Any tips for locating a bad ground in the rear dome circuit? (1 Viewer)

[ThreeEyedBandit]

It's still possible for the lights in the doors to not work because of this, they are on separate taps of that junction. But that alone wouldn't affect the overhead light.

I believe there's also something going on with the ground/switch side due to the "no 'ajar' light" condition.

True, but not a problem with the half working overhead light. And the ground is the only thing in common with all the partially/completely lights not working.

 

[landcrshr]

Agreed, although the only ground in the circuit is the body itself. The circuit gets grounded via the door switches in different places, so it would take more than one fault to create the symptoms described.

 

[AUGuy]

@landcrshr Ok, tested the lower panel lights with doors open, dome in "Door" mode. Odd results:

Rear RH Door Panel Light:
Blue/Yellow: 12.52V
Red/Blue: 0.00V, No continuity to body ground

Rear LH Door Panel Light:
Blue/Yellow: 10.56V (not a typo, this side was lower than RH)
Red/Blue: 0.72V (not a typo, again), No continuity to body ground

 

[landcrshr]

Rear RH Door Panel Light:
Blue/Yellow: 12.52V
Red/Blue: 0.00V, No continuity to body ground

This sounds like both a bad bulb and a bad switch circuit.

Rear LH Door Panel Light:
Blue/Yellow: 10.56V (not a typo, this side was lower than RH)
Red/Blue: 0.72V (not a typo, again), No continuity to body ground

This sounds like a poor +12V supply connection, a good bulb, but also that there is at least some continuity to ground (the 0.72V).

Are you 100% sure of your continuity tests?

 

[landcrshr]

I will suggest taking a good look at your "ID2" connector.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

Are you 100% sure of your continuity tests?

I second, how are you checking continuity?

This sounds like a poor +12V supply connection, a good bulb, but also that there is at least some continuity to ground (the 0.72V).

Sounds like a poor 12V connection, but also a very poor ground. Getting voltage through the other bulb via the ground wire, but it isn't being sinked to the ground. I've had problems with ID2 before, and also might be worth checking BP2.

 

[AUGuy]

I second, how are you checking continuity?



Sounds like a poor 12V connection, but also a very poor ground. Getting voltage through the other bulb via the ground wire, but it isn't being sinked to the ground. I've had problems with ID2 before, and also might be worth checking BP2.

20k setting on ohm meter from pigtail lead to body ground. No bueno?

 

[flintknapper]

Same problem, only my front dome light. Have yet to find the cause.

 

[enox]

I have all doors and lights working flawlessly except for 1!! the drivers door does not trigger overhead light, door light, door ajar warning light and ignition key illumination. i have new door switches which fixed another pesky door. passenger side front door illuminates overhead light door ajar icon and the lamp inside the door panel. before replacing the switch i checked to see if the threads in the door were causing the bad ground (they were not) also checked for voltage at the wire for keyring illumination, which led to no voltage whatsoever. if anyone has any direction about where else to check plzzz let me know!

thanks!

 

[mazder]

Check the rear loom from the hatch. I had a bad connection as one of the conectors failed

 

[enox]

Would the rear loom have anything to do with my drivers side front door though?

 

[Teeter]

Did this ever get resolved? I'm having a very similar issue on my 100 series (no power to 2nd row courtesy lights, but the door switches trigger dome light).