Blown Head Gasket

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Thanks @Spike Strip trip
I'll look for the 61030 HG.
What is the difference for the newer HG?
 
It's the directors (holes) for how coolant is moved through the head, and it's the correct part number for what Toyota has specified for those years.
 
And perhaps parts polymath @OGBeno knows, the catalog lists the 61030 HG as T=1.40 which I believe means Thickness = 1.40mm I can't find, or Toyota doesn't list, the thickness of the 61010 HG, but they do list the shipping weight of the 61010 being less than the 61030, if that means anything.

So I'm wondering if the 61030 is marginally thicker than the 61010 ?

Using multiple AI:

The thickness of the 11115-61010 = 1.60mm.
The thickness of the 11115-61030 (61020) HG is 1.70mm

🤷‍♀️
 
OK. I got the 61030 HG. Got the block cleaned off, HG played on there and the new head put on with head bolts in finger tight. About to start tightening them down. I've got a Toyota manual so following the instructions there.

My next decision is what rocker assembly to use.
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When I bought the Head i also got an entire disasembled motor. The assembly on the right is from my "81 head. The assembly on the left is from the '86 head. It has been in shrink wrap for the last 20 years and is pretty clean but it feels a little gummy on some of the rockers. I initially thought id use it since it is from the newer head but my old one seems to me like the better one to use since it is more free moving and will match my push rods. What would be best here?
 
70 FJ40 said:
OK. I got the 61030 HG. Got the block cleaned off, HG played on there and the new head put on with head bolts in finger tight. About to start tightening them down. I've got a Toyota manual so following the instructions there.

My next decision is what rocker assembly to use. View attachment 4030079When I bought the Head i also got an entire disasembled motor. The assembly on the right is from my "81 head. The assembly on the left is from the '86 head. It has been in shrink wrap for the last 20 years and is pretty clean but it feels a little gummy on some of the rockers. I initially thought id use it since it is from the newer head but my old one seems to me like the better one to use since it is more free moving and will match my push rods. What would be best here?
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I’m John Snow here but the one in the right looks and feels better. Shinier and more spring material.

…

You are inspiring me to pick up a spare block.
 
If you're not already aware, the bolts have specific locations. Note, on the rocker assembly on the left from the top one of the bolts has it dimple on top. This is explained in the FSM, it has to do with oiling through the rocker shaft.

I think the two shafts are the same so I'd go with whatever one to be in better shape, to you.

Also, be aware, there is a notch in the rocker shaft itself, you can see it if you move the rocker arms to the side - that is to align the oiling holes. The rocker assembly should not be difficult to push over the studs, if it is, you have the rocker shaft misaligned.

Are are the adjusters on the end of the rocker arms the same size? I think the earlier one are 14 mm and the later are 12 mm
 
I know the order I took the rocker bolts off when I removed it so as long as put them back in the same spot all should be well. Ya? Yep, the earlier head has larger adjusters.
 
Ok. Next thing: the oil galley plug.
The head I bought was drilled and tapped with a 5/16-18 thread pitch. I need to get a plug to go in there. All I could find localy is an allen head set screw. It threads in but not tight like a plug. Is it normal to just use this with some thread locker or do I need to get something better? If so, what? Im kinda lost on this one.
 
Double plug it. So a short Allen set screw with some sealant on it, then another one screwed into that one. Or drill and tap for a pipe plug.
 
Well, mag revealed 2 cracks between the rocker mounts, front and back. Shop said they can repair it by stitching it. $1,100 including all machining, brass freeze plugs, oil gally plug and valve job. Contemplating rebuilding the 3FE and adding H55F, or going LS and 4L80. Know any reputable shops in south Texas?
 
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redtoy said:
Well, mag revealed 2 cracks between the rocker mounts, front and back. Shop said they can repair it by stitching it. $1,100 including all machining, brass freeze plugs, oil gally plug and valve job. Contemplating rebuilding the 3FE and adding H55F, or going LS and 4L80. Know any reputable shops in south Texas?
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oof...

Shops to do what? rebuild the 3FE or doing the swaps?
 
Things are progressing. I was finally able to get the old crusty block heater out and a new one put in. Now I can proceed with the rest. I needed to get that done before putting the manifold back on or it would have been impossible to get to. I was cleaning up some parts this evening and started wondering what I need to do with the carb spacer. Do I need to pull the 2 little pieces off either side? Are those just old gaskets that are stuck on there? It had some gooey sealant or something before, but I've got new gaskets to put on looks like i just need to pry the pieces off, but then I got worried about doing that in case I need to leave them there and just add gaskets. I'm sure its a dumb question. Anyway, here's a picture of what I'm talking about.
20251121_213154.webp
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Use that block and old gaskets as is - soak in liquid WD40 which will soften the paper gaskets back up. They are a re-usable part. If you try and scrape the gaskets off you’ll make a mess of the block, they aren’t meant to come off.
 
Thanks @cruisermatt. And thanks for sending those parts ASAP. I'm really wanting to get this thing put back together this weekend.
 
I've got it all back together. Just need to add coolant and change the oil. There are just the 2 vacuum lines from the distributor. I can't remember where they attach on the other side of the motor. The truck has been desmogged so there are only 2 lines.
 
Also, I adjusted the valves cold but should I re-adjust after the truck runs for a bit and warms up?
 
70 FJ40 said:
Also, I adjusted the valves cold but should I re-adjust after the truck runs for a bit and warms up?
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Yes, re-torque head bolts and manifold nuts same time.
 
Should I expect to need to re-tune the carb? I have a new head, resurfaced manifold, and a different carb spacer/ heat shield. I got the truck started this morning. Yeah! But after warming up, it wanted to dye without the choke pulled. It would run but barely. I used steam to find vaccum leaks, but I could t find any. My fuel cut solenoid is working properly. Sorry if this is a dumb question. I've never done engine work to this level.
 
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