Auto to 5 Speed
- Thread starter BC-Luc
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Its a plug and play installation. Your best bet is to buy a parts 5 speed truck with the transmission that you want so you have all of the bits and pieces for installing the clutch pedal and making the hole in the floor look pretty. Thats the hardest part of it all and as long as you have a drill and a hole saw, then even that is easy.
Then sell off the rest of the truck that you dont need to recoup the $$$.
No need for a 5 speed ECU.
Then sell off the rest of the truck that you dont need to recoup the $$$.
No need for a 5 speed ECU.
It does depend on what year you're talking about. For the '91 in your sig, no problem. Current ones are a different story.
- Thread starter
- #4
Hey guys,
Thanks for the replys.
I just got myself a 94 V6 Std for a parts truck, has a recent clutch and a bunch of new parts as well.
This swap would be for a late 2nd gen 4Runner, 94/95.
So all I need is the clutch pedal assb and the manual tranny?
So the ECU is in no way connected to the auto tranny?
Thanks, Luc
Thanks for the replys.
I just got myself a 94 V6 Std for a parts truck, has a recent clutch and a bunch of new parts as well.
This swap would be for a late 2nd gen 4Runner, 94/95.
So all I need is the clutch pedal assb and the manual tranny?
So the ECU is in no way connected to the auto tranny?
Thanks, Luc
The devil is in the details...
4WD, right?
Yes on the pedals, and jury's still out on the front shaft and trans/TC crossmember.
You prolly already know, but I want to make sure you know the TC will not come off and work with your truck should it be a 2WD...
And if your parts truck is non-ADD I'd grab the long side off it and replace it with your ADD long shaft...
Oh wait... Only if you plan of committing it to non ADD and manual hubs...
You can leave it there and still have shift on the fly with your hubs locked, and unlock them when you travel long distances to help with wear and MPG...
Just don't do the "band clamp" "mod"
over on Yotatech...ADD to Manual locking hub conversion 4wd third member mod. - YotaTech Forums
- Thread starter
- #7
Both trucks will be 4WD's and parts truck has ADD.
RE Hubs and ADD; I'll do the same thing as I did to my 91. Keep the ADD system and add manual hubs.
So, most likely, I'll find an Auto 4WD with ADD and I'll just swap the Auto with TC for the 5 speed with TC.
Thanks KLF for the neutral safety switch info. I'll read up on the wires location. Might just turn that into a "anti-theft" device.
All for now, thanks for the great info guys. I'll let you know what I find!
Luc
RE Hubs and ADD; I'll do the same thing as I did to my 91. Keep the ADD system and add manual hubs.
So, most likely, I'll find an Auto 4WD with ADD and I'll just swap the Auto with TC for the 5 speed with TC.
Thanks KLF for the neutral safety switch info. I'll read up on the wires location. Might just turn that into a "anti-theft" device.
All for now, thanks for the great info guys. I'll let you know what I find!
Luc
yikes
Or just keep looking?
Or just keep looking?
- Thread starter
- #9
Or just keep looking?
After doing more googling I figured this swap was not appropriate for my tiny garage, so, I kept looking.
I found myself a nice 95 V6 Std Sequoia Edition. No rust, power group, sunroof, leather, AC and recent rear OME coils and shocks.
Needed a clutch, so I called up Marlin for his kit and also got the flywheel, new bolts and the shifter seat and socket as well.
Also changed the wires, plugs, rotor and cap, did an oil change greased the nipples and added four to the ball joints.
Also, installed manual hubs, and my warn bumper and winch.
That's it for now!
Luc
96 was the first year for rear coils in the US, was it different in Canada?
Also never heard of a Sequoia edition, canada also?
Rear coils appeared in the 2nd gen 4Runners, starting in 1990.
I've also never heard of a "Sequoia Edition". We need pics.
For those wondering, a 5speed swap into an auto 94' 3.0 runner is not difficult.
My father and i did it in a weekend.
Rip out the old transmission
Literally its a bolt up to the same crossmember etc.
I ran the same wiring harness. For a the 92+ you'll need an electronic speedo sensor. Plugs in from the old auto harness.
I spliced my reverse light switch from a manual wiring harness to my auto harness. Didn't bother hooking up the 4wd switch since i bypassed my ADD via vacuum hoses (find the one that is taking suction while the engine is running... move it to the side that is currently not drawing suction, and cap the other end. This will always pull the actuator to the 4wd side and engage it.) and i run Manual hubs. (yes that makes my diff always be in 4wd, but since my hubs are unlocked its OK) No 4wd light.
If you decide to splice the right switch in to the auto harness, it still controls the electronic solenoid that controls the ADD... your 4wd should work fine.
To bypass the park-neutral switch, just take a 5" piece of wire, with two male ends and run it through the main plug, check a wiring book. I chose to do that, since it works as a clutchless start all the time.. (just be careful to not turn your key if your clutch isnt depressed!) my remote start doesnt work anymore either. not a big deal.
The clutch pedal assembly bolts RIGHT in...
The worst part is running the hardlines. I picked those up from pull a part, same with the clutch pedal assembly (anything from an 88-94 4wd will work). The softline i bought new from NAPA. The mounts for it i got from pull a part.
The driveline from the auto is 2 inches short (the auto transmission is 2 inches longer) Any manual driveline from a R150F 88-94 4runner (and it think reg cab shortbed truck) will work.
I cut my old center console to have it fit. Didnt bother getting the leatherette... i mean come on, its a DD/Wheeling truck, screw the leatherette!
Front driveline is the same. Although i found that my manual did not come with a shield for the double cardon, nor did my automatics fit onto the manual.
I think thats bout it...
-Matt
My father and i did it in a weekend.
Rip out the old transmission
Literally its a bolt up to the same crossmember etc.
I ran the same wiring harness. For a the 92+ you'll need an electronic speedo sensor. Plugs in from the old auto harness.
I spliced my reverse light switch from a manual wiring harness to my auto harness. Didn't bother hooking up the 4wd switch since i bypassed my ADD via vacuum hoses (find the one that is taking suction while the engine is running... move it to the side that is currently not drawing suction, and cap the other end. This will always pull the actuator to the 4wd side and engage it.) and i run Manual hubs. (yes that makes my diff always be in 4wd, but since my hubs are unlocked its OK) No 4wd light.
If you decide to splice the right switch in to the auto harness, it still controls the electronic solenoid that controls the ADD... your 4wd should work fine.
To bypass the park-neutral switch, just take a 5" piece of wire, with two male ends and run it through the main plug, check a wiring book. I chose to do that, since it works as a clutchless start all the time.. (just be careful to not turn your key if your clutch isnt depressed!) my remote start doesnt work anymore either. not a big deal.
The clutch pedal assembly bolts RIGHT in...
The worst part is running the hardlines. I picked those up from pull a part, same with the clutch pedal assembly (anything from an 88-94 4wd will work). The softline i bought new from NAPA. The mounts for it i got from pull a part.
The driveline from the auto is 2 inches short (the auto transmission is 2 inches longer) Any manual driveline from a R150F 88-94 4runner (and it think reg cab shortbed truck) will work.
I cut my old center console to have it fit. Didnt bother getting the leatherette... i mean come on, its a DD/Wheeling truck, screw the leatherette!
Front driveline is the same. Although i found that my manual did not come with a shield for the double cardon, nor did my automatics fit onto the manual.
I think thats bout it...
-Matt
so i am doing a similar swap and i am at the point of trying to sort out the clutch start swith~ I cant seem to find out where i need to connect the clutch swith to? Do i run wires to the ecu or do i tap into the wires for the small auto trans box that was mounted in the cabin just infront of the auto shifter? ~ any help would be apprecaited
Are you talking about the neutral start switch? Do you really want it? Just tie the wires together. Especially if you don't have the neutral start switch on the tranny in the first place.
Pappy- thanks for the response- I don't have/think I need the neutral start switch on the dash- I just want the truck to start (any maybe get the cruise to work). I just don't know what wires to tie together or what wires to jump to that switch at the pedal - make sense? I got a ecu from a 5 speed t100 but how do I tell it the clutch is pressed in - 1 so it will start and 2 for cruise to disengage.
There are two ways to kill the starter. The neutral start at the tranny. And the clutch kill. If your truck came with an auto, it didn't come with a clutch, and could not have come with a clutch kill.
The automatic tranny would have had a neutral start switch. That is the connector you need to short to let the truck start. With the T100 ECU, it might not matter if the ECU is from a manual because it won't be looking for the signal.
As far as the cruise control, you might be on your own there. The cruise does have a function that kills the cruise when you hit the clutch. It should be a switch similar to the brake light switch. The question is does your existing harness support the clutch switch.
The automatic tranny would have had a neutral start switch. That is the connector you need to short to let the truck start. With the T100 ECU, it might not matter if the ECU is from a manual because it won't be looking for the signal.
As far as the cruise control, you might be on your own there. The cruise does have a function that kills the cruise when you hit the clutch. It should be a switch similar to the brake light switch. The question is does your existing harness support the clutch switch.