Best oil weight to use... (1 Viewer)

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I have 125,000 miles on my 83 60, I just replaced the pan gasket, inspection cover gasket and valve cover gasket. I used a Toyota OEM filter and put in Rotella T 15-40W and a quart of Lucas Oil Additive.

Any issues with this?
 
Since 1990 I have used synthetic oil on all my vehicles, including my emergency generator with excellent results. While in Alaska I used Mobil 1 5w20. Now I live in the tropics my Land Cruisers use 10W30, my car (Honda) 5W20, my bike 10W30, the pressure washer 10W30 and the generator 10W30, all Mobil 1. As of today, all the engines are in top condition.
 
M1 20w-50 would be a good choice for LV
 
M1 20w-50 would be a good choice for LV

Agree-my default at this point, but isn't it 15W-50? I might have to get up and go out to the garage and check!
 
I think you're right. Either way, good choice and even available at Wally world.
 
I run either 10w30 or 15w40 rotella T up in northern nv. You could easily get away with the 15w40 as a regular. If nothing else talk to the guys in your club down there and see (@Mace)
 
I have used Rotella 15w-40 in mine for years now with good results. It does well in hot and cold temps. It doesn't get particularly cold around here though.

Yeah I was using it for quite a while and then just recently switched to the Rotella T 10w30 just to try it. Found that when things get colder (like start consistently getting to 40* or below at night) that she has a harder time starting in the morning with the 15w40. The 10w30 seemed to solve that and still have the same "leak stop" as the 15w40. Probably all in my head though.
 
Down south I historically always used Castrol 20/50 all year long. Castrol is not quite what it used to be, so I run rotella 15/40 in it now. Up in reno I would do 10/30 during the winter. Made starting easier..

I also add some Zinc additive now as well.

Also, I run the Valvoline VR1 20/50 race oil in my bug. But the motor is newer and the lifters have not had as much time on them.
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/vr1-racing-oil
 
We talk about Zinc a lot to protect our flat tappet cams. I run Rotella 15W40 with a little bit of lubegaurd zinc additive and my 3FE does seem to like that best out of all the brands I've tried. Engine just sounds smoother, slightly better pressure and the psychic connection I have with my FJ62 is the only empirical evidence I really have...

I came across below today and I'm curious what y'all think. This guy is making a case for Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength PSI values over Zinc and diesel oils offer a lower protection capability compared to regular oils e.g. 10-40's
This guy is testing diesel oils vs standard synthetics, but curious what you guys make of it.

Happy reading:
Diesel Engine oil
 
[quote author=swank60 link=board=1;threadid=16101;start=msg154214#msg154214 date=1084251619]
I don't know - I was running 20-50 in mine here in Fart Worth, and it didn't like it. When it's cool, I run 10-30, during the summer, I'll move up to 10-40. I always put in a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, too...I've got 204k miles and other than the emissions weirdness I'm working through, it does great...

while we're at it, what about brand? I hear a lot about Mobil 1. I run Castrol (pretty much always have) - never run the cheap stuff...any thoughts on that? (not to hijack here...)

No hijack at all...this is a good point. I run quaker state in mine but what do people reccommend?[/QUOTE]


Why dont you like 20-50? My 60 had that when I bought it and I just stuck with it... what did the other weight do for you that 20-50 didn’t do?

Thanks!!
 
[quote author=swank60 link=board=1;threadid=16101;start=msg154214#msg154214 date=1084251619]
I don't know - I was running 20-50 in mine here in Fart Worth, and it didn't like it. When it's cool, I run 10-30, during the summer, I'll move up to 10-40. I always put in a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, too...I've got 204k miles and other than the emissions weirdness I'm working through, it does great...

while we're at it, what about brand? I hear a lot about Mobil 1. I run Castrol (pretty much always have) - never run the cheap stuff...any thoughts on that? (not to hijack here...)

No hijack at all...this is a good point. I run quaker state in mine but what do people reccommend?[/QUOTE]


Why dont you like 20-50? My 60 had that when I bought it and I just stuck with it... what did the other weight do for you that 20-50 didn’t do?

Thanks!!
 
No hijack at all...this is a good point. I run quaker state in mine but what do people reccommend?


Why dont you like 20-50? My 60 had that when I bought it and I just stuck with it... what did the other weight do for you that 20-50 didn’t do?

Thanks!![/QUOTE]

Depends on your climate. 20w50 is a little higher than necessary in average climates, unlesss it is always super hot. I tend to only run 20w50 in vehicles that are air-cooled. 15w40 does well for me in 0 to 100*.

Lance has it right, 40wt sounds nice.
R7lJGBz.jpg
 
Why dont you like 20-50? My 60 had that when I bought it and I just stuck with it... what did the other weight do for you that 20-50 didn’t do?

Thanks!!

Depends on your climate. 20w50 is a little higher than necessary in average climates, unlesss it is always super hot. I tend to only run 20w50 in vehicles that are air-cooled. 15w40 does well for me in 0 to 100*.

Lance has it right, 40wt sounds nice.
R7lJGBz.jpg
[/QUOTE]


Does it kill gas mileage or something? I’m in Phoenix... is it bad to switch to a different weight if it’s been running 20-50 for a while? Maybe this is why I have absolutely zero leaks or drips...
 
Does it kill gas mileage or something? I’m in Phoenix... is it bad to switch to a different weight if it’s been running 20-50 for a while? Maybe this is why I have absolutely zero leaks or drips...

Nope, should not have an effect on gas mileage.

20w50 is fine, just never had a need to go that high. Switching weight doesn't matter, its the bounce between Synthetic/Conventional/Semi-Syn. Seals will react differently and can cause leaks.

If the truck runs well and doesn't leak, I see no reason to change a winning formula. If you want true peace of mind, get an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs.
 

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