Back in stock: 80 Series Part-Time Kits (4 Viewers)

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Dumb question - Does anyone install a part-time transfer case spool, but NOT install the manual locking hubs?

I realize in 2WD the front driveshaft, diff, and axles would all still be turning (but not powered).

But basically, can you leave the front drive flanges installed and have push-button 4WD?

Not a common conversion BUT that is precisely how many 4x, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, etc Land Cruisers were set up from the factory. Part-time t-case and drive flanges rather than hubs.
 
Not a common conversion BUT that is precisely how many 4x, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, etc Land Cruisers were set up from the factory. Part-time t-case and drive flanges rather than hubs.
Im trying to think this through on how it would work on putting an 80 case on my 60 series its got a 4l60e and ill be using a tcase adapter. Ive got locking hubs so theyll just unlock, so would it just spin the front driveshaft all the time but still send the power to the rear? Ive been trying to see what it would take to import a part time 80 case and its very cost prohibitive unfortunately
 
Im trying to think this through on how it would work on putting an 80 case on my 60 series its got a 4l60e and ill be using a tcase adapter. Ive got locking hubs so theyll just unlock, so would it just spin the front driveshaft all the time but still send the power to the rear? Ive been trying to see what it would take to import a part time 80 case and its very cost prohibitive unfortunately

Simply use the 80 full-time HF2A/HF2AV and add the part-time kit. Front shaft doesn't spin until you engage H4, just like a split-case.

However, why not just run the BF1 split t-case?
 
Simply use the 80 full-time HF2A/HF2AV and add the part-time kit. Front shaft doesn't spin until you engage H4, just like a split-case.

However, why not just run the BF1 split t-case?
Unfortunately the split case whines with the advance adapters adapter that mates the split case to the 4l60e. Ive been battling it for 2 years now, new adapter bearings, 2 tcase rebuilds, an entire new split case from yall.... theres always a whine coming from the adapter itself. @Dubs2017 and i have been trying to get it figured out on our vehicles for a while and just about everyone we talk to confirms theirs whine too.

The 80 case behind the 4l60e.... doesnt whine, and you can drop in the low range gears without having to machine the case.

On the HF2A wouldnt it need to be in H4 all the time to drive around? It only has H4-N-L4 as selections on the shifter
 
Unfortunately the split case whines with the advance adapters adapter that mates the split case to the 4l60e. Ive been battling it for 2 years now, new adapter bearings, 2 tcase rebuilds, an entire new split case from yall.... theres always a whine coming from the adapter itself. @Dubs2017 and i have been trying to get it figured out on our vehicles for a while and just about everyone we talk to confirms theirs whine too.

The 80 case behind the 4l60e.... doesnt whine, and you can drop in the low range gears without having to machine the case.

Totally make sense.

On the HF2A wouldnt it need to be in H4 all the time to drive around? It only has H4-N-L4 as selections on the shifter

No, when you add the part-time time spool to the HF2A/HF2AV... it becomes part time. With the CDL actuator unlocked, it powers only the rear shaft. Lock the CDL, it's now equally powering the front and rear, exactly like a split case.
 
Totally make sense.



No, when you add the part-time time spool to the HF2A/HF2AV... it becomes part time. With the CDL actuator unlocked, it powers only the rear shaft. Lock the CDL, it's now equally powering the front and rear, exactly like a split case.
dude that is amazing, ive didnt know that it powered the rear unlocked, i was thinking about it like a diff thinking unlocked it would send all the power to the front driveshaft since with the hubs unlocked it would have the least resistance. This is definitely the move for the 60 series LS Swap 4l60e folks. The Adapter choices for the split case are all pretty bad quality to be honest, and the 80 tcase is nothing but upsides. The split case also likes to bind going in and out of 2wd-4wd and high to low with the way the linkage is with the LS Swaps too. I think 80 tcase will be much easier to shift, especially with 2wd-4wd being controlled by the locking push button. heck yes


Thank you for the info! Adding this to the LS Swap thread so people can just skip the split case all together and avoid the tcase whine
 
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dude that is amazing, ive didnt know that it powered the rear unlocked, i was thinking about it like a diff thinking unlocked it would send all the power to the front driveshaft since with the hubs unlocked it would have the least resistance. This is definitely the move for the 80 series LS Swap folks. The Adapter choices for the split case are all pretty bad quality to be honest, and the 80 tcase is nothing but upsides. The split case also likes to bind going in and out of 2wd-4wd and high to low with the way the linkage is with the LS Swaps too. I think 80 tcase will be much easier to shift, especially with 2wd-4wd being controlled by the locking push button. heck yes


Thank you for the info! Adding this to the LS Swap thread so people can just skip the split case all together and avoid the tcase whine

The part-time spool eliminates the differential in the case. I love the HF2A/HF2AV (8x/10x t-case), particularly the short HF2A setup, it does make a great swap and we've built them for several customers putting them in older 4x/6x/7x Cruisers. The only real downside for some is the electronic CDL, but it is quite reliable, easy to wire and can be converted to manual or pnuematic of one insists.

We offer those cases brand new too. Options include high range gears, low range gears, part-time or full-time 4WD

1723147338224.png

 
The part-time spool eliminates the differential in the case. I love the HF2A/HF2AV (8x/10x t-case), particularly the short HF2A setup, it does make a great swap and we've built them for several customers putting them in older 4x/6x/7x Cruisers. The only real downside for some is the electronic CDL, but it is quite reliable, easy to wire and can be converted to manual or pnuematic of one insists.

We offer those cases brand new too. Options include high range gears, low range gears, part-time or full-time 4WD

View attachment 3697374
Just curious, whats the option to make it manual for the locking switch?
 
Just curious, whats the option to make it manual for the locking switch?

Nothing commercially available... yet. Icelandic folks and some folks in the Phillipines, etc have built custom one-off setups. There is an Aussie company selling the pneumatic ones. Myself and a few others are working on manual solutions as more and more use these for older swaps and 80 owners themselves want to eliminate the CDL actuator in favor of mechanical. The 80 CDL actuator went NLA within the last couple years (We installed one of the last NIB OEM units we had on @cruiserdan 's super tide 80 :cool:). Now, the 100/470 actuator functions the exact same but has a different connector, we offer a harness for the 80 owners wanting to use a new 100/470 unit and they are readily available for the time being. Of course in a conversion the connector is a non-issue.

Harness to use the available 100/470 CDL actuator in the 80 fwiw:
 
Nothing commercially available... yet. Icelandic folks and some folks in the Phillipines, etc have built custom one-off setups. There is an Aussie company selling the pneumatic ones. Myself and a few others are working on manual solutions as more and more use these for older swaps and 80 owners themselves want to eliminate the CDL actuator in favor of mechanical. The 80 CDL actuator went NLA within the last couple years (We installed one of the last NIB OEM units we had on @cruiserdan 's super tide 80 :cool:). Now, the 100/470 actuator functions the exact same but has a different connector, we offer a harness for the 80 owners wanting to use a new 100/470 unit and they are readily available for the time being. Of course in a conversion the connector is a non-issue.

Harness to use the available 100/470 CDL actuator in the 80 fwiw:
good info on the actuator connector being different, i wouldnt have known that at all. Maybe by the time my 4l60 dies and its time to swap to the HF2A yall will have the manual selector available. Unfortunately the output shaft length that you cut on the 4l60e is shorter for the split case compared to the length you need for the HF2A. Im going to need to replace my output shaft during trans rebuild
 
The part-time spool eliminates the differential in the case. I love the HF2A/HF2AV (8x/10x t-case), particularly the short HF2A setup, it does make a great swap and we've built them for several customers putting them in older 4x/6x/7x Cruisers. The only real downside for some is the electronic CDL, but it is quite reliable, easy to wire and can be converted to manual or pnuematic of one insists.

We offer those cases brand new too. Options include high range gears, low range gears, part-time or full-time 4WD

View attachment 3697374
You mentioned you are seeing these in the older applications like 4x/6x/7x. Are these getting mounted behind H42/H55 or are these being used in behind automatic transmissions or something else?
 
You mentioned you are seeing these in the older applications like 4x/6x/7x. Are these getting mounted behind H42/H55 or are these being used in behind automatic transmissions or something else?

Behind the factory auto or H15x manuals. There isn't a reasonable way to run them behind a H41/42/55F
 
@cruiseroutfit Kurt can you talk me thru the CDL switch process for my part time swap project?

I have '94 FZJ80. Currently stock drivetrain/gears.
On the shelf, ready to install (purchased from Cruiserteq)
-RCV 300m axles
-Aisin locking hubs
-knuckle rebuild kit

And a fully built Transfer Case (Spool, Sumo under/over drive gearset, new bearings).

So... in order to tackle the install and make it all work, I'll need to install a CDL switch right? I see pn ELEC60010 on your site. (toyota pn 84725-60010) And following the relatively simple cdl install instructions on here or slee's page.

In the end I'll have Part time 4x4, with manual locking hubs (4x4 engaged by pressing cdl button and manually locking front hubs) but I will end up permanently disabling ABS, and have a lit ABS light on the dash correct?

Also, sell me on any of the "while you're in there" upgrades/mods/maintenance while doing this swap. Knuckle studs? TRE's? Thanks in advance
 
@cruiseroutfit Kurt can you talk me thru the CDL switch process for my part time swap project?

I have '94 FZJ80. Currently stock drivetrain/gears.
On the shelf, ready to install (purchased from Cruiserteq)
-RCV 300m axles
-Aisin locking hubs
-knuckle rebuild kit

And a fully built Transfer Case (Spool, Sumo under/over drive gearset, new bearings).

So... in order to tackle the install and make it all work, I'll need to install a CDL switch right? I see pn ELEC60010 on your site. (toyota pn 84725-60010) And following the relatively simple cdl install instructions on here or slee's page.

You need AISIN hubs, the CDL switch, and the Tcase spool to have the part-time function. The CDL switch becomes your 4x2 to 4x4 switch. CDL switch install is super easy.

In the end I'll have Part time 4x4, with manual locking hubs (4x4 engaged by pressing cdl button and manually locking front hubs) but I will end up permanently disabling ABS, and have a lit ABS light on the dash correct?

Yes, unless you at the ABS kit we offer:

Most want the ABS gone and disable the bulb fwiw.

Also, sell me on any of the "while you're in there" upgrades/mods/maintenance while doing this swap. Knuckle studs? TRE's? Thanks in advance

It’s all super straight forward, the hub studs and knuckle studs are certainly a great ‘while you’re in there’ item. You don’t really have to touch the tie rod ends but you can and it’s a good time to do them.
 
You need AISIN hubs, the CDL switch, and the Tcase spool to have the part-time function. The CDL switch becomes your 4x2 to 4x4 switch. CDL switch install is super easy.



Yes, unless you at the ABS kit we offer:

Most want the ABS gone and disable the bulb fwiw.



It’s all super straight forward, the hub studs and knuckle studs are certainly a great ‘while you’re in there’ item. You don’t really have to touch the tie rod ends but you can and it’s a good time to do them.
Awesome! thanks for the info. Going to order up the knuckle and hub studs. Can you tell me what the difference is between the HUB6997KSET and HUB6997KASET? Looks like they're both Aisin parts, one just has a toyota PN?
 
Awesome! thanks for the info. Going to order up the knuckle and hub studs. Can you tell me what the difference is between the HUB6997KSET and HUB6997KASET? Looks like they're both Aisin parts, one just has a toyota PN?

The HUB6997KA and KASET is aftermarket, we've sold thousands with great results but they are aftermarket and uses 13mm nuts (not my personal favorite). The HUB6997K and KSET is all 100% OEM Genuine Toyota. I'd suggest the OEM.
 
The HUN6997KA and KASET is aftermarket, we've sold thousands with great results but they are aftermarket and uses 13mm nuts (not my personal favorite). The HUB6997K and KSET is all 100% OEM Genuine Toyota. I'd suggest the OEM.
Copy. Thank you!
 
Question on the part time conversion spool-

Does disengaging 4wd require the D->R->D shifter dance?

Getting my CDL to unlock takes a bit of finagling from time to time. Curious if the spool is better about that. It's not the actuator, I can hear that moving. Just the diff lock.

Thanks.
 

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