about a day and half doing this, only to realize that I would not be able to get to all the internal and hard to reach areas. I had called a few places for sandblasting, and got ridiculous quotes. But at the end I found a place that sounded promising so I gave up on cleaning the frame myself. I got a quote over the phone which was great since I did not want to haul the frame anywhere unless I was sure I wanted to do it. The quote was $175 per hour, and it would take about 2 hours for them to sandblast it.

FYI the FJ40 frame fits perfectly in a 6x12 trailer with ramp from UHaul. I only had my wife helping me so having the ramp really helped.

Here it sits outside the sandblasting place:

 

[avicenna110]

Sandblasting is definitely the way to go. I was very impressed by the job Santa Clara Powder Coating company (Home - Santa Clara Powder - https://scpowder.com) did. They completely cleaned the frame, even in the hard to reach areas, and it took them 2 hours @175, I was so happy I tipped the workers . Here are some photos:

 

[avicenna110]

I debated what to put on the frame, at the end I went with POR15 for the frame and Eastwood internal frame coating for the internal parts. POR15 took forever to do. After degreasing the frame, you have to prep the metal with their solution. I did 2 coats of POR15 base coat, each taking 4 hours to do, following by a top coat brushed one, which took 3 hours. I then finished with a light spray coat of POR15 satin finish. Very happy with the result. You have to apply each coat when the previous one is tacky so you only have a certain window to finish the job, in my case I waited 3-4 hours between the coats. It took me all day and night to finish it so my wonderful wife had to look at our newborn alone.

 

[avicenna110]

I did the same to the axles, I am replacing all the bearings and seals after:

The suspension on the car is Old Man Emu, but very rusty. So I decided to freshen it up a bit:

the paint I used is called Steel-it, which was very pricy. I tried Rustoleum first but unfortunately it was not durable at all and I had to strip them again and repaint them.

 

[Slapshot]

Nice work! And good taste in motorcycles! (I have a ‘11 GS)

 

[avicenna110]

Nice work! And good taste in motorcycles! (I have a ‘11 GS)

they’re good bikes, ‘11 is also oil head right?

 

[plink01]

Dont go panicking too much about the broken headlight switch. Im pretty sure @ToyotaMatt sells them reconditioned.
We never got the headlight switch with the light in it in Aus for some reason. They're awesome!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[MOTOV8R]

Normally there is a + and - for each end. Front and rear should have one of each for adjusting leaning. It’s not a big deal. If you end up with a lean swap them side to side.

 

[Travis 76]

I was going to mention @ToyotaMatt for the headlight switch also, was beat by a few hours, great resource.
I also noticed in your first picture of your steering box, post #14, you have an egr cooler mounted to the side of your engine.

 

[Pitter Patter]

I smogged our 1985 Toyota pickup last year here in California and hated the whole process. Fortunately I was wiser not to by a car newer than 1976 that would need a smog, so I thought.... I fell in love with this specific FJ40 and naively (not really) thought how hard could it be? Well.... hard when you're missing almost all the emission parts and I found out after that they're year AND region specific

My plan is not to smog the car in the near future, but to have a game plan. I need to know that I can pass the smog in the future when I finish the build. I spent the spare time of my vacation studying the FJ40 emission and making a list of what I am missing. The pictures of the parts of from various forums on this website. The diagrams and the parts numbers are from the parts catalog (found on ih8mud) which I found immensely useful in understanding what's what and what the compatibility of parts are. Here is the list of what I am/was missing:

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Toyota really needs to start reproducing all the emissions equipment so we can keep our 40’s on the road. Maybe we can convince Greta Thunberg to start harassing them

 

[avicenna110]

Dont go panicking too much about the broken headlight switch. Im pretty sure @ToyotaMatt sells them reconditioned.
We never got the headlight switch with the light in it in Aus for some reason. They're awesome!

they're cool, and the ones @ToyotaMatt has are super nice. I bought some parts from @MottifydFJ40 and told her about the story of the headlight switch. The switch in her car was also stuck but I asked her to drill it out and she did a great job doing it, better than me!

She kindly included it for free with the item I bought and I asked her to sign my son's name on it so he can see it if he ever takes it apart.

 

[avicenna110]

Normally there is a + and - for each end. Front and rear should have one of each for adjusting leaning. It’s not a big deal. If you end up with a lean swap them side to side.

This is in regards to the spring leafs correct? Mine all have + originally so I painted them the same. From what I understood they indicate which is the shorter side, and hence the side that gets connected to the fixed part of the frame. But I did also read somewhere that + means over spec and - means under spec, perhaps this is related to your point. Can you shed some light on this if you know, I don't think I fully understand it yet. Thanks

 

[avicenna110]

I was going to mention @ToyotaMatt for the headlight switch also, was beat by a few hours, great resource.
I also noticed in your first picture of your steering box, post #14, you have an egr cooler mounted to the side of your engine.

haha, good eyes on the cooler. yes you are right and I found out after I got back from my vacation to realize it, and I had already bought one with the EGR. On top of that the previous owner send me a set of EGR+Cooler+pipe weeks later without telling me, I guess he found them in his pile. It was a nice surprise.

 

[avicenna110]

Toyota really needs to start reproducing all the emissions equipment so we can keep our 40’s on the road. Maybe we can convince Greta Thunberg to start harassing them

They really do, they're getting very difficult to find especially in my case with a Cal spec car. The prices are all over the place too, to some they're worthless because they don't have to smog their cars, and some don't wanna let them go cheap since they're rare, which I understand. I was quite surprised by this when I first learned about the emission nightmares on FJ40's. I think on my '85 pickup things aren't as bad yet. But I should start buying spare parts for that car too.

 

[Slapshot]

Yeah, pre water cooled. Hex head I think it’s called. But my bike has been a little neglected since I
bought my FJ40! I told it I would go for a ride next week since our weather is so nice.

 

[Slapshot]

Also if you ever need an extra hand give me a shout. I’m in Danville.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

its been my experience ALL Philips head set screws are a GRADE 10.9 or greater metal u can't drill out ?


heat build up then KILLS the rubber knob


is this what you found ?

 

[avicenna110]

its been my experience ALL Philips head set screws are a GRADE 10.9 or greater metal u can't drill out ?


heat build up then KILLS the rubber knob


is this what you found ?

yub it was impossible to drill. I also got tired and stressed out while doing it so I drilled too hard and went too far breaking the shaft. I learnt after that there is a clear rod that transmits/guides the light from the bulb to the front face of the switch (like fiber optics) and I broke that, along with melting the switch.