Builds Atnolan94 Land Crooser Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter atnolan94
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not new but $550 OBO fully put together not the kit.
Why are all the good parts west of the Mississippi? Time to move...
no swingouts but again OBO lol I have decided I dont need/ want since I have my M101A trailer and would prefer to go with a front bumper if any over the rear.
not wheeling as much as going on road trips and preserving original LC for my 3 year old. It will be his so I am thinking of maintaining factory for most of it and then buying a 200 maybe in 3-5 years so I can keep miles off the 100 at 220,000 miles. He knows that it is a LC and calls it buy its name and I tell him its his when he is able to drive....
Genuinely wish I could buy it off you, but I doubt you'd wanna deal with shipping it all the way to the East Coast.
In massachusetts? Not sure I could swing it for the price it might cost. Let me know what cost are of shipping and maybe we can work something out?
Sorry @atnolan94 didnt mean to turn into a sell thread
Really want to get some but cant afford it at the time. I scored 10,000 miles OEM shocks with bushings for free and after looking at the bushings on mine from 02 they are gone haha what a harsh ride but yes up next a set of these or the spc ones for around $550. What a difference it would make in my ride quality as its pretty rough.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
- Thread starter
- #253
Got my TC UCAs on yesterday using their instructional videos which were super helpful. When pulling the eccentrics to swap the UCAs I could then my alignment tech had to push the front eccentric all the way out and the rear eccentric all the way in to artificially get some castor. This explains why my bushings have been creaking lately.
I reinstalled the eccentrics with the new UCAs and just installed the front one all the way out and the rear one at neutral, assuming that I didn’t want to bind the bushings. As it turns out I really needed a set of UCA’s because it forced so much positive camber the truck was almost undrivable, as in the front view of the truck looked like this \——/
Luckily to adjust camber (at least from the UCAs) you really don’t even have to pull the tires on a 100. I turned my eccentrics to the 1-2 o’clock position, or 3/4 of the way to the innermost position, and this turned out to be a really good eyeball alignment. I still need to install my LCAs and get a professional alignment, but I am not DDing the cruiser right now so I have time.
Overall the ride is much better. I can tell you after pulling them that my upper ball joints were toast. I can feel how much the steering shored up. I do have a lot of visible play in my lowers so replacing those will be amazing. The steering at low speed feels more or less the same. Steering at any real speed, the wheel centers it’s self much better, wheres before is was just kind of floaty. My steering has been tight since I did my column and tie rods but the wheel feel is much more similar to stock.
In addition these are fully tubular with a 1” uniball, and I can tell you now, if something in my front end is going to break, it’s not these. My front end is pretty much maxed out on height, and you can see how comfortable these ICAs look at neurtral as compared to stock. And, while these don’t add articulation, they certailinly take away some stress from the front end at these lift heights.
I reinstalled the eccentrics with the new UCAs and just installed the front one all the way out and the rear one at neutral, assuming that I didn’t want to bind the bushings. As it turns out I really needed a set of UCA’s because it forced so much positive camber the truck was almost undrivable, as in the front view of the truck looked like this \——/
Luckily to adjust camber (at least from the UCAs) you really don’t even have to pull the tires on a 100. I turned my eccentrics to the 1-2 o’clock position, or 3/4 of the way to the innermost position, and this turned out to be a really good eyeball alignment. I still need to install my LCAs and get a professional alignment, but I am not DDing the cruiser right now so I have time.
Overall the ride is much better. I can tell you after pulling them that my upper ball joints were toast. I can feel how much the steering shored up. I do have a lot of visible play in my lowers so replacing those will be amazing. The steering at low speed feels more or less the same. Steering at any real speed, the wheel centers it’s self much better, wheres before is was just kind of floaty. My steering has been tight since I did my column and tie rods but the wheel feel is much more similar to stock.
In addition these are fully tubular with a 1” uniball, and I can tell you now, if something in my front end is going to break, it’s not these. My front end is pretty much maxed out on height, and you can see how comfortable these ICAs look at neurtral as compared to stock. And, while these don’t add articulation, they certailinly take away some stress from the front end at these lift heights.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
- Thread starter
- #254
The truck tracks soooo much better on the highway, way less wander. Just need to replace my LCAs with OEM replacements and my front end will be tight!
I installed my @TRAIL TAILOR rear hatch light/CB tabs. Still need to get some 2” LED pods to throw on but my 24” andtenna and spring mount perfectly to the passenger side tab.
I installed my @TRAIL TAILOR rear hatch light/CB tabs. Still need to get some 2” LED pods to throw on but my 24” andtenna and spring mount perfectly to the passenger side tab.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
- Thread starter
- #255
For anyone reading this, go buy a scangauge! This has saved me a lot of heartache two times this month.
1. I was driving to the deer lease which is about 110 hilly miles away. My water temp is usually in the ballpark of 182-188, and I might touch 190 with some other factors at play. I noticed on my way down that my water temp hit 190, then 192, then 194, and finally settled out around 200-202 and I was able to control it and get back to 188-190 by keeping my speed down. Oddly enough it has not done it since, but to me this is a clear indidcation of a sticky thermostat. My analog temp gauge in the cluster read normal the whole way, glad the scangauge told me of an IMPENDING issue before it happened.
2. I have seen since I got this scangauge that if I let the truck idle my voltage slowly dropped but came back with engine rpm. Never caused electrical or starter issues ever, except one time last summer I was on the tractor planting a good plot and left the car idling with AC on. I came back to a flickering radio and gauges. I drove a quick lap and voltage was back. Well on Thursday my alternator completely died on me, but again scangauge made this an unbelievably quick diagnosis.
I was beyond lucky that Toyota of Dallas had the alternator on the shelf for ~$200 plus a $75 core, which I returned the same day. There’s a big thread on it and some people made it sound like a 2 banana job, IT IS NOT AN EASY JOB. I think the 98-99 models came with an 80 amp alt that is physically smaller that the later model 100 amp alternators. That’s makes the job significantly more difficult. The power steering pump needs to be unbolted and pushed out of the way (this isn’t inherently hard), and squeezing the alternator out and back in is a huge pain.
My serpentine belt was super cracked and dry when I pulled it to unbolt the alternator and PS pump. No problem, I had to drain the coolant to pull the lower rad hose and pull the alternator so I needed coolant at Toyota anyways. ALSO was a good time to do my thermostat which has not failed but I know is sticky.
Also did an oil change with my usual amsoil and Toyota filter and a fresh drain plug washer.
Got it all put back together and filled up and immediately showed adequate voltage 13.8-14.2, I had no more chirping or squeaking from the engine bay. (I inspected my pulleys and they all spun great and my tensioner had plenty of life left). My AC clutch would squeal some when it engaged and that is all gone. I have also been chasing a hum that comes with engine rpm and it must have been my alternator because it is long gone. Overall the truck is purring better than ever and I’m very happy with the outcome because that alternator job was a PITA!!
1. I was driving to the deer lease which is about 110 hilly miles away. My water temp is usually in the ballpark of 182-188, and I might touch 190 with some other factors at play. I noticed on my way down that my water temp hit 190, then 192, then 194, and finally settled out around 200-202 and I was able to control it and get back to 188-190 by keeping my speed down. Oddly enough it has not done it since, but to me this is a clear indidcation of a sticky thermostat. My analog temp gauge in the cluster read normal the whole way, glad the scangauge told me of an IMPENDING issue before it happened.
2. I have seen since I got this scangauge that if I let the truck idle my voltage slowly dropped but came back with engine rpm. Never caused electrical or starter issues ever, except one time last summer I was on the tractor planting a good plot and left the car idling with AC on. I came back to a flickering radio and gauges. I drove a quick lap and voltage was back. Well on Thursday my alternator completely died on me, but again scangauge made this an unbelievably quick diagnosis.
I was beyond lucky that Toyota of Dallas had the alternator on the shelf for ~$200 plus a $75 core, which I returned the same day. There’s a big thread on it and some people made it sound like a 2 banana job, IT IS NOT AN EASY JOB. I think the 98-99 models came with an 80 amp alt that is physically smaller that the later model 100 amp alternators. That’s makes the job significantly more difficult. The power steering pump needs to be unbolted and pushed out of the way (this isn’t inherently hard), and squeezing the alternator out and back in is a huge pain.
My serpentine belt was super cracked and dry when I pulled it to unbolt the alternator and PS pump. No problem, I had to drain the coolant to pull the lower rad hose and pull the alternator so I needed coolant at Toyota anyways. ALSO was a good time to do my thermostat which has not failed but I know is sticky.
Also did an oil change with my usual amsoil and Toyota filter and a fresh drain plug washer.
Got it all put back together and filled up and immediately showed adequate voltage 13.8-14.2, I had no more chirping or squeaking from the engine bay. (I inspected my pulleys and they all spun great and my tensioner had plenty of life left). My AC clutch would squeal some when it engaged and that is all gone. I have also been chasing a hum that comes with engine rpm and it must have been my alternator because it is long gone. Overall the truck is purring better than ever and I’m very happy with the outcome because that alternator job was a PITA!!
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
- Thread starter
- #256
Well it’s been a couple months, the cruiser is running great with the new alternator, belt, tstat, etc. no cooling issues, no voltage issues, and it’s been very quiet.
I needed new lower ball joints and opted just to get whole new lower arms. This job wasn’t terrible, just a lot of steps since you have to remove the torsion bar torque collar, lower shock, sway bar end link, etc. I have done my tie rods, UCA, wheel bearings, and all and I can tell this by far made the biggest difference. Haven’t even had it aligned yet and the truck is tracking straighter than ever. Most importantly all my clunking is gone. Really happy with this job.
I needed new lower ball joints and opted just to get whole new lower arms. This job wasn’t terrible, just a lot of steps since you have to remove the torsion bar torque collar, lower shock, sway bar end link, etc. I have done my tie rods, UCA, wheel bearings, and all and I can tell this by far made the biggest difference. Haven’t even had it aligned yet and the truck is tracking straighter than ever. Most importantly all my clunking is gone. Really happy with this job.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
- Thread starter
- #257
In semi-more-exciting news, the 100 is no longer my DD. I have been casually eyeballing 07-09 Lexus LS470’s with the idea that early next year I’d get into one. I felt they were really affordable for what they are, a 10 year old, $70k original, flagship sedan. I happened to stumble across this 2008 with just 93k miles. The price was just way too good so I had to jump on it. It needs some love in a couple spots, it’s got a bad ABS sensor, some peeling trim, the auto trunk goes up but doesn’t hold itself there, and it has a pitted wheel. Overall for what I got it for, I think it will be totally worth it.
It's amazing how cheap you can pick those things up. I put my 18 year old in an 04 LS430.
Nice Rig! Did you end up replacing the lower arm bushing that is left in the frame? If so, how many beers of a job was it?
