B to 15B-F swap

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savvas

savvas

10 Year
Joined
Sep 25, 2011
Threads
16
Messages
94
Location
Nicosia, Cyprus
Edited (Feb 2017):

This turned out to be a frame off restoration of a BJ43 with a 15B-F and h41 so scroll down for more info.

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Not really a swap thread yet, but hopefully soon enough.

Tomorrow I will be looking at a 15BF, from a local wreckers yard that I am planning to put to my RHD BJ43 currently running the B engine and an H41 box.

My two main concerns are, whether the engine has been, in its past history:

1) Overheated, and

2) Starved on oil

Is there an easy way to tell which either of the two has ever happened?

He is asking 2500 euro for it which I think is a good deal provided the engine is in good shape.

I don't really trust the guy since he already showed me a 14B-T and said is bad on the rings after overheating and can change them for around 100 euro and also showed me another 15B with the rocker cover removed and a valve bridge missing claiming he can put back in no time and the engine will run perfect. Is he saying any good or not?

So I am solely relying on my judgement to get this one and needing all the help I can get!

Cheers!

P.S. Here are some photos of the 15B with the rocker cover removed and the missing bridge. (Not the one I am getting)


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You cant really tell if an engine has been starved of oil or overheated just by looking at the outside.Sometimes the oil may smell burnt but it would have to be really bad.
The simplest way to check a diesel engine is to do a cold start. This requires an engine not to have been started in the last 24 hours. You have to be careful because I have caught sellers starting an engine up for 10-20 seconds then shutting it down. This will help cover up defects
If the glow plugs are working and the battery and starter motor are good, the engine should start and run smoothly immediately with just a half second flash of smoke. If it hasnt been run in a long time ,it may take a little longer. An engine with low compression on one or more cylinders will run rough and belch out grey smoke until the combustion chamber warms up.

The other way of telling an engines condition is a compression test. You need a diesel compression tester and you need to know the engine compression specs.

Apart from getting a good engine ,you also need to be aware that fuel injection pumps can be EXPENSIVE to repair.

He says an engine has been overheated. How badly was it overheated? Engines can take some abuse but you dont how bad the overheating was or wasnt. Putting new rings in may fix it but if it needs them it is more than likely a worn out engine and it will only cover up problems for a short while.
Again a compression test is needed.

These engines would be out of Toyota Dyna trucks and will have done a lot of work, how they have been looked after from new is anyone's guess
I would judge his engines as running rebuildables, I would not expect to get high miles out of them.
I would not buy them without seeing them do a GENUINE cold start unless the price was really low.

Is he offering some kind of warranty or guarantee with them?
 
Ok guys, I finally got my hands on one of the latest and greatest..now I am tearing down the forty and preparing the B for removal...
@roscoFJ73 I managed to source another engine from another wrecker so lets just hope the engine will last; great info though, I feel a compression test is a must but i 'll see....

Next, I will remove the right wing from the oil pan, remove all the vacuum hoses from the 15B, give it a cleanup, and put the alternator from the B on the 15B without the vacuum...

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It took me 4 months to track one down and where I live not too many exist..you can always import a dyna with the 15b on it from Japan, as a parts car, for around 6000 dollars excluding shipping..thats some big cash though and it always depends on their s***ty imports regulations...
 
The 15B flywheel measures 360 mm and the B 330 mm. The B bellhousing does not fit the 15B so now I must figure a way to bolt the h41 to the 15B. Notice the difference between the B and 15B flywheel teeth.

I am thinking of buying the engine side of the two piece aluminum 15B bellhousing and use the 15B clutch, pressure plate, starter and starter plate. And then fab an adapter to go from the bellhousing to the gearbox. Anyone got part number for the aluminum bellhousing?

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Found a part number for the 2-piece aluminum bellhousing engine side..if I opt for that option I will need the clutch disk and the clutch cover of the 15B provided the B bellhousing attaches to the aluminum one... another option is to find an 8 bolt flywheel and use all the B parts
 
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Might be a good idea to take the pics from ToyoDIY down before someone gets bent out of shape.... Your swap is off to a great start, interested to see how it will turn out
 
Got the ToyoDIY pics down...
Since I removed half the truck, I thought it would be nice to remove the tub and sent the frame for sandblasting...so thats where I am heading...

Today I busted my a** off to get the tub out with no luck..tomorrow I am bringing over a forklift to finish a half's day job in ten minutes..pictures to follow...
 
You will not regret having the frame blasted and cleaned up. I only WISH I would have done my FJ40 project that way. Post some more pics as you go along!
 
Gave the chassis a fair bit of cleanup with the pressure washer. The good news is that is not rotten through nowhere on the rails.

Now I gotta find a place to sandblast it and paint it with underseal..

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I am not sure which way to go about chassis cleanup and treatment. I got a quote for dustless blasting for 250 euro. Then I am thinking of applying regular metal primer (the brownish stuff) and then a good coat of underseal. I read somewhere here though, that due to the water in the dustless blasting a phosphate coating will be needed after the blasting. What do you guys think about this?

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It's looking good. I don't know the answer to your blasting question. I've always had things done with traditional media (basically gritty sand) and then you can prep it anyway you want. I like red oxide primer followed by color. Since you have taken the time to strip the frame down correctly, I'd go ahead and get the blasting done. It will be SO much cleaner than if you try to do things by hand. And whatever primer you end up using will adhere to the bare blasted metal very, very well
 
savvas said:
The 15B flywheel measures 360 mm and the B 330 mm. The B bellhousing does not fit the 15B so now I must figure a way to bolt the h41 to the 15B. Notice the difference between the B and 15B flywheel teeth.

I am thinking of buying the engine side of the two piece aluminum 15B bellhousing and use the 15B clutch, pressure plate, starter and starter plate. And then fab an adapter to go from the bellhousing to the gearbox. Anyone got part number for the aluminum bellhousing?

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A 70 series alloy bell housing from a 13bt will fit upto the 15 b and mate to the h41. As it happens I have a spare....but in nz
 
@Rock40 thanks for the input. I am getting the sandblasting done and if I find a place for galvanizing the frame I will do it and then apply the underseal.
 
@hotpoker01 with the alloy bell housing will the input shaft of the h41 be long enough or will I need to change that too ?
 
Oh the alloy bell housing fit assumes a 330 mm diameter fly wheel. The 360mm possibly might not fit.
 
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