love that color! and it looks like you did a great match up with the U-Pol coloring. Thanks for the U-Pol review, I have been considering which product to go with, and leanimg towards U-Pol, now I am convinced. 
Because the WIFE said I COULDN'T 1973 Frame off
- Thread starter addicted56
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Looks great, I'm enjoying your build. What do you think about UPOL?
p.s. Thank you for your service. My brother spent many days at Fort Benning and Ft. Lewis before eventually going to Ft Rucker for flight school. It paid off though...In the end he got Ft. Carson which seemed pretty cool.
p.s. Thank you for your service. My brother spent many days at Fort Benning and Ft. Lewis before eventually going to Ft Rucker for flight school. It paid off though...In the end he got Ft. Carson which seemed pretty cool.
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- #103
Haha I did notice but I was going to use it anyway since I had it. I will eventually order the right piece but as noted earlier I'm out
funds right now and over budget.
Yes the throw out bearing was dried up and no grease in there and it was all wrapped up in some sort of carpet strings, mice maybe?? But the main problem was the clutch was frozen to the flywheel. The brakes didn't work well enough to be able to even stop the rear wheels so I couldn't break it free until I tore it apart. I just hope I put it all back together right as I used the clutch parts from the other engine and I didn't take notes or pictures when I tore it apart. We will see
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- #104
I love the UPOL. It is very strong and lays down very well. If you want it rough you just spray it lightly and further away. You want a very smooth texture and you turn up the air pressure and put it on heavy and it spreads out smooth to the touch. I chose somewhere in the middle. I screwed up the color match ( you can tell on the tranny hump) in a few spots. The only problem is they say you should add 10% paint. Well for one thing like it says on their directions there are no measuring points on the bottle anywhere. Then by the time you add the hardener and cram 7-8% by volume in there there is no room to shake the bottle and when you stick the tube in there from the gun it overflows.
I give it an 8 out of 10 which is better than any of the other products I have used which I noted earlier.
Thanks for the words of encourage ment. Off to go work on it again now.
What are you gonna do with those rear tail lights? Is there a way to restore 'em? They look in pretty rough shape.
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Looking good Jason! I wish I could get my project going like that...
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- #108
I have the lense casing sitting in some evapo-rust over night. I've been very impressed with the stuff so far and hopefully I can salvage them. This is not going to be a 10 out of 10 rebuild so I'm not to worried about it at this point. And I'm already over budget and out of money so I'll do my best at this point.
I do need some help though. I was trying to view coolermans FSM pictures but they are to small and open in quicktime (unlike his engine FSM) and I can't view them. Maybe someone could help me with a couple of things I can't remember how to put together (I might just need more time and some beers)
I have 2 springs. In my baggie I wrote that one belonged to the clutch pedal return, and the other to the brake pedal on a tab (which I also have and taped "brake" on it). I vaguely remember taking them off and trying to pay attention so I would remember how to put them on but my brain is shot. So far I have not been able to figure out where they attach. Does anyone have any pictures?
Also any pictures of the mount on the drivers side where the bellhousing mounts to the frame. I believe the clutch slave cylinder sits here and I may have put it in and on the truck upside down. I have all of the random brackets I took off that help mount the clutch on the floor and don't know how to put the new clutch slave back on. I should have done this before putting it in the car. Ohh well.
Thanks guys.
P.S. I forgot the camera AGAIN but I got a TON of work done today. Sadly I'm running out of parts and am waiting on a shipment and more money before I get to much further. Hopefully I don't outrun my wallet.
I do need some help though. I was trying to view coolermans FSM pictures but they are to small and open in quicktime (unlike his engine FSM) and I can't view them. Maybe someone could help me with a couple of things I can't remember how to put together (I might just need more time and some beers)
I have 2 springs. In my baggie I wrote that one belonged to the clutch pedal return, and the other to the brake pedal on a tab (which I also have and taped "brake" on it). I vaguely remember taking them off and trying to pay attention so I would remember how to put them on but my brain is shot. So far I have not been able to figure out where they attach. Does anyone have any pictures?
Also any pictures of the mount on the drivers side where the bellhousing mounts to the frame. I believe the clutch slave cylinder sits here and I may have put it in and on the truck upside down. I have all of the random brackets I took off that help mount the clutch on the floor and don't know how to put the new clutch slave back on. I should have done this before putting it in the car. Ohh well.
Thanks guys.
P.S. I forgot the camera AGAIN but I got a TON of work done today. Sadly I'm running out of parts and am waiting on a shipment and more money before I get to much further. Hopefully I don't outrun my wallet.
What is the evapo-rust stuff you're using? Coolerman rigged up an electrolysis tank and got some amazing results.
I can imagine that money can get out of hand really quick. On what parts did you spend more money than expected?
I can imagine that money can get out of hand really quick. On what parts did you spend more money than expected?
- Thread starter
- #110
I will be trying that electrolysis over christmas to remove all of the rust in my gas tank and the rest of my wheels as I ran out of blasting media.
When I bring my camera today I'll get a before and after of the carb. Here is a link to their website Evapo-Rust rust remover description page. I found it locally at my paint store.
I have made an excel sheet of every thing that I thought I would need when I bought my car to help me figure out how much it would cost. It has two columns, one of what I thought it would cost and one of actual cost when I purchased it. I even tried to include consumeables like abrasives and sealants. Then I tried to tailor it down to things that I needed and things that I could save to save money. That helped a lot. I am actually under budget on the parts that I have purchased as I did a lot of shopping around. The real problem is all of the parts that I didn't think of or broke along the way during restoration. Like last night while cleaning the defroster vent tubes one of them blew up (unsprung) on me and I'll need to get another one of those eventually. Here is the list "so far" of things I didn't think of that are eating me up.
Brake Cylinder Kit
Clutch Slave
PCV Valve
Lug Nuts
Tie Rods
U-Bolts
Windsheild
Windsheild Seals
Rubber Hose
Clamps
Brake Lines
Gasket/Silicone
Evapo Rust Remover
Anyone out there have any pictures of the problems I'm encountering in the above post?
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I have a FSM and a scanner. Let me know what pages you need and I will try to get them to you soon. Looking forward to the progress pics. I need to update my build thread as well.
On the defrost tube, I had the same problem. I had on old shop vac hose that was the exact same diameter and fit perfectly. I cut it to length and it was flexible enough to fit exactly into position. I think it looks pretty dang good too.
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- #113
Where can I find one of those FSM's these days? I found an old picture when I was tearing it apart and think I figured out the clutch. Now I just need to stare at the brake pedal a bit longer.
Hmmm. I bet I can buy some extra from lowes. I just decided to throw the other one away today as well as the rubber on it was shot and would not seal.
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- #114
Everything is dusty and dirty but it is comming together. I need to get the ducts up, get some heater hose, and figure out how to put the fresh air vent in. I think I'm missing part of it. I moved parts so many times in that parking lot and back and forth from my house I'm not sure where things are. Already can't find my Rag joint for the steering coupler. Hopefully I can find the rest of this. After that it is clean out the fuel tank and put in the seats and I'm good to go interior wise. Then on to the hard things like front end rebuild and mounting things up. Just found some more old pictures and realized I have a couple of the knobs in the wrong place. Not to bad for guessing though.
I also just realized I HAVE to get those windshield screws out as the mirrors I bought go in the two bottom screws. I guess I'm going to have to buy some more screws and just drill those bottom 4 out on each side and retap them.
Here are a few pics. The first is of the mount that I think I may have on backwards or upside down?
I also just realized I HAVE to get those windshield screws out as the mirrors I bought go in the two bottom screws. I guess I'm going to have to buy some more screws and just drill those bottom 4 out on each side and retap them.
Here are a few pics. The first is of the mount that I think I may have on backwards or upside down?
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- Thread starter
- #115
Few more pics. A before and after of the Carb. Again I don't have the cash or time to make this a super clean rig but it is a step in the right direction from its humble beginings. At least it will be able to be enjoyed now. Good practice and knowledge gained for the time when I have to redo my FJ43.
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- #118
Lots of rust in the stock tank. I have an extra but out of a different year. I'm trying my best to save this but it is kicking my but. I did 24 hours of electolyisis and it did a good job and got rid of a lot of rust. Mind you I shook out about 3 cups already. But it opened up about 20 different pin holes in 3 main spots on the tank.
So I washed it out a few times and shook out a bunch more rust and am going for another round of electrolysis tonight. Here is a pic after 2 hours and what stuck on my electrode. In the morning I will do one final coat of JB weld over the main rust areas and cover them all. Then I will use my fuel tank cleaner/ liner and that suppusseldy can fill holes up to 1/16th of an inch which only one of them was to begin with. Then finally I will coat it with my frame coating. Might eventually go get some more raptor liner and paint match it and spray again. All of that combined SHOULD give me a debris free tank and no leaks. Fingers crossed.
So I washed it out a few times and shook out a bunch more rust and am going for another round of electrolysis tonight. Here is a pic after 2 hours and what stuck on my electrode. In the morning I will do one final coat of JB weld over the main rust areas and cover them all. Then I will use my fuel tank cleaner/ liner and that suppusseldy can fill holes up to 1/16th of an inch which only one of them was to begin with. Then finally I will coat it with my frame coating. Might eventually go get some more raptor liner and paint match it and spray again. All of that combined SHOULD give me a debris free tank and no leaks. Fingers crossed.
This thing is looking bad ass.
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- #120
Operation save fuel tank was a failure. Going to look at the other one I got with the extra engine to see if it is salvagable. It won't line up quite right but I should be able to make it work.
Good practice with the Electolysis. I actually made my own washing soda by cooking baking soda in the oven for an hour above 300 degrees. And I managed to save my fuel tank liner for the next tank. Hopefully I can save the other one as I definitely don't have 400 bucks in my budget for a new one.
Good practice with the Electolysis. I actually made my own washing soda by cooking baking soda in the oven for an hour above 300 degrees. And I managed to save my fuel tank liner for the next tank. Hopefully I can save the other one as I definitely don't have 400 bucks in my budget for a new one.