Alternator Upgrade Help Needed (1 Viewer)

[Cgn1976]

Hey everyone, I’m trying to figure out the alternator upgrade path on my 73, since I want to add AC eventually. All of the threads on this I see are for 40’s and refer to the ammeter, which I don’t have (images below). I have the indicator light, but I’m not sure how that plays in on the wiring side, and the ammeter bypass, diode requirement if you’re using a GM, etc… Also, I’m liking the idea of a one wire, but read a lot of threads that talk about it not charging at low rpm. I know you can change the pully which helps but I’d love to hear from those of you who have done it and how they work, what you have. Can any of you running 1 wire set ups offer some insight. Those of you with GM multi wires (I know there are 3 or 4 different options that people go with), can you explain what you did? I understand the new upsized wire direct to the battery and know how to size it, so I’m good there. I just can’t quite figure out what makes the most sense.

To further complicate my decision, I have a power steering Saginaw conversion that keeps the alternator below the pump on the driver side and that bracket is obviously what creates the tension on the belt. Adding in further that if I add AC, I’ll have to add the compressor on another belt on the passenger side, I’m sure one of the two sides will require me to fashion a belt tensioner of some sort. Any insight is helpful!

I have this:

and not this:

 

[DTC72]

My build = 1969 FJ55 with 1985 2F, 5-speed and 1987 rebuilt split transfer case. Sniper EFI. FJ60 power steering and Vintage Air AC/Heat. I am using a one wire alternator with the original dash gauge so like the one on the bottom. No issues at this point but I am only about 300 miles into my shakeout test drives. Honestly, I just thought the one wire alt was easier and didn’t even consider your thoughts above.

 

[Cgn1976]

My build = 1969 FJ55 with 1985 2F, 5-speed and 1987 rebuilt split transfer case. Sniper EFI. FJ60 power steering and Vintage Air AC/Heat. I am using a one wire alternator with the original dash gauge so like the one on the bottom. No issues at this point but I am only about 300 miles into my shakeout test drives. Honestly, I just thought the one wire alt was easier and didn’t even consider your thoughts above.

Thx DTC72. I saw a Cruiser Corp add this morning that showed the top gauge cluster is from the 68-77...I think it was 77. So if you have a 68 with an ammeter, maybe that's a replacement cluster? Either way, I appreciate the post.

The 1 wire setups not charging immediately and then apparently not always shutting off the circuit telling it to send charge when you shut the engine off, which can drain the battery, has me a leaning to 12si. Went back through the FAQ on the 40/55 tech section and found a few things that make it sound pretty easy. New 2-8 gauge wire direct to the battery depending on output, a jumper to charge wire from post 2 I think, and a key switched lead from the fuse box to the other post. I can handle that. I'm still a little unclear on the indicator light on the gauge in this scenario. I'm guessing if I don't have the stock plug going to an alternator and remove the regulator, it's basically not connected. Maybe somebody can clear that up.

 

[DTC72]

No problem with mine in the battery drain at all. I have an in-line fuse with the wire to the one wire alternator. See pictures of alternator and starter and the thickness of the wires for each. Also the early pigs had the basic gauges like the bottom picture not the one with the red lights.

 

[Cgn1976]

Nice set up. I think because of the PS conversion set up I have that keeps the alternator below the Saginaw pump, I'm hoping I can mount the compressor by itself on the passenger side. Will have to figure out the bracket. I do have the stock alternator bracket that came with the new to me 2f that keeps it high passenger, but not sure if that will work. Also hoping I can fit an upgraded alt in the same space on the driver side.

Anyway... I got my bad gauge info from this:

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thx DTC72. I saw a Cruiser Corp add this morning that showed the top gauge cluster is from the 68-77...I think it was 77. So if you have a 68 with an ammeter, maybe that's a replacement cluster? Either way, I appreciate the post.

The 1 wire setups not charging immediately and then apparently not always shutting off the circuit telling it to send charge when you shut the engine off, which can drain the battery, has me a leaning to 12si. Went back through the FAQ on the 40/55 tech section and found a few things that make it sound pretty easy. New 2-8 gauge wire direct to the battery depending on output, a jumper to charge wire from post 2 I think, and a key switched lead from the fuse box to the other post. I can handle that. I'm still a little unclear on the indicator light on the gauge in this scenario. I'm guessing if I don't have the stock plug going to an alternator and remove the regulator, it's basically not connected. Maybe somebody can clear that up.

- I have a few OEM Options for your Drivers Side Lower Mounting Application with the CORRECT 2 O'clock Mounting TOP lock down TAB position


- ALL are Genuine TOYOTA / NipponDenso NOS 50A or 55A , i DO have 1 last 60A also .................

- i also carry MY In-house Design Drive Belt Adjustment BAR for the F1.5 / 2F /3F carb Drivers Side Lower Mounting Location

- PM me for Further Details

thanks
'
'
-

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Cgn1976]

Hey Matt,


Thanks for the info! I gotta do some research about wiring and upping to a 55 or 60. Not sure how that works. I'd guess a new 8 gauge direct to the battery, but what about the dash light, external regulator...can they take the extra juice? I only plan to add ac, so I'd wonder iff 55 amps would be enough?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I went up to a 55 amp, internal regulated alternator. Only wiring change I made was at the connector and at the external regulator (had to bypass it). Coolerman makes all the wiring kits needed for the swap.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hey Matt,


Thanks for the info! I gotta do some research about wiring and upping to a 55 or 60. Not sure how that works. I'd guess a new 8 gauge direct to the battery, but what about the dash light, external regulator...can they take the extra juice? I only plan to add ac, so I'd wonder iff 55 amps would be enough?

i DO have Internal regulator Units , but there very RARE and hard to come by now a days , at least OEM TOYOTA ones .........


as far as all units i offer require NO wire modifications in the TECH video above more AMPS in the realm of 50, 55 , or 60 A used the same main guage wire 10ga white and white w/ blue tracer strip that feeds the battery


a new voltage regulator is always a good recommended idea with a new alternator for all the common sense reasons you may or not be aware of , any who tells you otherwise do not listen to them


as far as a internal regulated toyota OEM UNIT u can of course if you can find one ?


let me know if i can further help

thanks

 

[Cgn1976]

i DO have Internal regulator Units , but there very RARE and hard to come by now a days , at least OEM TOYOTA ones .........


as far as all units i offer require NO wire modifications in the TECH video above more AMPS in the realm of 50, 55 , or 60 A used the same main guage wire 10ga white and white w/ blue tracer strip that feeds the battery


a new voltage regulator is always a good recommended idea with a new alternator for all the common sense reasons you may or not be aware of , any who tells you otherwise do not listen to them


as far as a internal regulated toyota OEM UNIT u can of course if you can find one ?


let me know if i can further help

thanks

Got ya. I actually put a new external regulator on last year when I replaced the original with a 40 or 45. If a 55 or 60 will cover adding ac, I might just do that. Not really planning to do anything else that's gonna need major juice. I'll reach out direct

 

[J Mack]

the TECH video above more AMPS in the realm of 50, 55 , or 60 A used the same main guage wire 10ga white and white w/ blue tracer strip that feeds the battery

Are you sure about that?

any who tells you otherwise do not listen to them.

We all have our own opinions.
I wouldn't say anybody that doesn't agree with me is wrong but I would say you should look into it and decide what's best for you..
I'll start with wire sizing, if you have a source that is capable of producing 60 amps I believe 10 gauge wire has the potential to fail catastrophically.
Bluesea has a handy little chart that says 6 gauge would be better suited for that job.
You should look into it and decide what's best for you!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

 

[J Mack]

cover adding ac

Why will adding A/C need more "juice"?

 

[Cgn1976]

Why will adding A/C need more "juice"?

I'm currently set up stock (40 or45 amp alt.), and thought I read somewhere I needed a 55 amp or bigger alt. if I wanted to add an aftermarket AC system. I wouldn't mind having a little extra capacity j.i.c.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Are you sure about that?



We all have our own opinions.
I wouldn't say anybody that doesn't agree with me is wrong but I would say you should look into it and decide what's best for you..
I'll start with wire sizing, if you have a source that is capable of producing 60 amps I believe 10 gauge wire has the potential to fail catastrophically.
Bluesea has a handy little chart that says 6 gauge would be better suited for that job.
You should look into it and decide what's best for you!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Excellent tech here

Toyota started out with I believe 12ga on early charging Systems




Then by the 2F era had bumped it up to 10ga

8/80 -later 55A 27060-61071 cold climate spec / Arctic frigid zone 60,s run 10ga

I don’t know the tech on a Fj62 and it’s 80 / 90A main ring terminal white wire and white wire / blue tracer as it’s a external fan unit / internal regulator

But this is a solid tech topic and well folks need to know

Thanks for posting the blue sea choice system chart

There a reliable technical resource for sure

OEM Genuine NipponDenso / DENSO Japam Spec. Alternator 90A amps 1988-1992 FJ62 FJ80 3FE 3F Carb - VintageTEqParts.com

NO CORE REQUIRED ! MADE IN JAPAN GENUINE OEM NipponDenso / DENSO Alternator 90A amps MADE IN JAPAN 1988-1992 FJ62 FJ80 3FE ...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[bobm]

Are you sure about that?



We all have our own opinions.
I wouldn't say anybody that doesn't agree with me is wrong but I would say you should look into it and decide what's best for you..
I'll start with wire sizing, if you have a source that is capable of producing 60 amps I believe 10 gauge wire has the potential to fail catastrophically.
Bluesea has a handy little chart that says 6 gauge would be better suited for that job.
You should look into it and decide what's best for you!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

YA BUDDY

 

[J Mack]

I read somewhere I needed a 55 amp or bigger alt.

I can’t for the life of me think of why unless you had some sort of electric compressor you planned to use or adding additional electric fans.

Please post a link to the tech you have that explains why you need more than stock alternator for what you are planning to do to your pig.

Thanks.

 

[Cgn1976]

I can’t for the life of me think of why unless you had some sort of electric compressor you planned to use or adding additional electric fans.

Please post a link to the tech you have that explains why you need more than stock alternator for what you are planning to do to your pig.

Thanks.

Oh great. Now you're giving out homework! Thx J! I'll see what I can russle up.

No electric fan in the plans, but planning on 2000 watts for 4 18" subs in the back..and then some under carriage neon lights. Heated,.massage seats from one of those Bentleys on fire on that freighter. Oh and electric disco ball. 45 amps gonna be enough?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Oh great. Now you're giving out homework! Thx J! I'll see what I can russle up.

No electric fan in the plans, but planning on 2000 watts for.4 18" subs in the back..and then some under carriage neon lights. Heated,.massage seats from one of those Bentleys on fire on that frieghter. Oh a an electric disco ball. 45.amps.gonna be enough?

i like your style and this thread i have learned a few new tech things and thats always huge in my world


so .........

if u decide to scoop up any on my Genuine NipponDenso OEM NOS units .

ill toss in this on the house , should be period correct for your 1973 FJ55LV


oh , btw

by chance you have a 3 wire black plug 60080 or a 6 wire 36010 i have them rascals too .........

​

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Why will adding A/C need more "juice"?

I'm currently set up stock (40 or45 amp alt.), and thought I read somewhere I needed a 55 amp or bigger alt. if I wanted to add an aftermarket AC system. I wouldn't mind having a little extra capacity j.i.c.

When I got my pig it still had the original (or I assume the original) 45 amp alternator but the PO had added AC. I found that I was OK running the AC during the day but if I ran it at night, with the lights on, or during the day with lights on (when it's raining) then the battery would die within about an hour or so of driving. My presumption was that the AC load from the fan was just too much but I never bothered to add up loads. I also only checked output voltage of the alternator and never tried to test amperage under various conditions. So perhaps for the wrong reason(s) I moved forward with the 60 amp replacement and haven't had any issues since.