All terrain tire comparison (1 Viewer)

[Taco2Cruiser]

Your biggest issue will be rubbing on the KDSS bar and frame under close to full lock and full lock. If you're going to be parallel parking a lot or turning tight on a regular basis, you will definitely rub quite a bit, but for most daily uses it shouldn't be an issue. I test fitted the 35x12.50x17 KO2 and it rubbed bad enough on full lock I switched to 285/75/17 Ridge Grapplers and haven't looked back. Extremely happy with the tire and the specific size, though it would be great if the tire were even taller with the same width.

In your opinion for just KDSS bar rub, do you think your 285/75r17 on RWs would need the relocation kit or could it clear?

 

[mcgaskins]

In your opinion for just KDSS bar rub, do you think your 285/75r17 on RWs would need the relocation kit or could it clear?

It's a good question, but if I did it over again I'd definitely try without using the relocation. I already had mine installed to fit the 35s, and I didn't remove it once I went down a size in tire. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try without and then add later!

 

[Brett19648]

I have the evocorses with 285/75R17's which are 10 or 15mm further offset than the RW's. I can't feel it at all but I did a visual inspection of the wheel wells after a couple hundred miles and on the right front I did see some slight "polishing" on the sway bar. I'd assume if it was 10-15mm closer with the RW's that the polishing would become a noticeable rub.

Having said that, I bought the slee kdss relocation kit but ended up not needing it. Anyone want it cheap? PM me.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I have the evocorses with 285/75R17's which are 10 or 15mm further offset than the RW's. I can't feel it at all but I did a visual inspection of the wheel wells after a couple hundred miles and on the right front I did see some slight "polishing" on the sway bar. I'd assume if it was 10-15mm closer with the RW's that the polishing would become a noticeable rub.

Having said that, I bought the slee kdss relocation kit but ended up not needing it. Anyone want it cheap? PM me.

@Brett19648, damn brother, thank you!

I tried the relocation bracket, but returned it because I didn’t like what it caused in other aspects.

Thanks again man, I’ve been stewing over this question for over half a year.

 

[linuxgod]

At +25 offset, my 285/75R17s rubbed the KDSS arm ever so slightly when at full lock and in motion. Just enough to rub off some paint, but not enough to hear or feel it. I suspect RWs would rub more.

I added SPC UCAs and post alignment the KDSS rub is the same but I rub on the sway bar on the PS side at near full left lock, enough that you can hear the rub and feel it. I suspect with some alignment changes I could get rid of this but I don’t feel like it’s worth the 2 hours (including round trip drive). Next time year need an alignment I’ll have the shop adjust the UCA from +2 to +1 degree of caster, then have then add it back in through the LCA can bolts and see if that helps. Failing that I’ll have them dial caster back since I’m at about 4 degrees on the PS (which is above spec). I actually think the KDSS relo would make this worse since it would push the sway bar forward on the PS side, and I’m rubbing on the front-right part of the bar.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

At +25 offset, my 285/75R17s rubbed the KDSS arm ever so slightly when at full lock and in motion. Just enough to rub off some paint, but not enough to hear or feel it. I suspect RWs would rub more.

I added SPC UCAs and post alignment the KDSS rub is the same but I rub on the sway bar on the PS side at near full left lock, enough that you can hear the rub and feel it. I suspect with some alignment changes I could get rid of this but I don’t feel like it’s worth the 2 hours (including round trip drive). Next time year need an alignment I’ll have the shop adjust the UCA from +2 to +1 degree of caster, then have then add it back in through the LCA can bolts and see if that helps. Failing that I’ll have them dial caster back since I’m at about 4 degrees on the PS (which is above spec). I actually think the KDSS relo would make this worse since it would push the sway bar forward on the PS side, and I’m rubbing on the front-right part of the bar.

Great insight. Where are you rubbing on the passenger side bar?

My 295/70r17s actually rub on the huge side lugs that are half way up the sidewalk. But it’s very slight, yet I hate any rubbing at all. Rubbing is for amateurs yeah know. I’ve got space to the front of my tire but it’s not much. At 33.54 tall to 33.9 tall for yours, I can make it, but calculation aren’t perfect. So that’s why this is tough.

I’m pretty happy with my alignment, I’ve got this truck driving dead strait on roads and under WOT so I decided that I’m going to prioritize that over a bigger tire, but yeah, this one will be close.

 

[TexAZ]

The easiest way to get clear of the KDSS is to go to the Tundra arms. I ran 285/75/17 toyo ATIIs for two years on Rock Warriors with no rubbing.
with 35s I get a little polished spot on the drivers side arm. I've just learned not to hold the wheel hard over to the right.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

The easiest way to get clear of the KDSS is to go to the Tundra arms. I ran 285/75/17 toyo ATIIs for two years on Rock Warriors with no rubbing.
with 35s I get a little polished spot on the drivers side arm. I've just learned not to hold the wheel hard over to the right.

I don’t want to reduce my sand capability with a different front track than my rear.

I’ve done true long travel on trucks in the past and for me the negatives out way the small positives. Plus for me, having my tires stick out past the fenders got old when I wheel in mud and wet Moab clay.

It’s not that I’m unhappy with a wider 33.5” tire, but I would prefer a thinner 34” however I do love my STT Pros, just wish they came in a 285/75r17 as they are the second most capable tire I’ve ran, only losing to a TSL bogger. Either way, I think my RWs are on their way out and Evos are on their way in, reguardless of tires ran in the future.

I’ve got a set of 34x10.50r17 KO2 in the garage, but I don’t like them on the 200. I will say that those KO2 did absolutely phenomenal during the Appalachian Toyota Roundup a month ago. It was completely a mud fest. Absolutely east coast rock crawling with slippery mud mayhem, and the KO2s did better than KM2s out in the trails.

 

[linuxgod]

Great insight. Where are you rubbing on the passenger side bar?

I can snap a photo, but if you look at the KDSS sway bar it's rubbing the inside edge of my PS tire lugs on the most forward part of the bar where the bar turns ~90 degrees towards the LCA. See red arrow below

I'm pretty sure it's because the SPC UCAs recommend setting them to +1 degree for "most lifts" and I started at +2 degrees. I think it the SPC UCAs add caster by shifting the top of the wheel backwards rather than pushing the bottom forwards (which is what I believe the cam bolts do). Less likelihood of rubbing on the KDSS arm, but more likely to rub on the sway bar

Yeah I despise rubbing, and if I hadn't been to the alignment shop twice in a month I would go back and have them fix it. Then again the truck handles great now and drives straight even when loaded down with the trailer and with my foot to the floor.

 

[TonyP]

Rumble-Rumble

 

[linuxgod]

I only have that shiny spot on the right (and I believe mine is a further towards the front - or in this photo more right-er) probably because I'm on +25 offset wheels.

Definitely rubs more when I'm making a hard left U-turn and there's a bit of body roll.

 

[TonyP]

I also have the kdss relocation (hence the linkage angrily tweaked) so that makes sense that yours is farther forward.

I've considered going down to a 33-34ish AT for my next tire and ditching the relocation, unless another solution comes up for large tires.

I also rub in the rear a bit but that's a whole different story. That can be fixed with a hammer-massage.

 

[Markuson]

I also have the kdss relocation (hence the linkage angrily tweaked) so that makes sense that yours is farther forward.

I've considered going down to a 33-34ish AT for my next tire and ditching the relocation, unless another solution comes up for large tires.

I also rub in the rear a bit but that's a whole different story. That can be fixed with a hammer-massage.

Hammer helped in back for me with one little corner that sticks out...but noticed its a two-sided piece of metal, so
gotta be careful not to whack too much, or I'm afraid it may split... Not sure why they left it so prominent and pointed there...

I also have KDSS rely. Some rub on full lock in front, but I don't really worry about it as it isn't hitting anything sharp and it's pretty gentle.

 

[Brett19648]

Mines same spot as @linuxgod. Didn't notice anything on the driver side.

 

[kreiten]

I can snap a photo, but if you look at the KDSS sway bar it's rubbing the inside edge of my PS tire lugs on the most forward part of the bar where the bar turns ~90 degrees towards the LCA. See red arrow below

View attachment 1556984

I'm pretty sure it's because the SPC UCAs recommend setting them to +1 degree for "most lifts" and I started at +2 degrees. I think it the SPC UCAs add caster by shifting the top of the wheel backwards rather than pushing the bottom forwards (which is what I believe the cam bolts do). Less likelihood of rubbing on the KDSS arm, but more likely to rub on the sway bar

Yeah I despise rubbing, and if I hadn't been to the alignment shop twice in a month I would go back and have them fix it. Then again the truck handles great now and drives straight even when loaded down with the trailer and with my foot to the floor.

Do we think we will ever see the day were someone makes a replacement KDSS bar?

 

[TonyP]

Hammer helped in back for me with one little corner that sticks out...but noticed its a two-sided piece of metal, so
gotta be careful not to whack too much, or I'm afraid it may split... Not sure why they left it so prominent and pointed there...

I also have KDSS rely. Some rub on full lock in front, but I don't really worry about it as it isn't hitting anything sharp and it's pretty gentle.

Yup I know exactly what spot you're talking about. I gave it a few wacks. I haven't put the suspension through its paces since Moab though.

As for the front; it only rubs on hard full lock, plus it's a smooth part its rubbing on so I'm not worried. But it's certainly not ideal.

 

[linuxgod]

Do we think we will ever see the day were someone makes a replacement KDSS bar?

I was thinking that as well. Maybe when the 300s come out and more people around the world mod their 200s someone will create one. I’m sure there’s a market, just not sure if it’s worth the investment to the seller

 

[FatHero]

So the local 4wheel parts shop helped me out and test fitted a BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 35/12.50R17 on one of my wheels. And yeah it ain't gonna work without something changing. I had hoped I would be able to have them mounted up and daily drive until I figured out which way I wanted to go with the mods to accommodate the tires, but rubbing is too much for me.

I have a KDSS relo on the way, but I'm starting to rethink about the need for regearing, some of the folks not being happy about using the KDSS relocation, etc. So I'm stuck at this point. However, in the interests of helping provide some information, here's some shots of the BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 34 /10.50R17 versus the 35/12.50R17

Wheels are at full lock. Reminder this is with an OME medium duty lift.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

[TonyP]

So the local 4wheel parts shop helped me out and test fitted a BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 35/12.50R17 on one of my wheels. And yeah it ain't gonna work without something changing. I had hoped I would be able to have them mounted up and daily drive until I figured out which way I wanted to go with the mods to accommodate the tires, but rubbing is too much for me.

I have a KDSS relo on the way, but I'm starting to rethink about the need for regearing, some of the folks not being happy about using the KDSS relocation, etc. So I'm stuck at this point. However, in the interests of helping provide some information, here's some shots of the BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 34 /10.50R17 versus the 35/12.50R17

Wheels are at full lock.

Thanks to everyone for their input.
View attachment 1557666

Yup. I don't regret my 35s but I'm probably dropping down a size next set for the reasons you listed.

 

[Brett19648]

Yeah seems like 35's require quite a bit more work. 34's are easy... I'd have loved to go 35's but I couldn't justify the extra effort.