Blue Mule resto in Malawi

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G'day Dan,

Years ago when I was a flight instructor, I was the tail wheel instructor because I was the only one with enough tailwheel time to qualify on the insurance as an instructor. We used to call the guys who came in for their endorsement JC students, because they all thought that getting checked out in a tail wheel was like getting checked out in a 172 or a Seminole. Once they did their first takeoff (mostly done by the instructor), however, they nearly all screamed 'Je$u$ Chri$t!' and realised it would take a bit more than 3 laps around the pattern.

Cheers,

Josh
 
Finished up laying out the wiring under the dash and installed the radio today. The mule never had a factory radio. I put an aftermarket one in previously. The tape player failed, so I decided to replace it with another simple radio with tape player. Many places I drive would not be conducive to a CD player, even one with industrial strength skip protection. :D We have often been to places so out of the way that even the tape player fades in and out :rolleyes:

Geesh Oom have you not heard of the iPod yet :hillbilly:

Looking good Dan ;)
 
Geesh Oom have you not heard of the iPod yet :hillbilly:

Looking good Dan ;)


iPod??? Oh, yeah - that's the little chewing gum packet with the wires my daughter sticks in her ears, right? :lol:

iPod might come later - no need for one right now... (note to self: add to "stuff to look at when we go back to the States" list )
 
Thought I had better take a couple pix of the underside for the album. I guarantee it won't be that clean again for a long time :rolleyes:

It IS kinda nice to be under the truck :wrench:ing without dirt and mud falling in my face, tho... :lol:
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And check out this rear sill. I can hardly remember how bad the rust through was there...:D

Found the missing wire for the rear heater and got it in in about 10 minutes. Just had to drop the heater intake duct, looked up at the wire harness and there was the connector, labeled "rear heater". Easiest :whoops: I've fixed on this project yet.
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And finished up this evening with the carb fan.
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Time for a brief update before I jump back in this morning.

The progress has slowed a bit this week. This is our busy time of year, so I'm working more and enjoying it less through the end of this month. Still manage to get an hour or so some nights in the garage, and weekends.

Much of the work this week has been the small things. I've put in a few photos that may be of help to someone else installing brake lines, which was my first job this weekend.
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The SOR catalog is a help in sorting out the brake line puzzle, but it does not make clear that the clutch line and the front brake line are the lines clipped together across the middle of the firewall. This is one of those things I did not take pictures of when I did the tear down, so it took awhile to muddle thru this. Maybe those pix will be a help to others here.

The rest of this weekend will be used up with more of the smaller, less impressive jobs that are best done before more of the big bits go back on... fuel tank lines inside the cabin, axle vent hoses replaced, minor paint touchup in a couple of spots, and so on. Since the brakes and clutch are connected, I'll also be bleeding those systems today. Once the Mule is running and I have power brakes again, I'll check the brakes for adjustment, and re-bleed if needed.

:cheers: to all.
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Hi Dan.

Just a word of warning about those "hose clamps" you're using on your coolant hoses. (In case you're not already aware of the problem.)

Unless you're careful, you may have trouble with "coolant leaks" and "hoses blowing off" for quite some time after you first fire the Blue Mule up.

I prefer the clamps that have a SMOOTH inner surface to the "band" rather than the "laddered type" you are using there. (But I too had to accept the "laddered type" because that is all I could get here in stainless.)

My experience is that the laddered type have trouble "strangling the hose" (in order to achieve a seal) because the rubber tends to protude into each of the little openings in the band - thus preventing the band from sliding across its surface (and thus from tightening properly).

So, while you may have got one of those hose clamps tight, it may still not be "stangling properly". And when that hose gets soft and hot - it is likely to leak or even blow off completely (as my top radiator hose did when I bumped over a railway crossing on my first test run after fitting new hoses and clamps).

I found the solution is to retighten each and every hose clamp as soon as the engine is first warmed-up, and frequently thereafter for as long as it takes for you to find that they are not "loosening up" anymore. (Took me at least a month.)

If you try to tighten them properly in just one or two goes - You'll just strip/damage the thing at the "worm" from my experience.

Those stock Toyota wire clamps never had this problem of course - but they're hard to get. And I think your stainless ones look better (although I tend to cut off the surplus band with a die grinder and cut-off wheel).

Since the "worm" has a hex, I use a mini ring-and-open-ender spanner instead of a screwdriver too (using the ring end). This is better for getting into confined spaces and for applying the proper torque.

It was definitely a pita for me (having stainless clamps) in this respect.

:cheers:
 
Concerning the hose clamps, I have not had the problem of them blowing off, occasionally need to re-torque to stop a leak. The biggest problem I see with them is over-torquing and damaging the hose, which is why the type with a separate smooth inner piece that contacts the hose is better. Incidentally, the "ladder" type of gear clamp is approved for low-pressure systems on aircraft so they must be OK if properly installed (accent on properly).

Having said that, I agree with Tom that you should check and re-torque the clamps several times in the first few hundred miles when you first put the truck back on the road - of course this applies to almost any nut and bolt on the truck.
 
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Hi Dan.

Just a word of warning about those "hose clamps" you're using on your coolant hoses. (In case you're not already aware of the problem.)

Unless you're careful, you may have trouble with "coolant leaks" and "hoses blowing off" for quite some time after you first fire the Blue Mule up.

I prefer the clamps that have a SMOOTH inner surface to the "band" rather than the "laddered type" you are using there. (But I too had to accept the "laddered type" because that is all I could get here in stainless.)


I found the solution is to retighten each and every hose clamp as soon as the engine is first warmed-up, and frequently thereafter for as long as it takes for you to find that they are not "loosening up" anymore. (Took me at least a month.)

Since the "worm" has a hex, I use a mini ring-and-open-ender spanner instead of a screwdriver too (using the ring end). This is better for getting into confined spaces and for applying the proper torque.


:cheers:

Concerning the hose clamps, I have not had the problem of them blowing off, occasionally need to re-torque to stop a leak. The biggest problem I see with them is over-torquing and damaging the hose, which is why the type with a separate smooth inner piece that contacts the hose is better.

Having said that, I agree with Tom that you should check and re-torque the clamps several times in the first few hundred miles when you first put the truck back on the road - of course this applies to almost any nut and bolt on the truck.

Never had a problem with jubilee clips "blowing" off.

I'm telling you, Tom - separated at birth. :D This sounds exactly like something I might have written. I appreciate you - and everyone here on MUD - looking out for me and checking those things.

Having spent much of my life in harsh, desert climates, I am very conscious - well, okay, paranoid :rolleyes: - about cooling problems with any vehicle, so I watch the coolant hose connections constantly.

These are just part of the list of things that will be checked and re-torqued many times during the first few hundred miles of operation when the mule is mobile agian.

Like you and Kootenay, I prefer the smooth inner band type clip, but I wanted stainless this time, and have always had good luck with well made worm-gear clamps. I have had to re-tighten a few times to stop small leaks, and always worry about damage to the hose by the clip, but have had the good fortune of never having a hose blow off.

I HAVE had a hose blow up before, including here in Malawi, when the clip was stronger than the rubber. I've also had to replace hoses damaged by various types of clamps, including this type, but that has been very rare.

With luck, the bits I need to finally start the truck up again will arrive this week. In the meantime, I am bleeding brakes and clutch, making some minor adjustments here and there, and generally getting her ready to fire up. Until I can do that and really check carefully for leaks, I won't be putting the less necessary bits back on - you know, doors, top, hood, fenders, and so on. As soon as she is running, and leak-free, the rest of the parts and panels will be bolted up.

:cheers: 'n' :beer:s to all.

dan
 
No ignition

Got the parts I needed for the carburetor this past week, so finished up that work, changed the oil, water in the radiator (still checking for leaks - antifreeze will come later), and was ready to go. This was to be the weekend I finally got to hear the 2F run again. Alas, This was not to be the case :frown::crybaby:

As near as I can tell from troubleshooting everything I can think of, it appears that the spark ignitor I took off the Mule about 8-9 months ago is no longer functional. :eek: I can't figure out why it would have failed sitting in a box on a shelf unless it was marginal when I removed it, and just could not handle it when power was applied after sitting.

I've started another thread on troubleshooting the ignition, to try to sort this out. I did several searches but found nothing that completely answered my questions. The fuel delivery system (new pump, rebuilt carb) seems fine - I am getting fuel pulled through, but no spark. The particulars of the problem and troubleshooting attempts are in the other thread.

I will try to get some more pix and commentary up here later today showing the fuel tank installation and getting a few more items completed. I will continue to bolt together as much as I reasonably can without closing up the front end too much too soon. Meanwhile, I decided I need a little break from the Mule, so I'm planning to get out for some camera time this afternoon. The jacarandas are in full bloom and I need to get a few good photos of them before they fade. :)

:cheers: anyway!
 
Finished up the fuel tank installation this past week. Turned out pretty nice.

The blue hose cover was part of the original tank installation. I had to trim it slightly to get it to fit with the long range tank, but it turned out pretty well.
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I wish all of the work the panel beater did looked that good. Sadly, it doesn't. Seems every time the managing director was PMSing, the work suffered. Below is an example of the bad stuff. :eek: The MD just blew it off when I pointed this out to him before taking the fenders home. He said something to the effect that "if any part of those liners shows after you get your old junk back together, we'll fix it then". I am skeptical, but have no options right now but to put it together, get it running, and take it back for rework :frown: IF I have time...


Right fender, as delivered. :frown::mad::bang:
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Just wet sand with 1200 grit sandpaper followed by rubbing compound and a polishing compound. My whole 40 looked like that but if they put enough paint on it'll smooth out.
 
Just wet sand with 1200 grit sandpaper followed by rubbing compound and a polishing compound. My whole 40 looked like that but if they put enough paint on it'll smooth out.

I expect there is plenty of paint on there. But for what I paid (over $5,000) I think I'll let them do that work if I have enough time once the mule is running again. Otherwise, I'll just have to wait till I'm back in the states. I still need to get the body seams sealed and painted anyway, and that WILL have to wait until the mule is back in the US. Not the worst thing that could happen, but a bit disappointing when I know these guys can do really good paint work.

:cheers:
 
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