Builds AK HJ-75

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I am so, so envious of your tach. Would you mind pm'ing me your VIN so I can research to try to add to my 75 diesel and 75 petrols. Friends say I should not need a tach, but I really, really want them on everything. Fantastic work on that exhaust manifold. In fact your engine bay is quite inspiring.

I only have a year or two more in Dubai and I am concentrating on getting the trucks in reasonable enough shape to drive and ship back to the US. Retirement is staring me in the face and I can see myself spending the next several years raising my 70'series to what I see on your truck.

Can you also talk a little about the Bosh alternator? Quite curious about that.
 
The Bosch alternator I got out of Australia. Don’t remember who from. Had to change the plug in I believe. It seems to charge at above 14V which seems a little high, seems to make normal batteries gas out making corrosion on the terminals and hold downs🤷‍♂️ had to change from external regulator to internal regulator.
Frame number 00001853
Your rigs are 12V right?
Thanks for your compliment. I am envious of your location where to rebuild your trucks.
 
The Bosch alternator I got out of Australia. Don’t remember who from. Had to change the plug in I believe. It seems to charge at above 14V which seems a little high, seems to make normal batteries gas out making corrosion on the terminals and hold downs🤷‍♂️ had to change from external regulator to internal regulator.
Frame number 00001853
Your rigs are 12V right?
Thanks for your compliment. I am envious of your location where to rebuild your trucks.
So I take it the Bosch alternator was not actually an upgrade? Just something you used?
 
The Bosch alternator I got out of Australia. Don’t remember who from. Had to change the plug in I believe. It seems to charge at above 14V which seems a little high, seems to make normal batteries gas out making corrosion on the terminals and hold downs🤷‍♂️ had to change from external regulator to internal regulator.
Frame number 00001853
Your rigs are 12V right?
Thanks for your compliment. I am envious of your location where to rebuild your trucks.
You should charge at 14.4V approx. For a 12v system.
 
Next project

DE4A6652-6E3B-43BB-B7AF-B0FDA2F2D274.jpeg
 
So clean! I have to say that I like you idea of replacing the OEM bumpers. They are not really very robust. Perhaps you can publish plans for your design?
 
@John Young …. “They are not really very robust”.
—————————————————————————————
The bumper (step) is just as robust as the 5 recycled beer cans it was made from. 😂
 
So clean! I have to say that I like you idea of replacing the OEM bumpers. They are not really very robust. Perhaps you can publish plans for your design?
No plans. Just started with a 4”x6”x72” 1/4” wall tube. Could have gone with a thinner wall if I wasn’t using a hitch and tire carrier.
I guess I could have cardboard designed and then have a shop cut and bend to have the mounts for the bumper kind of like the factory type, that bolts to the outside of the frame and goes around the rear tub mount. Oh well, next time😉🤣
 
I used 1.5" tube on my 40 bumper I made several years ago... but similar setup with spindle through tube and the lights in the tube
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A couple thoughts... if you have not already thought of it... I started using stainless on all the contact points, or where pins drop in to a hole. Saves lots of rust...

on your lights, do you have enough room in the tube with the spindle going through that same area??

It looks like 3/16 square tube. I found too much flex in 3/16, so started using 1/4.

how are you going to limit the open position? i like the struts that 4x4 labs use, but also appreciate the drop pins that ARB uses -- until they shear off. Not sure if you have much clearance for a shock if you mount to the top of your bumper with the tailgate in lower position.
 
I have a drop pin thing but totally forgot about it, so don’t know if I can still make it work. Was also thinking about a gas strut.
So you think I should go with 1/4 for the swing out? Good to know. I guess I’ll have to re do that part again. Do you think I will need 1/4 also for the upright part that the tire will be mounted to?
I want to recess the tail lights unfortunately I don’t think I will have enough room for the factory tail lights. I have a generic set coming from Amazon that are a slimmer design but about the same size, I think about an inch narrower. I think the factory ones are about a 4”x12” and the ones coming are 3,5”x11”.
Thanks for the input.
 
I have a drop pin thing but totally forgot about it, so don’t know if I can still make it work. Was also thinking about a gas strut.
So you think I should go with 1/4 for the swing out? Good to know. I guess I’ll have to re do that part again. Do you think I will need 1/4 also for the upright part that the tire will be mounted to?
I want to recess the tail lights unfortunately I don’t think I will have enough room for the factory tail lights. I have a generic set coming from Amazon that are a slimmer design but about the same size, I think about an inch narrower. I think the factory ones are about a 4”x12” and the ones coming are 3,5”x11”.
Thanks for the input.

On FOO, I took the factory lens, and then used led strip lights behind them, to make a slimmer profile, as I really wanted a 40 series rear look. here is link....


You can see on this post the end result.... basically took led strip lights which are waterproof and hot glued them to a backer and wired it all up. Crude, but gave me the look I wanted....



On the swing arm, it seems that the lower arm is the key, as the upright part is trying to twist it back and forth front and back. So just the lower part needs that thickness to keep it from twisting.

I have the same tailgate issue on my 40, so I think that I mounted the strut on the face of the bumper. I will take a pic of my swingarm when i get out to the barn again.


check out this pin track..

 
Here is pic where you see the "trim" protector I put around the lights.
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