Another Trollhole Dizzy Hookup ???? (1 Viewer)

[2ndfj40]

OK, I have read through most of these troll threads

but wanted to double check. 1980 FJ40. Two wires from the trollhole dizzy one red, one black short one. I presume the black is ground????

In the pic you see my coil setup and the red wire from the trollhole distributor. So where does it go?

The green connector is what used to go to the distributor and has one red wire. Do I hook into this or directly to the coil, or???

Thanks.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Do you have a ballast resistor?

 

[VTX78FJ40]

The red wire from mine goes to one side of my ballast resistor, on mine it's left. The other wire that goes on the same side of that resistor is a wire I spiced in from the green plug. It's the thick black with yellow stripe.

A short wire goes from the other side of the resistor to the + side of the coil.

The black wire of the TH dizzy goes to negative side of the coil.

The other wire from the green plug you tape off because you don't need.

This plug:

 

[VTX78FJ40]

The plug you have in your hand: You use the yellow wire and tape off the red.

I know I'm not doing the best job of explaining this but does it make sense?

 

[2ndfj40]

OK, I do not have a ballast resistor.
As I understand then, the black wire from the TH distributor goes to the negative side of the coil.
The red wire from the TH distributor goes to the yellow wire from the original connector (I have in my hand)
The red wire from the original connector gets taped off (goes nowhere).
Is that right, if understand you correctly?

Thanks for your help!!!

 

[VTX78FJ40]

The ballast resistor reduces, as I understand, the volts going to the coil. I was told that it was a necessity. I got mine from the local parts store.

Mine had an igniter on top of the coil that I took off. The new dizzy did not use the igniter.

 

[2ndfj40]

Hmmm...so I need a resistor? How do you know which one to get (how many ohms?)

 

[VTX78FJ40]

I just told them what I was working on and what I needed. They looked it up and said this should work. And it did.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Marshall walked me thru the install on the phone and it went fine. Folks had told me before hand that I needed the resistor so I bought it before hand and had it when the dizzy came in.

What year are you working on?

 

[2ndfj40]

Its a 1980.

 

[VTX78FJ40]

Mine is a 78. I don't figure it would be that much different. Pin_head said in another thread the ballast resistor is need to prevent the coil from burning up.

It really is a simple hookup once you have the resistor. There was a hole on the inside of the fender where it bolted up perfectly.

 

[Curt]

My 78 has a ballast resistor spliced into the wiring harness. It can be found between the ignition switch and passenger side firewall. This causes a problem because it is hard to remove. Your trollhole dizzy wants to see 12+ volts, to get this you need to splice into the ignition wire before the resistor. The red wire will connect to this 12+ volts and the black will connect to negative side of coil. There will be 2 BY wires by the coil. The larger gauge wire is a constant voltage and the smaller wire it the bypass wire. This wire will up the voltage during cranking for cold starts. Might find some info to help you here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/replaced-starter-now-there-is-no-spark.816743/

 

[GA Architect]

What is your coil's part number? If you don't have a ballast resistor, then it may be as simple as connecting the Dizzy's red wire to the (+) coil post and the black to the (-) coil post. Then unhook all the igniter wires.

Here is a diagram I'm going to post on my Trollhole Dizzy & Gear Reduction Starter thread.

 

[Shark56]

I don't think I would mess up that ignitor. I would save it for later use and just buy a coil and resistor. Those ignitors can be pricy!

 

[Shark56]

For example from Spector page

024-30E-U
Used Igniter -
Fits 9/77-7/80 FJ40
(Not available at this time-Please call for availability)
333.23

 

[2ndfj40]

What is your coil's part number? If you don't have a ballast resistor, then it may be as simple as connecting the Dizzy's red wire to the (+) coil post and the black to the (-) coil post. Then unhook all the igniter wires.

Here is a diagram I'm going to post on my Trollhole Dizzy & Gear Reduction Starter thread.
View attachment 1018880

OK, so if I have that coil number shown (90919-02015) I will try this - not sure what is unique about this coil?

 

[HoundDog]

When I installed my Trollhole distributor I removed my old coil + ballast resistor combo and replaced it with a CCOT internally ballasted coil.

Connected the red wire to positive and the black to negative. Really cleans up the install and reduces the rats nest of wires. Works perfect.

 

[GA Architect]

OK, so if I have that coil number shown (90919-02015) I will try this - not sure what is unique about this coil?

That coil is a internally resisted coil, so to speak. I'm not sure that is the right terminology for that specific coil, but it doesn't need the ballast resistor, so I've been told......I believe it is the same coil "HoundDog" is using.

 

[2ndfj40]

OK, sorry for the long delay......I finally got back to my FJ. So....I hooked things up as I seemed to interpret from the info given and my starter won't stop spinning even when I turn the key off - have to pull the battery terminal. Yikes....

Basically the wires that went from the ignitor to the distributor from the OEM hookup are not going anywhere (unplugged). I hooked the new TH dist wires directly to the coil (long red to +, short black (I extended with green wire to -). In the original setup the circlular post end yellow wire went to the + terminal and the other pair went to the -. If I hook these up the starter still just spins without stopping when I turn the key to start.

So here is pic of what I have done. What now? Does someone have Marshall's email or phone?

Thanks.

 

[Trollhole]

You want to confirm first that you in fact have 12v at the black wire with a yellow stripe coming out of your harness. It's the only wire you will need from your harness.

Assuming it has 12v it would connect to the positive terminal on an internally ballast resisted coil. The red wire from dizzy goes to the same post. Black wire goes to the negative side.

If you do not have an internally ballast resisted coil which most cruiser from 78 and earlier had then you want to add a ballast resistor. Reason being when vehicles had points they didn't do well with a full 12v so a ballast resister was added to give them more life. Coils were designed for this stepped down current. Without having a ballast resistor on a coil that's designed for one will mean you will eventually boil the oil in it and short it out. Fine for the drag strip bad for a tractor motor.