We are baselining a new 176k mile 1996 LX450. Last weekend we dropped the pan and replaced the filter. Overall looked pretty good, though there was some metallic bits on there.
Because the pan drop only gets maybe half the fluid. The intent was to drain and fill this weekend. The drain plug felt like it was going into soft material, but no issue I could see, and it torqued and sealed up fine last week.
Pull the plug, drain, and install it back with a new crush washer, torqued very gently with a good wrench. It didn’t clinch. Instead it started turning. Great. Searched on here, seems this has happened quite a few times.
In the end after trying to spin it out in different ways, I drilled it partway and then could tap it out.
I managed to drill the drain plug and not the pan.
So now what’s our best bet?
I get mixed signals on if some superceded part number for the pan is still available. Or maybe the pan for the 98-2000 LCs fits(?).
We went to the parts store and looked at options. I found some short M10x1.5 flange bolts that wouldn’t quite fit in the existing hole. So I re-tapped it for m10x1.5 and a new bolt threaded in. I torqued it to 12ft-lb which was enough to crush the washer. Cleaned it all up and put it back together with red FIPG.
If it was an aluminum pan and there was more material I’d use a time sert insert to make new threads. In this case I don’t know how much we can even really drill out of tap in that remaining material.
I don’t weld. I don’t really know who/where to go. I’d prefer to fix myself.
What has anyone else done to repair a stripped transmission drain plug thread?
I think a 7/16-14 flange bolt might be ideal over an M12 or 1/2, but are harder to find. Any thoughts/ideas/experiences?
Is any variant of this pan that fits a 1996 still available?
Thanks!
Because the pan drop only gets maybe half the fluid. The intent was to drain and fill this weekend. The drain plug felt like it was going into soft material, but no issue I could see, and it torqued and sealed up fine last week.
Pull the plug, drain, and install it back with a new crush washer, torqued very gently with a good wrench. It didn’t clinch. Instead it started turning. Great. Searched on here, seems this has happened quite a few times.
In the end after trying to spin it out in different ways, I drilled it partway and then could tap it out.
I managed to drill the drain plug and not the pan.
So now what’s our best bet?
I get mixed signals on if some superceded part number for the pan is still available. Or maybe the pan for the 98-2000 LCs fits(?).
We went to the parts store and looked at options. I found some short M10x1.5 flange bolts that wouldn’t quite fit in the existing hole. So I re-tapped it for m10x1.5 and a new bolt threaded in. I torqued it to 12ft-lb which was enough to crush the washer. Cleaned it all up and put it back together with red FIPG.
If it was an aluminum pan and there was more material I’d use a time sert insert to make new threads. In this case I don’t know how much we can even really drill out of tap in that remaining material.
I don’t weld. I don’t really know who/where to go. I’d prefer to fix myself.
What has anyone else done to repair a stripped transmission drain plug thread?
I think a 7/16-14 flange bolt might be ideal over an M12 or 1/2, but are harder to find. Any thoughts/ideas/experiences?
Is any variant of this pan that fits a 1996 still available?
Thanks!