Here’s a pic of my amazon terminals. I was able to trim the positive terminal cover to fit.
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Nice setup but Im more interested in the dual lockers now. Are you running e lockers front and rear? Ive been looking lately for gx locker installs but mostly only found people thinking about it. @Acrad has a Harrop but last I asked him he was still long listing it. Mind sharing some info on your setup?I'm not a fan of the big exposed blocks connected to positive due to risk of shorts.
I set mine up with two wires going to positive. One goes to a breaker which then breaks out all accessories. The other goes to the winch. I also have all my grounds collected on a plate that is inline with the chassis ground, rather than on the battery. Two exceptions to that are the winch and the switch pros which specifically call out a direct ground to battery.
The two relays on top are for lockers .
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I installed a rear elocker when I regeared. Between the rear locker and ATRAC, I can do everything I want to do.Nice setup but Im more interested in the dual lockers now. Are you running e lockers front and rear? Ive been looking lately for gx locker installs but mostly only found people thinking about it. @Acrad has a Harrop but last I asked him he was still long listing it. Mind sharing some info on your setup?
If you're thinking about lockers, especially front and rear, you may consider also regearing too since it's all taken apart.Nice setup but Im more interested in the dual lockers now. Are you running e lockers front and rear? Ive been looking lately for gx locker installs but mostly only found people thinking about it. @Acrad has a Harrop but last I asked him he was still long listing it. Mind sharing some info on your setup?
I installed a rear elocker when I regeared. Between the rear locker and ATRAC, I can do everything I want to do.
I helped my buddy Paul swap the front diff in his 3rd gen and it was not an easy day. Especially bench pressing the new diff into place with my back on the garage floor. That was a challenge and took us several tries taking turns. I can imaging the GX is a bit harder based on steering rack placement. FSM says you need to remove the whole rack to get it out.If you're thinking about lockers, especially front and rear, you may consider also regearing too since it's all taken apart.
Also, doing lockers and regearing yourself can be tricky especially with properly meshing the gears correctly. I did the front and rear lockers on our old '89 Toy pickup.
That's why I had someone put front and rear ARB's and regear on my GX.
Nice setup but Im more interested in the dual lockers now. Are you running e lockers front and rear? Ive been looking lately for gx locker installs but mostly only found people thinking about it. @Acrad has a Harrop but last I asked him he was still long listing it. Mind sharing some info on your setup?
Yep, front and rear elockers. I regeared, loved the performance but got unlucky with a whine that was annoying to me. Ended up going back to OEM ratios, but kept the lockers obviously.I helped my buddy Paul swap the front diff in his 3rd gen and it was not an easy day. Especially bench pressing the new diff into place with my back on the garage floor. That was a challenge and took us several tries taking turns. I can imaging the GX is a bit harder based on steering rack placement. FSM says you need to remove the whole rack to get it out.
@BigSwede How does ATRAC handle with lockers engaged? Does it ignore the locked wheels since they are both spinning? Does ATRAC still engage in the front with rear wheels locked?
Lockers are a ways down my list but would likely only ever need the rear when i do get there. I was just curious since @LWC said the relays in his set-up were for lockers. I assumed since there were two in his set-up that he had front and rear.
yes, atrac will still engage with just rear locked. Had that happen a few times in mud out in anza during the super bloom. Probably should've turned off VSC so the front wheels would spin a bit more but it turned out ok@BigSwede How does ATRAC handle with lockers engaged? Does it ignore the locked wheels since they are both spinning? Does ATRAC still engage in the front with rear wheels locked?
Yes the ATRAC works in the front when the locker is engaged. This is no different from my old 2010 FJ Cruiser which had a factory rear locker and ATRAC.I helped my buddy Paul swap the front diff in his 3rd gen and it was not an easy day. Especially bench pressing the new diff into place with my back on the garage floor. That was a challenge and took us several tries taking turns. I can imaging the GX is a bit harder based on steering rack placement. FSM says you need to remove the whole rack to get it out.
@BigSwede How does ATRAC handle with lockers engaged? Does it ignore the locked wheels since they are both spinning? Does ATRAC still engage in the front with rear wheels locked?
Thats ****ing awesome. Did you install yourself and if so, how was the front diff removal?Yep, front and rear elockers. I regeared, loved the performance but got unlucky with a whine that was annoying to me. Ended up going back to OEM ratios, but kept the lockers obviously.
since the e lockers are so damn quiet when they engage I put a "safety" switch in so that their solenoids don't have power unless I press it. Was slightly worried about bumping them on on the road or my kids enabling them to see what happens
What ratio did you go to? Hows the mileage on the freeway? Mines still a DD and I commute 40 a day : /Yes the ATRAC works in the front when the locker is engaged. This is no different from my old 2010 FJ Cruiser which had a factory rear locker and ATRAC.
I have done diff work in the past, and was not interested in doing it myself this time. I paid a shop a little under $500 to install two prepared third members (I did the wiring for the e-locker myself). Pretty sure they did not remove the steering rack for the front install BTW.
No the steering rack does not need to be removed. A competent mechanic should be able to remove the front differential in about three hours. Having a floor jack to support the differential is helpful but not necessary.Yes the ATRAC works in the front when the locker is engaged. This is no different from my old 2010 FJ Cruiser which had a factory rear locker and ATRAC.
I have done diff work in the past, and was not interested in doing it myself this time. I paid a shop a little under $500 to install two prepared third members (I did the wiring for the e-locker myself). Pretty sure they did not remove the steering rack for the front install BTW.
Should take me about 36 then : ) Checked out your website. Would love to take a class someday. Looks like you guys know your s***.A competent mechanic should be able to remove the front differential in about three hours.
Thats a good point. I wish I had done the control arms on my gx when I did the lift. I wish I had done the cv’s and rack on my third gen when I flipped its suspension.Regarding the steering rack, the bushings will usually fail sometime between 100-150K. It's actually not that bad of a job to R&R the rack. If you're pulling the front diff anyway to do lockers, and if you have a higher-mileage rig, I'd probably replace the rack with a reman or new Toyota unit to avoid having to re-do it later down the road. Wheeling will definitely accelerate steering rack bushing wear - as it did on my rig (heard a "pop" offroad only to have the wheel be off-center - must have torn what was left of a bushing).
I know this was intended for BigSwede, but when I regeared, it was hard to distinguish what all was reducing my MPG since I had all the work done at once.What ratio did you go to? Hows the mileage on the freeway? Mines still a DD and I commute 40 a day : /
4.88. With 35s I'm 10% overgeared (speedo reads 10% low). At 70-75 mph I get 16-17 mpg, unless there is a major headwind.What ratio did you go to? Hows the mileage on the freeway? Mines still a DD and I commute 40 a day : /
I forgot you had dual lockers too. What ratio? MPG>I know this was intended for BigSwede, but when I regeared, it was hard to distinguish what all was reducing my MPG since I had all the work done at once.
But one thing for sure about regearing and larger tires, long highway grades are much easier to keep at the posted speed limit. Your tranny won't be hunting back and forth for gears.
You get 17MPG..... ever? That's better than I'm getting now with 32"'s. I think you just gave me the justification I needed to take this expenditure to the wife....4.88. With 35s I'm 10% overgeared (speedo reads 10% low). At 70-75 mph I get 16-17 mpg, unless there is a major headwind.