Apparrently I am looking for a unicorn! A tall skinny 35 inch tire.

[cruiserfj45]

I have been on the search for 1" lug centric wheel spacers for running 93 80 series wheels on my FJ60. All I have found is hub centric ones that are made in the USA by BORA. I will not buy those chinagear ones.

BORA Wheel Spacers .75" to 2" (Toyota 6 on 5.5)

 

[jjdeneen918]

BORA website says the 1” May require you to cut your studs shorter to fit flush.

I do not want to have to cut every stud. I’m leaning towards 1.25” spacers if they will work.

All this hub & lug centric is confusing!
Which ones do I need?

 

[Tools R Us]

BORA website says the 1” May require you to cut your studs shorter to fit flush.

I do not want to have to cut every stud. I’m leaning towards 1.25” spacers if they will work.

All this hub & lug centric is confusing!
Which ones do I need?

That will depend on the wheels. Most Toyota wheels have a pocket/depression in the mounting face that allows the studs, no need to trim. Aftermarket, not so much.

 

[Nay]

The Sequoia wheels are -10mm offset, so just under a 1/2” difference than stock 80 wheels (0.39”). That would be inbound on the axle correct?

The Sequoia wheels are also a 1/2” narrower than 80 wheels at 7.5”, as opposed to 80 wheels at 8”.

I’m running an 11.5” wide tire, one-inch narrower than the “typical” 12.5” tire that is commonly available for 35” tires.

I want to get these wheels & tire combo back to stock width/track. Keep the steering geometry correct & avoid rubbing frame/springs or hitting fender & flares.

Tools r Us: I believe your running 37x12.5r17 tires, would your wider tire than mine change how I set up my one-inch narrower tire?

Nay: you mentioned Sequoia wheels are 0.75” less backspace than stock. I read -10mm offset, (0.39”) less. Am I reading something, or calculating, incorrectly?

A 7.5” rim at -10mm offset would be ~3.75” backspace so .75” outboard of the stock rims. I don’t believe this is correct, because if it is you don’t need spacers at all.

My understanding is that rim has positive offset, probably 25mm, which is 5.25” backspace and .75” inboard of the stock rims, which are 4.5” backspace. A 1” spacer is then a net 4.25” backspace, 1.25” is 4” and so on.

But you need to confirm the offset of the Sequoia rims to know for sure, or just the backspace as that’s what you need in choosing a spacer.

Here’s an offset conversion chart. Factory rims are 8” with 0 offset.

Wheel Specs | Wheel Specialists, Inc.

My rims are 8.5” with -6 offset, so backspace is stock and the extra 1/2” width is all to the outside.

Edit: google seems to think the Sequoia wheels are ~5” backspace. That would suggest choosing the narrowest spacer, which is 1”, meaning you’ll end up .5” outboard if the stock rims, but with the narrower rim it should look exactly as you want.

Most spacers aren’t made in 1” because the studs stick out past the spacer, but as @Tools R Us pointed out, as long as the Sequoia rims have pockets like the stock ones do 1” will be fine.

 

[Nay]

BORA website says the 1” May require you to cut your studs shorter to fit flush.

I do not want to have to cut every stud. I’m leaning towards 1.25” spacers if they will work.

All this hub & lug centric is confusing!
Which ones do I need?

You can’t do hub centric on the 80 so you need just the lug centric spacer that is flat on both sides.

This is the pocket we are taking about on the stock rim - the extra stud length fits here where if the rim surface was flat it would not.

You just have to check your rims.

I’ve been running these for over a decade. There’s no magic here - the way spacers are designed they are generally stronger than the wheel.

 

[Nay]

I have been on the search for 1" lug centric wheel spacers for running 93 80 series wheels on my FJ60. All I have found is hub centric ones that are made in the USA by BORA. I will not buy those chinagear ones.

BORA Wheel Spacers .75" to 2" (Toyota 6 on 5.5)

That’s awesome that the Bora has 3/4”. That’s exactly what I need to pull my wheels in just slightly.

My rims don’t have any material between the lugs (MB TKO that fit snug over the 80’s hub) so extra lug is meaningless to me. The typical wheel pockets might not be enough for .75” spacers, but it’s possible.

 

[cruiserfj45]

91-94 Cruiser are lug centric, all alloy wheels after are hub centric.

 

[Nay]

91-94 Cruiser are lug centric, all alloy wheels after are hub centric.

That’s why having to use lug centric spacers with Toyota alloy wheels isn’t ideal - you have shank style lug nuts designed for a hub centric mount on a lug centric spacer. I never had any issues, but arguably centering the wheel isn’t perfect without the cone style lug nuts since shank style lugs nuts are made for hub centric mounts.

I really like the split spoke style Sequoia rims, which is why I went with a similar aftermarket design.

 

[Nay]

I just ordered the .75” Bora spacers from Wheelers. That 1/4” is exactly what I need.

I’ll have a set of 4 Nitro 1” that have about 10k miles on that I will be selling if somebody wants to save some $$$, assuming I don’t have any issues with the .75”. $120 shipped to lower 48.

The Bora are backordered so it will be 7-10 days before I get them.

 

[cruiserfj45]

Are they lug centric? If so I will take them.

I just ordered the .75” Bora spacers from Wheelers. That 1/4” is exactly what I need.

I’ll have a set of 4 Nitro 1” that have about 10k miles on that I will be selling if somebody wants to save some $$$, assuming I don’t have any issues with the .75”. $120 shipped to lower 48.

The Bora are backordered so it will be 7-10 days before I get them.

 

[Nay]

Are they lug centric? If so I will take them.

Yes, they are. I’ll drop you a PM so we can coordinate once my new ones arrive.

 

[Tools R Us]

That’s why having to use lug centric spacers with Toyota alloy wheels isn’t ideal - you have shank style lug nuts designed for a hub centric mount on a lug centric spacer. I never had any issues, but arguably centering the wheel isn’t perfect without the cone style lug nuts since shank style lugs nuts are made for hub centric mounts.
...

It takes an extra step, but is dead simple to solve. Use 3 cone type nuts, install them on every other stud, snug them up. This lug centric centers the wheel. install shank type on the other 3 and torque to 76ft/lb, now remove the cones, replace with shank type and torque. "Problem" solved.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Nitto Trail Grappler MT tire (35x11.5r17) on Toyota Sequoia wheels.

I test fit on the front driver side. It definitely needs spacers. Gotta wait on those.

The 17’s don’t look huge, but they do make the 16’s look tiny.

 

[jjdeneen918]

For reference on the above photos:

Rear tire is a Dick Cepek 315/75r16 on OEM 16” wheels.

Tires still had pretty decent amount of tread, just old (about 10 years) and weathered & cracking.

 

[ewillis]

BTW. How do I explain my new Mud addiction to my wife? She keeps asking what the hell I am looking at.

Just be sure to tilt the screen down when Jen posts pics to stay on your other half's good side...

 

[bwesty]

Nitto Trail Grappler MT tire (35x11.5r17) on Toyota Sequoia wheels.

I test fit on the front driver side. It definitely needs spacers. Gotta wait on those.

The 17’s don’t look huge, but they do make the 16’s look tiny. View attachment 1736038View attachment 1736040

That looks sharp. That tire size seems more appropriate vs the 12.5 width. Good combo.

 

[jjdeneen918]

So wheel spacers come with red locktite.
Nowhere does it say how much to apply to the hub lugnuts.
Do I apply a dot, a line down the entire stud-lengthwise, one swipe around the diameter of the threads, if so, at the end of the threads, at the base of the threads...

I’m probably over thinking it, but I’m not sure.

 

[Nay]

I have never found and don't see how a hub centric spacer could be designed to fit on a full float cruiser. All of them we run are lug centric.

Ok. I may need to correct again. I had ordered the .75” BORA spacers, which were out of stock, and in looking for another source I have realized that these all have the hub centric mounting lip.

But...they are 106mm bore including the mounting blip. So does that go over the 80 hub to work with a Toyota hub centric rim?

 

[Tools R Us]

Ok. I may need to correct again. I had ordered the .75” BORA spacers, which were out of stock, and in looking for another source I have realized that these all have the hub centric mounting lip.

But...they are 106mm bore including the mounting blip. So does that go over the 80 hub to work with a Toyota hub centric rim?

Don't see how they could have the same size inside and outside and have a lip? If you're talking about these, BORA Wheel Spacers .75" to 2" (Toyota 6 on 5.5) says: Note: Will not fit vehicles with manual locking hubs. So.... We have used that type of spacer by putting them in the lathe and removing the hub centric lip, easier to just buy without?

 

[jjdeneen918]

All I could find online was to use a “dab” of locktite on the threads. I wasn’t sure what the scientific equivalent of a dab was....

I ended up using one supplied applicator of red locktite (supplied with 2 spacers) for all four.

I ran a decent sized dab across half the threads at the point closest the the inner face of the nut.