Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that

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All the rubber seals came from Amayama, by hardware do you mean nuts,bolts washers? they are not JIS nor from Toyota.

Jon, I noticed in an old thread you were after info on an alternator for a 12HT. Do you have any advice for me I am about to buy one over the next 3-4 days...... wife permitting.

Hi Billy,
This is an impressive build and your patience and attention to detail is admirable! Im also rebuilding an fj73 from the ground up and finding out how long it takes! Though Im sticking with a 3f only converting to a 3fe. One of the last things I will do is rebuild a 2f bottom end go the turboed 2fe route.

My chassis, body and panel repair is set for February. My question is how the hell do you know what part number to order for each of the required rubbers? I have looked at Amayama site and had my brain scrambled. Im putting in the effort and would like to change every rubber and weather seal on the vehicle. But cant figure out which ones I need to purchase, based only on part number and broken english description.
cheers
 
Yeah, the Amayama site has cheaper prices, but Megazip has the diagrams. If you notice on Megazip,
the site also tells you on the parts list how many of each part is required. It was a godsend when I ordered
all the fitting and bolts for a fender replacement. I also just did the same thing when I ordered bearings
to rebuild a steering gear box.
 
Holy dooly that link send s me to paradise.
Many Thanks

The link is courtesy of @cruiserpilot as it was his comment in another thread that led me to it.
I use a CD version of the Electronic Parts Catalogue which is a little more detailed than megazip.
Although I probably wouldn't have paid $35 for the CD if Jon hadn't kept it to himself for so long .;)
 
Did a few smaller fiddly jobs over last couple of weeks.
I replicated the broken nylon pin on the aircon switch assembly. I will order a whole new assembly at some point in the future.
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Patched a few holes where the previous owner screwed some after market lever boots. Also removed some broken studs that were in the captive nuts and re tapped all the holes.
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Only used a rattle can because it is yet to be covered in sound/heat deadener.
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I had to order a gasket for the top of the gearbox because apparently I have to remove it so I can replace the rubber boot on the 5th shift arm shaft?
rubber boot.webp
 
do you know what does the air filter warning light do ? is it connected to the engine air filter? i haven't seen that before.
 
do you know what does the air filter warning light do ? is it connected to the engine air filter? i haven't seen that before.

Mechanics is not my strong point but from what I understand there is a sensor after the air filter and the light comes on when there is a restriction of air. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will chime in.
 
As Billy said , but those who have tested it say the filter has to be absolutely clogged with crap before the light comes on. Is the vehicle a European model? I have only seen them on Australian spec vehicles so far.
 
Hi Billy,
As you have a 1985 fj73 Im going to assume you have the vacuum actuated h4 selector? Are you expecting any issues with this not working with the introduction of a turbo? If so do you have plans of how to over come it?

Cheers
 
Hi Billy,
As you have a 1985 fj73 Im going to assume you have the vacuum actuated h4 selector? Are you expecting any issues with this not working with the introduction of a turbo? If so do you have plans of how to over come it?

Cheers

Hey mate,

I've wondered this myself but I'm not plumbing it all up for about another month and I was just going to cross that bridge when I came to it.

While we're on the subject; from my understanding the H4 selector on the 60 Series dash operated a actuator on the gearbox itself and the turbo only provided pressure to the actuator. If so I was just planning on blocking it at the closest point to the turbo.
 
Hey mate,

I've wondered this myself but I'm not plumbing it all up for about another month and I was just going to cross that bridge when I came to it.

While we're on the subject; from my understanding the H4 selector on the 60 Series dash operated a actuator on the gearbox itself and the turbo only provided pressure to the actuator. If so I was just planning on blocking it at the closest point to the turbo.


Yeah right, not sure I fully understand your plan there... Im learning this as I go. My understanding is, as soon as the boost kicks in, no more vacuum, out pops 4wd? Im still at least 1 year away from this part of my project but just trying to get my head around.... A- is it going to be an issue B- if so whats the fix? I actually managed to snap off my vacuum whilst getting the married motor and transmission back into place. Wondering whether to replace or if there is a better option.
 
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Used a High heat paint for the cig lighter inner casing.
PB060090.webp


Moulded a new mounting hole for one of the broken corners with some epoxy, keeping the standoff and angle the same.
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Then countersinking a hole to look similar to the others. This panel is to be painted blue/grey.
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Had a crack in one of the other corners, but most parts were there so I used a "super glue" (cyanoacrylate instant adhesive) and a fibre filling powder which can be sanded and painted.
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purchasing a new main gauge cluster because there is some surface rust bleeding through the white paint markings. Everything was working so I'll keep it for spares
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I couldn't revive the handle grip but the lever, mechanism, springs and elec switch were all fine so I removed the grip and ordered one from where I got my seats from.
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can you still find new gauges?
after one year of scary spiking and imprecise readings I found an old unused fuel/temp gauge on ebay and now readings seem to be stable.
but I spent 100euro for that.

can one still source new gauges?
 

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