Advice on clutch line
- Thread starter Clang106
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- #3
I've tried that too still no luck
other option is to replace the hardline, cut it off close to the nut, hammer on a 6 point socket that is tight and it should come out
you need to replace it as trying to reuse that nut is a bad idea
why are you trying to get it off? replacing the master? just cut it and throw it away and replace master and line
in the future always use flare nut wrenches or the flare nut crows foot that was posted above
you need to replace it as trying to reuse that nut is a bad idea
why are you trying to get it off? replacing the master? just cut it and throw it away and replace master and line
in the future always use flare nut wrenches or the flare nut crows foot that was posted above
Knipex Cobra pliers and some heat, if you destroy the nut you can get a new one and rent a flare tool to fix the end
To add to what others have said, personally I like ‘Flare Nut Wrenches’ for these really hard ones. Same principle as what you have used…but with the wrenches you can easily put on a proper sized pipe to uses as a cheater bar for some really good leverage.
Clean up the nut area with a HD wire brush, blow the debris away…do it again. This will better allow the Kroil to get where it needs to get. Get the flare wrench with your cheater bar. Tighten…loosen…etc etc. Might take several days, but should get your problem solved.
Clean up the nut area with a HD wire brush, blow the debris away…do it again. This will better allow the Kroil to get where it needs to get. Get the flare wrench with your cheater bar. Tighten…loosen…etc etc. Might take several days, but should get your problem solved.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
No its the other ones
Might seem insignificant, but there's a huge difference in a quality set of vice grips vs cheapie imitations that's never more evident than in a situation like this. Make sure you have the real deal. I agree some penetrant is needed here, and get the vice grips on as tight as possible then start working it back and forth a little at a time. I think you'll get it. Best of luck.
at this point, looking at the pic, it is time to go nuclear, cut the line right above the nut, drive/hammer on a 6 point socket or use one of the stripped nut socket removers and get it out.
the nut needs to be replaced, don't re-use it
also goes back to my question as to why you are removing it. is the master bad? or a bad line?
answer to either question will give better direction.
replacing master, cut line and throw away
replacing line, cut remove nut and get new nut and flare tube or remove and replace
the nut needs to be replaced, don't re-use it
also goes back to my question as to why you are removing it. is the master bad? or a bad line?
answer to either question will give better direction.
replacing master, cut line and throw away
replacing line, cut remove nut and get new nut and flare tube or remove and replace
I have never had a smoothed over brake line fitting not come off with Vice Grip brand vice grips. You do have to get them stupid tight, and then just a little tighter. You can feel when they are going to slip, so stop short of that and tighten, then loosen. Even if the thing isn't moving, that strain will break the bond and it will come loose.
I would otherwise suggest a Michigan wrench (Oxy/Acetelye torch), but around brake fluid and rubber seals is not a great neighborhood to be in.
I would otherwise suggest a Michigan wrench (Oxy/Acetelye torch), but around brake fluid and rubber seals is not a great neighborhood to be in.