Out of curiosity, how much do these swaps typically cost you? I will eventually have to swap out my 60's 2F for something that gets MPGs in the double digits, and I think an LM2 swap is the path I'm taking.
Attempting the next best engine swap for 80s IMO
- Thread starter Drewthecarguy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #382
That’s always hard to say. I’d say it costs the same as a LT swap
you want to buy my new motor? It's superchargedWell do it then
I'm not trying to get into a pissing match but I think the logic of putting a non-us Toyota diesel into a US Toyota truck just because it's Toyota is not sound. Parts are hard to get, no one knows them. yea, they are cool but I just don't see it as practical. Honestly, my last project of replacing my 1FZ turned into a very expensive parts search having to source parts from Japan.
This is a practical application that you can get parts for all over the country.
Break down in a 1HD and then try to find a quick part for it and wait for the Toyota purist fairy to fly down.... just saying.
This is a practical application that you can get parts for all over the country.
Break down in a 1HD and then try to find a quick part for it and wait for the Toyota purist fairy to fly down.... just saying.
I agree, its not practical for a 1HD, but 95% of us arent into landcruisers because they are practical, especially the 30+ year old ones.
My FTE has been awesome, love the swap even stock its a much better driving experience then my tired 1fz-fe.
It has 320,000km's on it, and the only issues ive had is pump speed connector likes to wiggle loose.
With that being said, I keep thinking about an LM2 in a 60 on an 80s chassis. That just depends on what they are priced at in a few years, and how much aftermarket engine management support they may have.
Currently theres only one aftermarket ECU for the FTE, and ive heard mixed reviews for it. So if you tune it, your stuck with unichip.
Theres a ton of reasons to go either way and I think the more options for 80s series owners the better.
Maybe depending on price. Is it smog compliant?
GM didn't so much replace it as revise it into the LZ0. I see HPTuners claims they support the LZ0 now, but I wonder if that's just basic tuning, or the ability to delete parts like on the LM2. There's tuning and then there's tuning...
It seems like GM did their usual thing... design something really good, then cut every corner they can for the initial production version, then revise it to fix the things that broke. That said, it doesn't look like they changed a ton in all reality. Like, that increased oil pump belt life is just an update to the spec: it's literally the same part. I'm amused that they simplified that godawful cooling system though. I wonder if any of the parts like that larger impeller water pump would bolt up to the older version. Getting even cooling all the way to the back of an I6 has always been a challenge.
- Thread starter
- #389
Looks like the oil pump belt is 38 bucks. If you can turn a wrench you just do it yourself. What I always tell myself is it’s just nuts and bolts. Take them apart and put them back together. Easy as that
hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
I think it says it’s greater than $1,000. Or > $1,000
Ha! You're right, I ignored the line above it.
Yeah, I certainly wouldn't be paying someone to do a belt in an engine I swapped in myself. Still, I just don't see it as that big a deal every 200k, but that's somewhere between ten and twenty years for me. I guess I can understand the gripes from the guys who do that in a couple of years.
Actually, specifically from a swap perspective, I don't know how much space is available between engine and radiator, or how much is needed to do the belt, but what about a motor mount system that's designed to allow it to slide forward? Sort of a cradle arrangement. Pull bellhousing bolts, intake hose, maybe fan, and say two bolts on each motor mount, then slide it forward. Not sure how realistic it is without looking at all the parts in person, but it's worth some thought.
Actually, specifically from a swap perspective, I don't know how much space is available between engine and radiator, or how much is needed to do the belt, but what about a motor mount system that's designed to allow it to slide forward? Sort of a cradle arrangement. Pull bellhousing bolts, intake hose, maybe fan, and say two bolts on each motor mount, then slide it forward. Not sure how realistic it is without looking at all the parts in person, but it's worth some thought.
- Thread starter
- #393
Good thought. But actually I could easily just tilt the engine back and pull the transmission easily and do the belt. I have maybe 5 inches between firewall and back of cylinder head. I did that so transfercase sits in stock location
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 187
- Messages
- 13,340
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
While I'm not pulling the FT out of my 80 this swap does intrigue me to replace the TBI small block in my FJ40 instead of the standard 5.3 LS that was the planned modern replacement. Is there a manual trans that can bolt to it or is the 10 speed auto mandatory?
- Thread starter
- #396
I haven’t really posted any updated engine bay pictures lately. I’m now air to air, Tesla brake booster and master. Back to single battery. And I got rid of the stock air box and now on a 4 inch intake. I plan on making a air box to be able to suck fresh air from fender well and maybe get a snorkel to get intake temps as low as possible
Also picked up a real nice radium catch can I mounted on my battery tray.
Next step is I need to get my intercooler pipe powder coated. Probably do maroon or black
Also picked up a real nice radium catch can I mounted on my battery tray.
Next step is I need to get my intercooler pipe powder coated. Probably do maroon or black
Very cool! Is there a lot of aftermarket support for these things yet? Tunes, ect. Thats one of the benefits of going LS curious if its the same for the diesel engines from GM.
What was involved in mounting the Tesla brake booster and master?
Also is there enough room to flip the 90 for your intake to the left side of the vehicle and run the intake along the charge piping? You could build an intake box where the other battery sat.
Also is there enough room to flip the 90 for your intake to the left side of the vehicle and run the intake along the charge piping? You could build an intake box where the other battery sat.
Looking at the pictures, it almost seems like the Tesla booster would fit easier on a NA rig and not interfere with the stock airbox... which I prefer, personally: it's big, but well designed.
- Thread starter
- #400
To mount the Tesla booster I just drilled new holes in the firewall. And reinforced the brake pedal bracket for it. Yea I can run the intake pipe over there that’s a pretty good idea.