And you do have evidence to counter my claim? Because you have researched, installed, tested and documented that evidence as have I over the last year or so, and you are about to produce it.
No reason for me to test, document, etc. I just know that with cabin temps over 140 degrees and outside temps over 100, I had 65 degree air out the center vents within one minute of starting. I had many people comment about how fast and well it cooled. I've spent 10+ years in automotive A/C, so I some vague notion of how it works.
No reason for me to test, document, etc. I just know that with cabin temps over 140 degrees and outside temps over 100, I had 65 degree air out the center vents within one minute of starting. I had many people comment about how fast and well it cooled. I've spent 10+ years in automotive A/C, so I some vague notion of how it works.
No reason for me to test, document, etc. I just know that with cabin temps over 140 degrees and outside temps over 100, I had 65 degree air out the center vents within one minute of starting. I had many people comment about how fast and well it cooled. I've spent 10+ years in automotive A/C, so I some vague notion of how it works.
May I suggest reading up on the theory and operation of A/C systems for anyone wanting to understand what is really involved. As I mentioned previously, they are complex systems and comprised of individual components working together in a closed loop. Changing the operating parameters not only impacts one component but all. The expansion valve (TXV) will limit refrigerant flow such that the superheated vapour leaving the evaporator is at a predetermined design value or factory setting. That is it. Changing whatever, the TXV only cares about maintains the required superheat. It does this to ensure only vapour enters the compressor. For example, if at idle, system operating parameters are such that potential maximum system capacity is limited by the compressor speed, then passing more air over the condenser will have nil effect. However, if potential maximum system capacity is limited by the condensers' ability to reject the combined input energy of the compressor and energy (heat) absorbed by the evaporator, then increasing airflow through the condenser will increase capacity. This is accomplished by lower compressor discharge pressure. As compressor discharge pressures increase, their capacity decreases and input power increases. I could go on and on, but I found an article comparing A/C system performance at elevated ambient temps, although it is not automotive, the same principles apply. Also, I found a page from a Subara forum describing the operation of the electric radiator/ condenser fans.
I agree that having airflow is just one of the considerations to be factored in. So thanks for posting that up however, we are talking about being stationary i.e. idle. Having said that, the table shows a comparison between the slow speed and high speed operation showing an increase of 5 degree in coolant temperatures, this is exactly what I recorded (and posted) last summer. It also adds credence to my testing during the same period that the airflow versus workload will call for some fan operation whether VC or electric but, this does depend on the vehicle, on the 80 it is necessary for some fan operation at high speed. Followers of my thread will recall I also done some cheapskate ducting, this also netted excellent results. So, yes lots of factors indeed.
Definitely will continue Tools, summers coming around again and this will test the install for a second year.
Always good to check ones figures right? I hate ambiguity, you never know I might have to fess up that it does not work, which I would do without hesitation.
Funny how I can present a simple factual measurable event, and because some do not agree (regardless of evidence), and they follow majority thinking rather than feeling left out (pack mentality), I often wonder if I was wrong............thinking the gene pool of 'the world is flat crowd' had depleted.
I mentioned about AC effectiveness at idle (the thread title), and lo and behold we had posts about how good their AC is when they have just started up, of course this is nonsense. Even bloc explained quite nicely, that after about 30 seconds his clutch is disengaged, he could even grab it with his hand, there is simply not enough 'drive' to pull air though the condenser, and then through the cold radiator, you have to drive to move air or wait for the drive to the fan to re-engage.
The reality is that most of us don't give a damn about all of the technical jargon and comparisons. We are looking for what requires the least amount of cost and effort yielding the best possible result. I have Toytota parts on my vehicle and aftermarket parts. As a rule, I stick to Toyota parts when it comes to the mechanical workings of the vehicle and aftermarket parts on nonmechanical portions....i.e. bumpers, skidplates, sliders, cupholders, etc. Mr. Toyota designed a fabulous vehicle and thought things through very well. I'll go with the stock "Toyota JDM auxillary fan as it bolts right up and wires into the system with 2 pigtail wires" - quote from Flintknapper. In general, simple is usually better! Fewer things to break in the middle of nowhere and replacement parts if you need them. Not knocking anyone's experiments and proof of concept effforts, I just don't have the time or inclination to scew with it.
I just shoved a cheap amazon 14" fan,tight fit, but it does work...Keeps the A/C cooler in stop and go traffic..That's all the proof I needed. Cooler A/C for about an hours work.
and yes I have a modded blue clutch fan.
But your temperature/mileage may vary.....
Actual results will vary for many reasons, including driving conditions and how you drive and maintain your vehicle.....lol
