AC effectivness at idle

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would the adding of an electric fan solve this problem?

Yes, some. When it's 110 and above I switch my pusher on whenever I am driving in residential a or stop N go on the freeway. It helps some. My AC system is dialed in pretty cold, and I have a very soupped fan clutch along with a water pump pulley that is 15% undersized for a 15% faster pump and fan. On a long freeway cruise when it is 110+ I can get about 50 degree vent temps. Around town it is more like 55-60 degrees.
 
Yes, some. When it's 110 and above I switch my pusher on whenever I am driving in residential a or stop N go on the freeway. It helps some. My AC system is dialed in pretty cold, and I have a very soupped fan clutch along with a water pump pulley that is 15% undersized for a 15% faster pump and fan. On a long freeway cruise when it is 110+ I can get about 50 degree vent temps. Around town it is more like 55-60 degrees.

I purchased a "blue" fan clutch. How do you "soup up" your fan clutch further. Do you expect your water pump will die sooner running it at high speeds like that? Does it even matter if your truck is cooler? By the way, where did you get the smaller pulley?
 
would the adding of an electric fan solve this problem?

An additional fan was fitted to vehicles destined for very hot countries however, the 'base' system has to be working right in the first place.

regards

Dave
 
I purchased a "blue" fan clutch. How do you "soup up" your fan clutch further. Do you expect your water pump will die sooner running it at high speeds like that? Does it even matter if your truck is cooler? By the way, where did you get the smaller pulley?

Deep East Texas (Pineywoods) here. Definitely know what you mean. On the highway...I can get vent temps down to near 40° F when the ambient is below 100°, but in town or idling...if I can get 50-55° I feel pretty lucky. Underhood temps with a Land Cruiser are considerable and the grill opening...is well....less than ample.

To that end I installed a new blue fan clutch. You can 'mod' it by changing the fluid. I installed a pusher fan that does actually help some at low speeds. I have it tapped into the connection that already exists behind the drivers headlight. It comes on at a certain 'pressure' then goes off when the pressure (read temp) goes down.
 
I purchased a "blue" fan clutch. How do you "soup up" your fan clutch further. Do you expect your water pump will die sooner running it at high speeds like that? Does it even matter if your truck is cooler? By the way, where did you get the smaller pulley?

As per ToolsRUs, l replace the silicon fluid with 20-30 thousand CST. Stiffens it up a bunch!
 
As per ToolsRUs, l replace the silicon fluid with 20-30 thousand CST. Stiffens it up a bunch!

Someone on Mud was selling them. Do t think they are currently available.
 
Deep East Texas (Pineywoods) here. Definitely know what you mean. On the highway...I can get vent temps down to near 40° F when the ambient is below 100°, but in town or idling...if I can get 50-55° I feel pretty lucky. Underhood temps with a Land Cruiser are considerable and the grill opening...is well....less than ample.

To that end I installed a new blue fan clutch. You can 'mod' it by changing the fluid. I installed a pusher fan that does actually help some at low speeds. I have it tapped into the connection that already exists behind the drivers headlight. It comes on at a certain 'pressure' then goes off when the pressure (read temp) goes down.

Only problem is you can't run that pusher fan without running the A/C too. If I am overheating I don't want the A/C running!
 
Dont forget to check the belt tension, could be loose if they replaced the compressor in a shop that doesnt check belts.
 
Only problem is you can't run that pusher fan without running the A/C too. If I am overheating I don't want the A/C running!

Right.

But I don't have the pusher to combat 'overheat' conditions. My cooling system is in top shape. The pusher is for low speed enhancement (idle or just off idle). The electric fan is turning many times faster than the engine fan, so in a supplemental way it helps move air across the condenser. The purpose...of course is to remove heat from the condenser, not the radiator.

If you have overheating problems then your cooling system needs attention or you have a timing problem or are running lean.
 
My system was primarily for cooling but also knew from previous experience that the AC should be improved.

The wiring is such that the cooling system is the first priority, by having the 2nd speed of the fan coming on and off with the AC, means by default the cooling system temperature is being controlled (correctly) by the thermostat.

Serious testing after fitting found I have awesome AC, and I can never complete even a short journey without someone asking me to turn it down a little. Having a good AC system means everything needs to be top notch and you should be looking at the cooling system first, otherwise your high temp will have the AC shutting down, this is a factory trick to aid cooling.

regards

Dave
 
Right.

But I don't have the pusher to combat 'overheat' conditions. My cooling system is in top shape. The pusher is for low speed enhancement (idle or just off idle). The electric fan is turning many times faster than the engine fan, so in a supplemental way it helps move air across the condenser. The purpose...of course is to remove heat from the condenser, not the radiator.

If you have overheating problems then your cooling system needs attention or you have a timing problem or are running lean.

Overheating happens on occasion to even the best maintained systems. The pusher fan can help survive a little longer/better if you have the option of running it without the A/C. Been there, done that. It's your choice. You could set it up with both options if you wanted. I wish none of us ever had to worry about it, but MUD history has proven engine temps to be a very popular subject for a reason.
 
Overheating happens on occasion to even the best maintained systems. The pusher fan can help survive a little longer/better if you have the option of running it without the A/C. Been there, done that. It's your choice. You could set it up with both options if you wanted. I wish none of us ever had to worry about it, but MUD history has proven engine temps to be a very popular subject for a reason.

Your point is well taken. I don't have overheating issues with my rig, but for some folks...being able to 'recover' a little quicker by running the pusher (sans A/C) would help them get the A/C going again a bit faster.

Since my Wife drives our L/C about as much as I do, I just need to keep things simple. Hell...she can't figure out what half the buttons are NOW. Darn sure don't want to add any more. So I have elected to set it up to run automatically.

If it were primarily an off-road rig and only I drove it, I would set it up as you suggest. It gets pretty hot here in Texas in the dead of summer (100+ very common) but not as hot as some places out West. A 'properly' working cooling system AND A/C system should work 'satisfactorily' unless you're pulling a trailer up long hills. I readily concede it is 'possible' to create situations where engine temps approach or exceed 226° F and shuts down your A/C, but if everything is in good condition that shouldn't happen often (if ever) for most folks, most places.
 
This has been a great thread for those of us who live in the hotter climates. It is pretty tough to wheel from June through September in Texas.

I have an old LS400 that runs off the old cooling fluid and it can be 112 and it is ice cold in the car. It is the reason I still have it.

My wifes LX470 is the same. The air conditioner blows hot no matter what the outside temperature is.

It must be possible for us to get our old 80 series to cool adequately. I will definitely pursue some of the ideas above and report what I find.

I am reasonably sure we aren't the only ones on Mud who struggle with the air conditioner issues in the 80 series. It would be nice to have a replicable solution everyone can use.
 
It must be possible for us to get our old 80 series to cool adequately. I will definitely pursue some of the ideas above and report what I find.

I am reasonably sure we aren't the only ones on Mud who struggle with the air conditioner issues in the 80 series. It would be nice to have a replicable solution everyone can use.

I do not know if the all electric system is any good for your Texas temps? I have seen 50c (122F) here is Spain, and the electric fan never goes past the first speed for engine temps. I also have it wired so the fans second speed comes on with the AC, it is ridiculously cold, I have to blend in some heat to stop passengers complaining. I have mentioned this many times but it seems there is an 'anti electric' bias on MUD?

You can change the fluid in the clutch, and yes this will drive the fan harder at idle, and unless it uncouples completely when at speed , then the engine will continue to drive it even when going along the highway, in effect throwing fuel away. Yes the alternator see's the load and this uses fuel in the same way the VC unit does but, the amps are drawn at the time the fan is on, when it switches off then it is off. There is no parasitic drag whatsoever, the VC system cannot claim that.

The main complaint is running hot/poor AC at idle or when wheeling, i.e. engine workload high/engine speed slow/vehicle speed slow. An electric fan does not give a toss what speed you (or the engine) are doing, or what the workload is, it simply comes on. If your alternator is up to snuff then it will not be affected by idling, it simply cools the system and the thermostat does the work it is supposed to do i.e. control engine temperatures.

If people insist on keeping the stock fan BLADES, then someone should develop a system that matches the AC compressor clutch, a simple temperature switch activates the clutch and the fan is driven at engine speed, yes you 'almost' have that with the VC but, you need to wait for it to engage, with an electric system it will engage at a set temp, a temp set by you. If I had the time I would put something together, it is not rocket science.

More and more modern vehicles are going all electric, why? Because it is simply more efficient, is there a downside? The honest answer is yes, the system requires more components, this means the possibility of failure is higher but, I did the sums, I made sure that all the components are more than up to the job, the fan is huge and OE (NOT A CHEAP AFTERMAKET OFFERING), and the alternator output was increased. Having worked on cars for years the most common failure is the temperature switches, I simply fitted one for each fan speed, in effect a back up. If both fail.........oh come on, then just wire the fan direct to the battery job and drive home.

Note: Many aftermarket fans are crap, there is so much hype out there it is scary. You have to sift through carefully manipulated figures and will often see through the cheap fan world BS. Go OE or spend decent money on the fan/s. Again fan control, some of the cheap fan controllers are just that...cheap! They will melt at the first sign of heavy use.

You will often see the question, which radiator is best? 10 will say Koyo, 8 for another brand, and 3 offering an alternative cheap brand, guess what? Yes, the OP will often go cheap, I mean.....it seems to work ok right? A couple of years down the line and they are back with overheating issues, you get what you pay for.

If you are thinking about cost, then stop reading, suffer the temps and wait for cooler months of the year to use your car.

Failing that, look through my thread, (link in sig), and stay cool.

regards

Dave
 
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FYI - Had my truck in to be looked at yesterday, they cleaned out the radiator/condesor with a special pressure wash attachment and they claimed it make a huge difference in their shop, it still kicks out on idle at high temps but come back one with only a tiny bit of throttle (just putting it into neutral at the light and letting it rev to 900 helps). They put a dial on the low pressure side and said it was a little low but in spec so I didn't have them add more refrigerant (too high is just as bad as too low). I have to wonder if there is something with the compressor on mine...
 
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