American Heart Transplant: FJ60 + Vortec

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At least it happened during testing before you got out somewhere remote.

It must have been a good bit warn to start. I'm interested to see what failed though. I checked everything out when I did my swap 15k ago and everything was tight but I have noticed it whining a little more lately. I'm just curious if the whine was related. Mine is more pronounced when decelerating. I figure a gear on gear tcase is going to make some noise but since I don't drive it but once or twice a month I never notice if its getting louder.

They seem to hold up to high speeds just fine and some pretty good abuse. At least half my miles are at 75-85mph, some of that pulling 3-5k at that speed. I've also hammered it pretty good off road a few times as well.

I just wish I would have forgone the adapter and went with a chevy t case for my needs in the beginning but I was 22 and didn't know any better. If I graduate one of these semesters, stop giving ASU 8k a year and either my wife or I start daily driving the 60 again It will get an atlas 2 or 4 speed with a 14 bolt. It sits parked more than anything in the garage now since I need to daily drive a 2500hd for work and my wife has a 25 mile commute.
 
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Ask me, the split case is a better choice. I've worked on both, plenty of NP and NV transfer cases and their Toyota counterparts.

The first thing you need to figure it is where the noise is coming from. Are you sure it's the tcase? Could it be the rear diff? Have you checked to see if the pinion stake nut has come loose?!:confused:

If it were me, I'd jack up the truck and run it, then use a stethoscope to see where the noise is coming from.

Don't live with a "whine"!!! Figure out where it's coming from. :hhmm:
Then do something about it. :wrench:

Before it's too late!:deadhorse:
 
orangefj45 said:
Ask me, the split case is a better choice. I've worked on both, plenty of NP and NV transfer cases and their Toyota counterparts.

The first thing you need to figure it is where the noise is coming from. Are you sure it's the tcase? Could it be the rear diff? Have you checked to see if the pinion stake nut has come loose?!:confused:

If it were me, I'd jack up the truck and run it, then use a stethoscope to see where the noise is coming from.

Don't live with a "whine"!!! Figure out where it's coming from. :hhmm:
Then do something about it. :wrench:

Before it's too late!:deadhorse:
Click to expand...

I removed the shift boot for 4wd and pretty much narrowed it down to the split case. The diff is solid and everything is tight there. Drive shafts are tight. The split case has started to leak a little as of late as well I noticed. Nothing but a small single drop after a drive but I hate leaks. I might have to pull it and do a rebuild when some 60 motivation returns. The leak seems to be coming from the rear flange. I'm wondering if that bearing is starting to wear and take the seal out with it. Either way if I figure out whats bad, maybe during spring break I'll get with you for some parts.
 
brokenparts said:
bummer man. Add a crawl box while its out. :)
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HA!!.. my wife would literally kill me :princess:

Kurtis said:
At least it happened during testing before you got out somewhere remote.

It must have been a good bit warn to start. I'm interested to see what failed though.
Click to expand...

My hypothesis

I think I may have buggered the oil slinger on the idler gear during reassembly. I'm thinking that may be where my rattle/whining was coming from. Then I wager a piece of that broke off and got caught up in a bearing kaboom....

Hoping its not that bad. It still drove home.. gotta love Toyota!

This sound feasible???
 
Update:

Tore into t-case... Sure enough, it was the oil slinger on the back of the idler gear!!!! Just as I guessed. I knew I buggered the d a m n thing when I installed it. I'm just an idiot for not spinning the assembly to check for binding.

Sucks.....BUT nothing else appears to be damaged... gears look good, bearings/races all look good (upon initial inspection)

There was a ton of metal in the bottom of the case. But everything seems to be intact.

I'll post pictures later...

TO REBUILD OR NOT TO REBUILD... THAT IS THE QUESTION!
 
How many miles are on the case?

Take a very close look at the idler shaft, idler shaft bearings and main shaft bearing races. If you find any pitting, rebuild. I'd consider at the very least putting a new idler shaft in there.

Hth

Georg
 
orangefj45 said:
How many miles are on the case?

Take a very close look at the idler shaft, idler shaft bearings and main shaft bearing races. If you find any pitting, rebuild. I'd consider at the very least putting a new idler shaft in there.

Hth

Georg
Click to expand...

153K miles on the unit.

I inspected the main shaft race. There is no visible pitting, just some very mild discoloration (which was present when I initially split the case)

I looked at the idler shaft very briefly... no visible damage. The needle bearings are intact however i have yet to examine them.

Upon further inspection of the gears there are some very, very light scratch marks on the teeth of the input gear, but overall I think they look good.

I will investigate the condition with more detail prior to making a decision on rebuilding, but at this point I'm leaning towards a thorough cleaning and reassembly.

BTW, Is the oil slinger on the idler necessary?

Thanks for the heads up George.

I hope others can learn from my bonehead mistake.
 
orangefj45 said:
I'd replace the idler with 150k miles on it since that's the one part in a split case that "wears out".
The bearings usually hold up very well.

Hth

Georg
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Good to know Georg.

1) Can I re-use the needle bearings?
2) Is the oil slinger necessary? Need to know, ordering parts soon.

Thanks for the expert advice.
 
the oil slinger is there for a reason. i would'nt put a case together without it. if the idler bearings are bad, then you might as well order a complete rebuild kit. by the time you pay for the dilfer shaft, bearings, washers and all the gaskets you're just about paying for a full kit anyways.
i have the kits in stock. might have a spare slinger as well.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
 
orangefj45 said:
the oil slinger is there for a reason. i would'nt put a case together without it. if the idler bearings are bad, then you might as well order a complete rebuild kit. by the time you pay for the dilfer shaft, bearings, washers and all the gaskets you're just about paying for a full kit anyways.
i have the kits in stock. might have a spare slinger as well.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
Click to expand...

Right on, thanks.
 
Please let me use your camera sweetie... pretty please!

Scan gauge II... LOVE IT !!

Skip aftermarket gauges... this is too easy!!!

Temporary location here (open to suggestions)

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Fuel lines (teflon steel braided) and PS hose - shout out to Arizona Tubes and Hoses - TOP NOTCH SHOP

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Now the carnage :(

Basically I failed to install this little "donut" spacer on the input shaft. It serves to hold the input gear in place. If you dont install it, the input gear is free to roam... ended up eating the oil slinger and digging into the case a bit.

But oh well... cant live in the past. Always move in a positive direction. :steer:

Sharing this info so someone else doesn't make my mistake.

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Ordered parts form Dan at American Toyo (anyone notice he sounds like a robot lol)

Should be here next week and I'll button it all back up and drive the snot out of it!!!
 
I like those hoses! When I was reworking my filters last night, I thought about getting some nices lines made. I'd really like to go 3/8" line from back to front.

I'm glad you found your tcase issues. I hate it when you can't find a definitive problem...
 
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