Bobby

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Pretty sure it does if you get from Wits End. I got mine from Amazon, which is stock.
Okay. Phew. I really didn't feel like adding to the job šŸ˜‚ I need an easy W after all the work I've been doing on this thing.
 
The fan clutch you removed is an Eaton and is well respected and came in later model 80's and LX's.

I've replaced the oil in mine twice. Pulls air. Eatons don't have the start up "roar" from what I've read here.
Keep for a spare or sell.
 
The fan clutch you removed is an Eaton and is well respected and came in later model 80's and LX's.

I've replaced the oil in mine twice. Pulls air. Eatons don't have the start up "roar" from what I've read here.
Keep for a spare or sell.
Good to know, thanks! I have some 15K fluid on hand, may put that in there and give it a go just for fun. I’m still waiting for a bunch of other parts before I can do the cooling system overhaul, and have the day tomorrow to goof off. Will say that the belts are VERY toast, so bad that I don’t want to drive the truck very far until they’re replaced.

Pulled the old antenna off the car earlier tonight, looks like it was the original unit. I have the replacement, but the design of the flange nut is just a little more narrow diameter than the OEM replacement I got from the dealer. I’ll see if if I can pull one from the yard or get a new one from the dealer.
 
Day off, minor successes - dumped 15K oil in the Eaton clutch, buttoned up and have as a spare. Went to the local dealership for the antenna bolt and grommet. The rubber bit for the 97 is NLA, but the 96 was available. It may not work but going to give it a go.

Took a very unsuccessful trip to the junkyard - no LCs and didn't find a head unit that I liked. There are two that (I think) are period-correct for the '97, but the one that I believe was original does NOT have an external plug for a CD changer. That's a deal breaker, as the Crux BT unit plugs into that port to work. The one that came with the truck was the 56807, and the 56808 is the one that has a port for the CD changer. Both units cross-reference to units that were in the Camry from like 98-99 - the 56807 was the 16807 in the Camry, and the 56808 was the 16810. Both are easy enough to find, but I didn't see any in good enough shape that I'd want to chance on buying and bring back only for it to not work. I could also just grab one of the double DIN units that is in my 01 4Runner, which works great, but it just doesn't *look* right. And the fancy-pants aftermarket unit that works perfect with a backup camera and Bluetooth connectivity just bugs. I'm being a brat about this, I know...

I did find a RS3000 VIP security ECU, but again, looked pretty beat and not sure if the one in the rig still works. May buy a remote first to see if I can get it working and go from there. It's on the list but down a bit.

Original, but no port for a CD changer and needs a security code. In BMWs, the dealers have a way of looking up the security code if you provide a serial number for the radio. No idea if the same applies for Toyota. BMW head units were only made by a few manufacturers. Toyota, being far bigger, looks like they had many:

20150224_114606__01957.jpg


Not original but close enough, plus added benefit of not needing a security code to get it to work (I think...)

To56808_1_364x270_64365_zoom__92069.jpg
 
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Day off, minor successes - dumped 15K oil in the Eaton clutch, buttoned up and have as a spare. Went to the local dealership for the antenna bolt and grommet. The rubber bit for the 97 is NLA, but the 96 was available. It may not work but going to give it a go.

Took a very unsuccessful trip to the junkyard - no LCs and didn't find a head unit that I liked. There are two that (I think) are period-correct for the '97, but the one that I believe was original does NOT have an external plug for a CD changer. That's a deal breaker, as the Crux BT unit plugs into that port to work. The one that came with the truck was the 56807, and the 56808 is the one that has a port for the CD changer. Both units cross-reference to units that were in the Camry from like 98-99 - the 56807 was the 16807 in the Camry, and the 56808 was the 16810. Both are easy enough to find, but I didn't see any in good enough shape that I'd want to chance on buying and bring back only for it to not work. I could also just grab one of the double DIN units that is in my 01 4Runner, which works great, but it just doesn't *look* right. And the fancy-pants aftermarket unit that works perfect with a backup camera and Bluetooth connectivity just bugs. I'm being a brat about this, I know...

I did find a RS3000 VIP security ECU, but again, looked pretty beat and not sure if the one in the rig still works. May buy a remote first to see if I can get it working and go from there. It's on the list but down a bit.

Original, but no port for a CD changer and needs a security code. In BMWs, the dealers have a way of looking up the security code if you provide a serial number for the radio. No idea if the same applies for Toyota. BMW head units were only made by a few manufacturers. Toyota, being far bigger, looks like they had many:

View attachment 2389541

Not original but close enough, plus added benefit of not needing a security code to get it to work (I think...)

View attachment 2389542
Eliminate the RS3000 unit entirely and rip out the harness by the roots. Thy are horribly problematic.
 
Eliminate the RS3000 unit entirely and rip out the harness by the roots. Thy are horribly problematic.
Unsure if the PO replaced because it broke or because it sucked. May not matter, either way?
 
Unsure if the PO replaced because it broke or because it sucked. May not matter, either way?
They are a port-added 24 YO alarm system that is problematic and will lock you out and disable your truck at the most inconvenient moment.

I ripped mine out within hours of it locking me out and disabling it when I stopped to pick up dinner for the family.
I don't put up with crap that has a possibility of stranding me somewhere.
 
Monday morning agenda - order up a bunch of parts for the cooling system refresh and a few cosmetic bugaboos - sunroof trim, antenna mast, etc. Glad to support Wits End @NLXTACY for the big stuff and ordered up a few other items from the dealer and Rockauto. Also ordered some 15K fluid for the original fan clutch and the OBD2 scanner to keep track of it all. Ought to keep me occupied for at least a weekend.

If you're going to change the fan clutch fluid, replace the o-ring. I believe wits end has them, he's the only source I know of.
The o-ring is likely to stretch after removal and getting it back in and leak free can be a problem.
I've refilled the hubs only to have all the CSK oil flung out within days of driving
 
They are a port-added 24 YO alarm system that is problematic and will lock you out and disable your truck at the most inconvenient moment.

I ripped mine out within hours of it locking me out and disabling it when I stopped to pick up dinner for the family.
I don't put up with crap that has a possibility of stranding me somewhere.

Did you replace it with an aftermarket unit, or do you just use the key? Didn’t realize it has an ignition kill switch.
 
If you're going to change the fan clutch fluid, replace the o-ring. I believe wits end has them, he's the only source I know of.
The o-ring is likely to stretch after removal and getting it back in and leak free can be a problem.
I've refilled the hubs only to have all the CSK oil flung out within days of driving

Thanks. The big O-ring looked good, but I was thinking the same as I reinstalled. The old fluid didn’t just disappear. It wasn’t dry, but had about 22-25ml in it after draining. I’ll check out Wits End for the ring.
 
Did you replace it with an aftermarket unit, or do you just use the key? Didn’t realize it has an ignition kill switch.
I did not replace it with anything. I use the key to unlock. There is no ignition kill or alarm now. Doesn't matter much where I live.

When the alarm was going off in the parking lot when it freaked out, no one around was concerned, just looking at me like I was a F'n idiot and I should have turned it off by now. In other words it makes no difference.
 
Non-LC related update - sold the 3rd Gen yesterday, went to a good home and got a great price for an exceptional 2WD. Fred, long may you run!
 
Received the OBDII reader today. Awesome, now I have something else to obsess about pretty much full time. Thanks Mud! :flipoff2: ;)

10 minute drive around town including big hill in front of the house, from the bottom of the valley (we live near the top, about 1.5mi uphill) and hottest it got was 198 for like 2 seconds. Averaged 194-196 overall. It's about 85 outside with A/C on full blast. So no meltdowns imminent, but going to do the work anyway. New radiator is here, as is the Aisin water pump. Have most of the other parts ready to go for the cooling system refresh, still waiting on a few others to turn up tomorrow. I'll also need to shop clamps, will put together a list once all the hoses show up and go from there.

I was also able to purchase 3' of 5/8" ID green stripe hose, will use a chunk of that for the PHH which was missing from my care package from Wits End. If anyone needs some I have a decent source for it right down the street.

Other stuff...discovering that none of the other doors unlock when hitting either the aftermarket keyless OR the door unlock button on the driver's side, so that's a pain in the butt I need to research. Also, PO did some weird sh*t on the antenna (not OEM), which for 97 of course was a different part and is NLA. May have tracked one down in Dubai (lol) but will see. $$$.
 
You live where it gets hot for months so 20k fluid in that blue hub clutch is kinda standard. Not exactly sure about how much oil the blue clutch can hold but my older black hub clutch swallows up 45ml with a tiny bit of room to spare.
 
Looks like I have everything I’m going to need for the cooling system refresh, all here and ready to go. Last thing to get is a bunch of clamps, which I’ll sit with tomorrow night and measure for a spreadsheet, and then a big order either at the dealer or McMaster-Carr for the goods.

Antenna B plot took over today. The Dubai parts source came back and said that the 60080 antenna is NLA, everywhere in the world. Bummer. I was just about to order one of those manual (like really manual) shaft-only deals (60030) when I hit on the idea of looking through CL for parts cars. Found a guy about 10 minutes down the freeway from me parting out a 97 LX450...and it happened to have the antenna still attached!

The goods:
CB995C1B-8218-4D98-8495-E5404F18FACE.jpeg


Silly that this is unobtainium, but here we are:

6C9B5375-8CB4-4483-84AF-B4950B0CDF80.jpeg


Hooked it up and works fine using the up/down switch on the dash. However, pressing down elicits some nasty grinding noise. Cool. Time to open ā€˜er up:

3483E94E-90AC-4733-86D7-E66DFD9DE718.jpeg


Well that’s gross. Note the very, very sticky tarry stuff around the outer edge. Tough to keep that from getting all over the inside housing. Fortunately it kind of sticks to itself, so easiest to just kind of push it out of the way and wipe off any junk that gets inside the mechanism.

92713817-5B89-4412-80EA-174CAAC01D5F.webp


This looks like it’d cause some grinding noise. Pulled this from the guts of the motor. Reattached to the harness, and all is well with the motor.

92C05147-DFB8-43BD-B16F-48C77653A182.webp


Parts stash is getting bigger. Not going to tackle the antenna until after the cooling system refresh and oil leak repair. I want to take out that aftermarket radio so bad, but it’ll have to wait. The whole workbench is full of parts, and I have the radiator sitting on the floor in its box next to the 2002. Happy!

Also squirted down the whole area of the front crank seal and oil pump cover with degreaser, covered up the alternator with a plastic bag and cleaned that off. Most of the gunk is off, but still some stuff just under the alternator. Letting it dry tonight and will check again in the am.
 
When you turn over rocks, you find bugs. All this sh*t is coming out.

Relays connecting to switches, spliced into the antenna up/down buttons:

07789E23-13ED-4EBC-BE58-AEACCE475F3C.jpeg


Switches with many wires including hot connections to the cigarette lighter (I did this trick in the 2002, hot for the aftermarket radio):

B1B19620-76C5-4F4D-B81D-658E49C14698.jpeg


More electrical genius:

3961584C-3F07-493C-9D12-2C5DC97045EA.jpeg


Strong past Old Lady’s House, very tidy through this section...

4553B1FC-278F-415E-BE90-7AE23351D592.jpeg


...and across the line!

EB9058AB-CCC5-4ACB-8ABE-82B468050B87.jpeg


My guess, aftermarket alarm or lights, which were pulled out at some point. No matter, it’s all getting trashed. Need an extra dash blank for the Switch to Nowhere, along with the rubber doohickey on the firewall that was defaced for this bull****. Or, some RTV to patch the holes?
 
Some progress - took a mirror to the rear crank seal through the window, and it looks like that’s leaking ($$$ or :banana::banana::banana:). I also got a junkyard ES300 steering wheel and Camry airbag, but the airbag connector is different for the LC (matches the one that was in the Lexus), so eBay time for that. At least it was only $20. Did the oil change today, had the traditional fight with the gorilla'd-on oil filter from the PO. Fixed the steering wheel centering too.

I also found this leak but don’t know what’s behind it. Looks like the taint (a technical term) between the oil pump and P/S pump. Anyone know what this is?

EDIT - oil relief valve. FSM and search to the rescue. Will hit this along with the oil pump cover gasket. Rear main seal or upper oil pan arch seal quoted at ~$800 by Glendora Import Specialists. Will call K&H on Monday for another data point but $800 seems more than fair.

2E196266-2A65-4395-B1D6-D9669B938C84.jpeg
 
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Clamps from Ultimate Garage arrived. All ABA 316ss. Bought 10 of size #4, 20 size #10, 4 of size #24 and 2 of size #28. I have probably more than I need of the 4s and 10s, but they were in packs of 10 and pricing was great. This should cover the whole system that I plan to touch, for this round.

9D035997-E563-407D-A613-BABB0015B4E0.webp


May get started later tonight. Supposed to be 108 here on Sunday, yikes.

Also have the OEM radio ready to install, a 16810, along with some other odds and ends. Time to stop shopping and start baselining!
 
Work started:

2AE71AA2-641A-4C3E-A0DD-26674E98FB43.webp


Looks like the replacement radiator was a CSF 2517. Will do some more research on this radiator, my guess is it’s fine but old(er):

1C556B07-6429-477A-8DC2-20A968928DFC.webp


Where things were left. Radiator is out, system is flushed with water both at the top to bottom rad hose as well as the block, cleaned up and ready to get started replacing parts. I’ve ordered the OTRAMM balancer holder, and have a bunch of tools all ready to go.

Radiator out:

BB33365E-6B89-4248-B96A-11137A895CC6.webp


These hoses are done.

E210B750-92BF-4FA9-AA22-45FC2584CB72.webp


Extra credit from earlier today. New antenna is in and works great, junkyard radio turned out to be a dud. Patched up the sh*tty wiring crap behind the dash, have a few minor things to get to after finishing out the cooling system refresh. I’ve pulled almost all of the old radio, still a few things that I need to get to later, most notably the backup camera.

9C2ACF23-B204-47EF-A211-ECD6EB465100.webp
 
That radiator looks new. Even though the CSF is sturdy unit, myself and several other members ran it and then replaced it because it couldn’t keep up when engine loads increased/low speed air flow/summer time air temps or any combination of circumstances other than lower engine load with AC off and ambient temps that were not a challenge. The greater the stress on the cooling system, the greater the difference in coolant temps. As compared to the Toyota radiator I now run, coolant temps were anywhere from 10-30 degrees higher.
 
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