Uhm... garage... hello.
How dare you say backyard?
Attempting the next best engine swap for 80s IMO
- Thread starter Drewthecarguy
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How dare you say backyard?
- Thread starter
- #302
Finally figured out the combo to use a type 2 GM power steering pump that had a built in reservoir on the correct side I need it on to clear the downpipe. Almost every GM pump has it on the other side.
Figured the best way to test it to make sure I didn’t have any problems with it or it didn’t have enough power to turn 37s was to hit some trails up
Drove 2.5 hours down to Kentucky Lake and hit up the Turkey Bay Off road park. Rode trails for 7 hours and drove 2.5 hours back home. Had zero issues.
Trail riding with torque at low RPM is a different ball game compared to the LT1.
Figured the best way to test it to make sure I didn’t have any problems with it or it didn’t have enough power to turn 37s was to hit some trails up
Drove 2.5 hours down to Kentucky Lake and hit up the Turkey Bay Off road park. Rode trails for 7 hours and drove 2.5 hours back home. Had zero issues.
Trail riding with torque at low RPM is a different ball game compared to the LT1.
What type II pump is that? Have a model number?
On LS conversions, normal type II PS reservoir does interfere with the steering box..would be great to find one with a top reservoir that would work.
On LS conversions, normal type II PS reservoir does interfere with the steering box..would be great to find one with a top reservoir that would work.
The old Saginaw pumps are what most people use on LS swaps. I did an LT swap and used the Swaptime Drive, which mounts a Type 2 pump up high.
Swaptime USA accessory drive
No issues with clearance to the steering box, and easier to check the PS fluid.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Where does the alternator and ac compressor go
Yes, I know the older Saginaw pumps work, but my question is the model of the type II pump that was used. Although, the reservoir part number is more important.
I used a remote reservoir with my type II pump, but it would have been cheaper (and simpler) if I could have just found a reservoir that didn't cause clearance issues with the steering box.
Here is my setup:
From Mitch's site (Swaptime)
What thermostat are you running? or what is the diameter of the thermostat are you running? I was looking online and Mishimoto makes a High-Temp thermostat that starts to open at 205 and is fully open by 220. I wonder if this would be a good option for the LM2 with your adapter. Its technically for 2nd and 3rd gen Cummins.
Thermostat, High-Temp, fits Dodge 5.9L/6.7L Cummins 1999-2013
A defective thermostat can result in engine overheating and potential internal damage. Improve the reliability of your 5.9L/6.7L cooling system with a Mishimoto Dodge 5.9L/6.7L Cummins High-Temperature Thermostat! This Cummins performance thermostat is designed as a direct-fit replacement for...
www.mishimoto.com
- Thread starter
- #308
I use GM SBC stuff. I’ve been using a 195 thermostat in all the ordersWhat thermostat are you running? or what is the diameter of the thermostat are you running? I was looking online and Mishimoto makes a High-Temp thermostat that starts to open at 205 and is fully open by 220. I wonder if this would be a good option for the LM2 with your adapter. Its technically for 2nd and 3rd gen Cummins.
Thermostat, High-Temp, fits Dodge 5.9L/6.7L Cummins 1999-2013
A defective thermostat can result in engine overheating and potential internal damage. Improve the reliability of your 5.9L/6.7L cooling system with a Mishimoto Dodge 5.9L/6.7L Cummins High-Temperature Thermostat! This Cummins performance thermostat is designed as a direct-fit replacement for...
If you're starting from scratch, it's always smart to use parts you can practically get at the grocery store.
- Thread starter
- #311
I haven’t updated this in a while might as well keep everyone up to date on the swap.
Well I pulled it out a couple months ago lol
I put a 6.6L L8T and a BMW 8hp transmission in its place
The L8T is a great motor. IMO the best modern GM V8 ever made. It doesn’t have all the DOD AFM crap all the other V8s have. Iron block and 6.6L. I did this swap because I wanted to learn all about the 8hp swaps everyone is getting into and see what all the hype is about.
I ran a Maxxecu mini to control the transmission and a GM ECM to control the engine.
Combo worked great. There is a lot of cool things about the 8hp I wish GM would get with. CANBUS control is cool because you don’t have shifter cables to work with and all that stuff. I first used a BMW F10 shifter for a while. Then I decided to ditch all that and picked up a brand new Toyota GR86 steering wheel
With that I just used the paddle shifters for everything. Double tap + to go into drive. Hold both for park. All that jazz.
Then about a week after getting that swap done I drove it from Illinois to Moab
No matter how or where I was driving it would 11 MPG which isn’t bad for a bigger V8
After I got back home from Moab I realized the L8T and 8hp combo was better than the LT1/10 speed but didn’t come close to the LM2/10 speed. It for sure had more HP up top and would pull itself to redline but I’m not driving a race car. The LM2 has so much torque down low. Daily driving the LM2 is like a breeze compared to the V8s.
So I pulled the L8T out lol
Well I pulled it out a couple months ago lol
I put a 6.6L L8T and a BMW 8hp transmission in its place
The L8T is a great motor. IMO the best modern GM V8 ever made. It doesn’t have all the DOD AFM crap all the other V8s have. Iron block and 6.6L. I did this swap because I wanted to learn all about the 8hp swaps everyone is getting into and see what all the hype is about.
I ran a Maxxecu mini to control the transmission and a GM ECM to control the engine.
Combo worked great. There is a lot of cool things about the 8hp I wish GM would get with. CANBUS control is cool because you don’t have shifter cables to work with and all that stuff. I first used a BMW F10 shifter for a while. Then I decided to ditch all that and picked up a brand new Toyota GR86 steering wheel
With that I just used the paddle shifters for everything. Double tap + to go into drive. Hold both for park. All that jazz.
Then about a week after getting that swap done I drove it from Illinois to Moab
No matter how or where I was driving it would 11 MPG which isn’t bad for a bigger V8
After I got back home from Moab I realized the L8T and 8hp combo was better than the LT1/10 speed but didn’t come close to the LM2/10 speed. It for sure had more HP up top and would pull itself to redline but I’m not driving a race car. The LM2 has so much torque down low. Daily driving the LM2 is like a breeze compared to the V8s.
So I pulled the L8T out lol
- Thread starter
- #312
So I’m in the process of putting the LM2/10speed back in the cruiser. But I’m doing things differently this time around.
Kinda making it cleaner and simpler if that makes sense
First thing I did was make a new block off plate for the engine oil cooler
Before I just cut the hose ends off because i didn’t use the cooler but of course no one makes a block off plate like they do for LS/LTs
I had to port a hole between the passages then designed a plate in CAD to cover it up
Next on my list was engine mounts.
Before I was using my stock 1hdt rubber mounts with custom brackets off the engine.
That worked good but it seemed like my truck would vibrate sitting at stop lights and stuff.
So I cut the factory mounts off the frame (which I told myself I was never going to do incase I ever wanted to go back to stock) but I have decided this is the last time I’m swapping motors lol
So I designed a very simple bracket that holds a hydraulic motor mount from a C6 Corvette
With the motor back it mounts were extremely easy to make off the engine now
Kinda making it cleaner and simpler if that makes sense
First thing I did was make a new block off plate for the engine oil cooler
Before I just cut the hose ends off because i didn’t use the cooler but of course no one makes a block off plate like they do for LS/LTs
I had to port a hole between the passages then designed a plate in CAD to cover it up
Next on my list was engine mounts.
Before I was using my stock 1hdt rubber mounts with custom brackets off the engine.
That worked good but it seemed like my truck would vibrate sitting at stop lights and stuff.
So I cut the factory mounts off the frame (which I told myself I was never going to do incase I ever wanted to go back to stock) but I have decided this is the last time I’m swapping motors lol
So I designed a very simple bracket that holds a hydraulic motor mount from a C6 Corvette
With the motor back it mounts were extremely easy to make off the engine now
- Thread starter
- #313
Basically just had to make some 90 degree brackets off of the factory LM2 motor mount locations
Next order of business was brakes
Before I was using an older tesla model S vacuum pump for the brake booster. That kinda bothered me because it cluttered up the engine bay. So I converted the factory brakes to the Gen 2 Ibooster from a Model S
Very simple wiring with one of those eBay wiring harnesses that just need a 3 wire hook up
Ok next up
Another thing that kinda bothered me before was the air to water intercooler that comes with the LM2. Of course it was designed for the engine. But once again I’m trying to make things more simple. I didn’t want to have to worry about my coolant pump or any of the hoses leaking so I just got rid of it all and I’m going to see how just a simple air to air intercooler does on the LM2
I have all the pipes mocked up and the front mount mounted
Surprisingly was still able to keep all my AC lines in tact
So that is where I am currently at. I actually everything back together and running last night but haven’t taken any pictures or a chance to drive it
Next order of business was brakes
Before I was using an older tesla model S vacuum pump for the brake booster. That kinda bothered me because it cluttered up the engine bay. So I converted the factory brakes to the Gen 2 Ibooster from a Model S
Very simple wiring with one of those eBay wiring harnesses that just need a 3 wire hook up
Ok next up
Another thing that kinda bothered me before was the air to water intercooler that comes with the LM2. Of course it was designed for the engine. But once again I’m trying to make things more simple. I didn’t want to have to worry about my coolant pump or any of the hoses leaking so I just got rid of it all and I’m going to see how just a simple air to air intercooler does on the LM2
I have all the pipes mocked up and the front mount mounted
Surprisingly was still able to keep all my AC lines in tact
So that is where I am currently at. I actually everything back together and running last night but haven’t taken any pictures or a chance to drive it
- Thread starter
- #314
One other cool thing that I think is cool but most people probably won’t lol
I designed a brake caliper bracket to use a Wilwood 6 piston on a factory 97 brake rotor
My crusier is a 92 so its brakes are tiny. I knew I had to upgrade to at least the newer rotors and calipers but I figured I’d just try something else. Anything has to be better than the 92 size brakes
I designed a brake caliper bracket to use a Wilwood 6 piston on a factory 97 brake rotor
My crusier is a 92 so its brakes are tiny. I knew I had to upgrade to at least the newer rotors and calipers but I figured I’d just try something else. Anything has to be better than the 92 size brakes
COS80
SILVER Star
This is so chaotically entertaining, if there weren't pictures to back it up I wouldn't believe it.
This is really cool, is there a way to adjust brake bias front/rear maybe through the Tesla MC? Are these the factory FJ rotors or larger FZJ?
A long time ago I was a Honda guy and built a "budget" big brake setup utilizing NSX calipers and Prelude rotors with a custom bracket. It was all mounted to a 1993 Civic SI hatchback, worked great! Your setup seems like it could be a great solution
Haha I put NSX calipers on my 4th Gen prelude.
Assuming the model s master is the same as my model y master I put on my 80, there is no adjustment between front and rear bias. You could plumb in a manual valve if you wanted, but mine seems pretty well balanced and lock up evenly/ predictably.
- Thread starter
- #320
FZJ rotors. They were the perfect thickness and diameter needed for the Wilwoods