American Heart Transplant: FJ60 + Vortec

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Hey guys need help troubleshooting my electrical issues.

Symptoms: My brake, tail, dash lights do not work. Also heater blower, etc does not work.

I'm thinking it may be related to how my fusible link is hooked up. All the stuff not working comes from the white wire of the fusible link that runs (in the stock configuration) to battery, to alternator, and to vehicle.

In my configuration, it does not run to alternator. just from 12v+ through the fusible link to vehicle. Im starting to think this is my issue.

Does anyone have a picture or description of how their fusible link is hooked up???

PLEASE help me on this one....

Oh BTW I've checked fuses and swapped them. And symptoms are occurring upstream of relay (blower not working). If you've looked at the wiring diagram you know what I'm talking about.

EXPERTS PLEASE CHIME IN ON THIS ONE.
 
when I hosed my fuseable link I had similar issues...no incab pwr to anything.... I don't recall connecting the fuseable link in any unique configuration. I'll look to see but I'm almost positive that it simply connects to the battery.l
 
I just went out and checked... only getting 4.4V at the terminal for the large white wire AFTER the fusible link. I get 12V at the same terminal BEFORE fusible link. I think it may be toasted. What do ya'll think.

Where can i pick a fusible link up preferably local?
 
Elbert said:
when I hosed my fuseable link I had similar issues...no incab pwr to anything.... I don't recall connecting the fuseable link in any unique configuration. I'll look to see but I'm almost positive that it simply connects to the battery.l
Click to expand...

In the stock toyo setup, it splits to the alternator (after the fusible link). With the V8 is yours just hooked to battery? or does it run to alternator as well?

If you could look that would be stellar. :beer:
 
yes single wire running from fusable link to pos battery terminal...looks to be black in color..

Now I don't know if its been modified since we installed the v-8 because I had a shop setup the wiring for a normal GM CS140 Alternator (they may have modifed the wiring) and also they installed a dual battery solonoid.

I'm still running a single wire alternator but I wanted the wiring setup so I could change back to a normal configuration stock type GM alternator that I can buy just about anywhere...I need to get around to testing that to make sure it works.
 
It was the fusible link... just went out and bypassed it with a jumper wire, and everything kicked on and worked like it should!!!

Where to find a fusible link is the question..?
 
only at the toyota dealer... I generally use American Toyota
 
fusible link...

i was wondering about using something like this:

IMG_2147.webp


readily purchased at your local auto parts store...80 amp capacity.

i am going to post this in my alternator thread as well.

sorry, kind of a bad picture, but you get the idea.
IMG_2147.webp
 
Last edited:
Ouch. It's $41.01 with the MUD discount. I could do free shipping tho...

Part # is 90982-08135 btw.
 
Lowe Toyota said:
Ouch. It's $41.01 with the MUD discount. I could do free shipping tho...

Part # is 90982-08135 btw.
Click to expand...

Day late dollar short...:doh:

I ordered two today one from local stealership for $52 and one from that dude Onur at American Toyota $41 + ship.

I want to keep a spare....
 
On the subject of electrical, lets discuss grounds...

Right now I have the following (major/external) grounds:

-battery to block
-battery to chassis
-block to chassis
-t-case to chassis

Should I add a block to frame ground strap???

What ya'll think??
 
yes, my harness has two one going from block to body and another at the front driver side block to frame.
The harness itself also has two (I think) that do the same one to body and another to frame.
 
I have a ground from rear of passenger cylinder head to firewall (like the stock I-6), also have stock negative battery cable that grounds to passenger side fender, on my 2nd battery I have a ground to the frame, I probally should include or add a ground from the engine to the frame. I think I also have a ground on the engine harness but I've forgotten the location.
 
So it won't hurt to ground block to frame? It appears all other grounds are intact and accounted for..
 
You can never have enough grounds. Just look at the oem harness in a 60. There have to be 50 or more grounds. Every panel, the block, the head, the t-case,......

Have at it!
 
Update:

Been driving it for a couple days. Fusible link did the trick on the electrical issues.

Engine and trans are TITS!! Makes the truck very fun. I pegged the speedo at 85 the other day...very easily i might add.

BUT... I think i grenaded my split case. It was making a high pitch rattle/whining sound, and today it sounded like something broke witha loud BANG. It still drove home, but I think I lost a bearing or something.

Im really pissed, I should have rebuilt the damn thing while it was apart. A lesson to all who do these swaps. The 25+ year old parts were probably ok for the 2f, not so much with 300HP pushing them beyond 85 MPH.

So I gotta pull the t-case and go through it AAAARRRGGGGHH!!!
 
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