sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Can someone please post how much they had to notch out of the panel to clear the motor? I also can’t get the top panel off so having to pull it out to work around it.
Added power rear vent windows in my GX470. First world problem solved! (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter MightyBombJAC
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Probably 1/2" around the current location. Sorry I don't have a picture of it. I just peeled back the headliner in the area trimmed until it cleared with a Dremel and then tucked the headliner back in around it. I can get a pic of it now if that helps.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
A pic would be great. I put the DS panel back in...but about to do the PS. I will have to go back and cut the DS.
Edit....I got it. I just cut slots so the motor is still mostly covered. I didn’t do as good of a job on the DS but it all works!
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Did you guys fuse your relays, or just run straight to battery?
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I am going to put a add-a-fuse on the CIG 10a fuse. Right now I just have it run to one that is always hot.
fuse easy and cheap insurance.
Agreed, just didn't see anyone mentioning it and was a little concerned
I ran mine so that its always hot but still fused. I actually have a battery low voltage cut off so I won't rundown the battery so it was a no brainer to me to have the ability to open and close them any time I wanted.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Is there a way to use one of those cheap 3 pronged switches for these? I have t had a chance to mount my LC switch so for the time being I thought about temp wiring up one of those smaller round switches.
I believe that a momentary 3 way switch like this would work. Amazon product ASIN B01HQQOFHYI have thought about adding this to the back of the truck to be able to open from the front or back.
Sweet DIY.
Mine is wired with the exception of the illumination but it's working intermittently and sometimes only opens one at a time. Also do 1/5 need to be wired for illumination? Thanks!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
If they are opening up at different times you need to swap the wires on one of the motors vs the relay....mine did the same thing and they must be reversed. If they are working intermittently I would check the ground is secure. Mine did the same and once I grounded everything properly I haven’t had an issue.
Thank you! it's weird because sometimes they will work intermittently and sometimes they work together. I will check my ground as that sounds like it may be the issue.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Check the ground first!!
I finally finished my rear quarter window install. Got too busy last summer, but finally had time this last weekend. I was originally going to use the Sienna switch route -- I posted that pic w/ the wiring and the grinding. But, changed my mind. Really didn't want to grind up the switch console plate. I also found that "partially opened" doesn't do much for airflow -- seems like they work best when they're fully opened. And, wanted it to function more like the other windows with the 'auto' open/close function.
So, I wired up a 'window computer' with an old Arduino board and the relay cluster I was going to use anyway. I had both rear plastic panels off anyway because I decided to replace the leaky/shiny window trim, which effectively requires the removal of the quarter class (and easier with the plastic out of the way). Plus, made it much easier to Dremel the opening to make room for the motor.
Anyway, while I was in there, I removed the relatively useless ac inverter and repurposed the case and the pcb to hold my new rear quarter window controller. Now, I just press the repurposed AC power inverter button up front to open and release to close. It takes about 2.5 seconds for the motors to cycle, so the controller knows to apply power long enough to open/close without overdoing it, so I don't have to hold the button down. I didn't have to wire anything up front, and since I already had auxiliary switched fused power in the rear, was able to reuse most of the inverter wiring harness (just had to move a few pins around). Works great, glad this project is finally done, will enjoy for the summer.
I also posted pics of the motor installed, both with and without the plastic trim. I found that I had to create a very small washer to fit inside the motor arm piece that connects to the glass. Otherwise, you can't fully tighten the arm to the glass w/o some play -- the screw bottoms out on the square insert on the glass. Hard to explain. Probably won't make much difference, but I wanted everything snug. Otherwise, the motor is an easy bolt in replacement for the manual arm. And, I didn't measure how much trim to cut off to fit the motor, but it's a bunch. If you do take the trim off, you can remove and then reuse the fabric around the cut edge -- I just reattached the fabric with a hot glue gun, seems to work pretty well.
Someone asked if it should be fused. These motors draw a surprisingly low amount of power -- less than 100ma when running and they spike about 500ma when locked. So, 2 amps is way more than they'll ever need. The relays are really only needed to change polarity -- not to switch the load. It's more about the wiring capacity. I have mine connected to a 10amp fused ignition line in the rear (it runs a few different things), but the wires are 18 gauge, plenty for that fuse. In other words -- make sure the wire supports the fuse. I did change the fuse in the fusebox for the inverter circuit, it's now just 5 amps, still plenty to signal the computer.
So, I've still got both of my test Sienna switches -- have the old style square, and the newer round style. The square was untouched, but the round was ground down to fit the switch slot. If someone wants one, just need to pay for postage from Oregon. I posted a pic of the switch in a prior post.
So, I wired up a 'window computer' with an old Arduino board and the relay cluster I was going to use anyway. I had both rear plastic panels off anyway because I decided to replace the leaky/shiny window trim, which effectively requires the removal of the quarter class (and easier with the plastic out of the way). Plus, made it much easier to Dremel the opening to make room for the motor.
Anyway, while I was in there, I removed the relatively useless ac inverter and repurposed the case and the pcb to hold my new rear quarter window controller. Now, I just press the repurposed AC power inverter button up front to open and release to close. It takes about 2.5 seconds for the motors to cycle, so the controller knows to apply power long enough to open/close without overdoing it, so I don't have to hold the button down. I didn't have to wire anything up front, and since I already had auxiliary switched fused power in the rear, was able to reuse most of the inverter wiring harness (just had to move a few pins around). Works great, glad this project is finally done, will enjoy for the summer.
I also posted pics of the motor installed, both with and without the plastic trim. I found that I had to create a very small washer to fit inside the motor arm piece that connects to the glass. Otherwise, you can't fully tighten the arm to the glass w/o some play -- the screw bottoms out on the square insert on the glass. Hard to explain. Probably won't make much difference, but I wanted everything snug. Otherwise, the motor is an easy bolt in replacement for the manual arm. And, I didn't measure how much trim to cut off to fit the motor, but it's a bunch. If you do take the trim off, you can remove and then reuse the fabric around the cut edge -- I just reattached the fabric with a hot glue gun, seems to work pretty well.
Someone asked if it should be fused. These motors draw a surprisingly low amount of power -- less than 100ma when running and they spike about 500ma when locked. So, 2 amps is way more than they'll ever need. The relays are really only needed to change polarity -- not to switch the load. It's more about the wiring capacity. I have mine connected to a 10amp fused ignition line in the rear (it runs a few different things), but the wires are 18 gauge, plenty for that fuse. In other words -- make sure the wire supports the fuse. I did change the fuse in the fusebox for the inverter circuit, it's now just 5 amps, still plenty to signal the computer.
So, I've still got both of my test Sienna switches -- have the old style square, and the newer round style. The square was untouched, but the round was ground down to fit the switch slot. If someone wants one, just need to pay for postage from Oregon. I posted a pic of the switch in a prior post.
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Very nice work!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I have a few of the Land Cruiser window switches if anyone wants to do this Mod.
how much are you asking?
I might be interested
