Bedliner spray to cover rust spot

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Jan 25, 2010
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On my 92 fj I have a wee bit of rust on the ds passenger door on the the very bottom just some surface rust ? is has anybody used a bedliner type roll on or spray I would like to use it on the fender flares as well any opinions or experience would help wisconsin in the winter has no shortage of salt:mad:
 
If I lived in an area that used salt the entire bottom of my rig would be covered in bed liner, as would the lower part of the sides.

Actually for the bottom I'd probably use Second Skin Spectrum as an undercoating, to help quiet it down.
 
If you spray bedliner directly over rust, it will eventually work its way through the bedliner :meh:

Your best bet (other than repairing the rust spot) is to shoot a solid coat of epoxy sealer before shooting/rolling the bedliner :cool:

For my rig, I shot epoxy sealer over everything before shooting the bedliner (hood, lower door panels, bumpers, caps, grille, roof rack, mirrors, air tanks, etc., etc.)
 
Over the summer I did a lot of rust repair on my van and the following has worked best for me.

1: Strip the rust off using a wire wheel or a 3M disc on a drill. Bring it down to bare steel and strip a little bit past the rust. This is critical because if there is any rust left it will come back in a hurry and bubble the paint.

2: Use a good primer laying down at least 4 coats.

3: Paint, laying down as many coats as desired. The more the better since youve stripped the paint making that area "lower" than the surrounding factory paint.

4: Clear coat using something with a hardener in it. This will make the surface way more durable than w paint alone.

Masking the area properly will also determine what the finished product will look like. If you mask a nice neat square section around the bare steel the patch will be obvious due to the whole layering thing. I have had good results "blending" the paint. Instead of masking I spray the primer, concentrating on the repair area but overlapping a bit onto the oe paint. I then do the same with the paint and clear.

It wont be perfect but itll be better than a square patch since even custom mixed paint will end up being a shade or two off..

If you were to bed line the area do steps 1 and 2 and sub in bed liner for steps 3 and 4. This is way easier and will turn out nicer since the bed liner goes on thick compared to paint and will mask imperfections.

I went one step further when painting my tacoma sliders. Being the lazy bastard I tend to be I applied cheap bed liner directly to the bare steel sliders after wiping them down. I let the bl cure then applied a couple coats of duplicolor graphite wheel paint and dc clear. The paint looks great, is easy to touch up, and amazingly is really durable showing no signs of rust.

I plan to paint over the black bl on my van with color matched paint this spring to get rid of the 2 tone look.

Hope this helps.

D
 
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Another good product is Ospho. ACE hardware usually carries it, I just bought a gallon for about $22, which should be enough to do about 30 80s. It is an osmium phosphate, which converts rust. Real easy to use, just wire brush the loose stuff and put in on with a spray bottle or a brush over rusted or bare metal. After that, it can be primed and painted or use a bedliner material directly over it. My personal favorite it the brush on Herculiner. It is made from urethane and has rubber granules in it. Same material as what the commerical bedliners are.
 
The guys who sprayed Linex for me advised that it would be a bad idea to spray bedliner on anything but a pristine surface. If there's any rust, it will just continue to rust and when it comes time to repair the spot, the bedliner is a B*$%& to take off.
 
Over the summer I did a lot of rust repair on my van and the following has worked best for me.

1: Strip the rust off using a wire wheel or a 3M disc on a drill. Bring it down to bare steel and strip a little bit past the rust. This is critical because if there is any rust left it will come back in a hurry and bubble the paint.

2: Use a good primer laying down at least 4 coats.

3: Paint, laying down as many coats as desired. The more the better since youve stripped the paint making that area "lower" than the surrounding factory paint.

4: Clear coat using something with a hardener in it. This will make the surface way more durable than w paint alone.

Masking the area properly will also determine what the finished product will look like. If you mask a nice neat square section around the bare steel the patch will be obvious due to the whole layering thing. I have had good results "blending" the paint. Instead of masking I spray the primer, concentrating on the repair area but overlapping a bit onto the oe paint. I then do the same with the paint and clear.

It wont be perfect but itll be better than a square patch since even custom mixed paint will end up being a shade or two off..

If you were to bed line the area do steps 1 and 2 and sub in bed liner for steps 3 and 4. This is way easier and will turn out nicer since the bed liner goes on thick compared to paint and will mask imperfections.

I went one step further when painting my tacoma sliders. Being the lazy bastard I tend to be I applied cheap bed liner directly to the bare steel sliders after wiping them down. I let the bl cure then applied a couple coats of duplicolor graphite wheel paint and dc clear. The paint looks great, is easy to touch up, and amazingly is really durable showing no signs of rust.

I plan to paint over the black bl on my van with color matched paint this spring to get rid of the 2 tone look.

Hope this helps.

D

X2 on the bedliner. Mine is not a rust bucket but does have some surface rust that I plan on cleaning and painting the whole truck in bedliner to hide the imperfections from my work.
 
x3 on the POR15.

Obviously, since you're considering shooting the door with bedliner, you're not really interested in doing it the proper way, which is to completely grind,cut,blast, whatever, the rust out of there. (BTW, I don't blame you!)

POR15 is the next best thing, and it will actually last for a long long time. I've used it on several projects, and the stuff is really amazing.

just do the best you can to get rid of the loose rust, brush on the POR liberally, even inside the door if the rust is in the rolled seam at the very bottom. pour some in and spread it around in there. Let it dry for a day, and THEN have at with your bedliner. If you completely coat the rust, you'll be good to go for years.

That is the easiest way to deal with your problem.
 
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